By Gary Bennett
This article appears in the May 11, 2023, edition of the Frederick News Post’s “72 Hours” insert.
If you are looking for a fun weekend excursion that combines small town strolling with an “ocean” cruise to get you there, you can do no better than booking a ride on the Cape May/Lewes Ferry across Delaware Bay and exploring the charming, historic town of Cape May, New Jersey.
Technically, you won’t be cruising on the ocean, but you’ll be very close. Your route across Delaware Bay borders the Atlantic Ocean but in the more protected waters of the bay and closer to shore. Cruising on a smaller vessel across calmer waters provides several advantages.
Advantages of small-scale cruising
You’ll get the same sense of carefree, wind-in-your hair adventure but without the multi-day or week-long time commitment that an Atlantic Ocean cruise up or down the East coast will cost you. You’ll get the same sense of wonder and personal insignificance (a good thing) that comes when you can see nothing but water. You’ll have smaller crowds and a lack of scheduled activities that so many of us crave. You’ll definitely feel like you’re not missing anything.
These are just a few of the reasons the Cape May/Lewes Ferry has earned its reputation as the “best boat ride in America.” This is a phrase they proudly use in their branding, and I believe it.
As an added bonus, you’ll also be able to take your car along for the trip!
There will be no need for expensive air fares or rental cars before or after this cruise. The Cape May/Lewes Ferry is an essential route from Virginia, Maryland and points South up the East coast to New York and New England. Thousands of workers and day-trippers use the ferry every day on one of its many roundtrips. It beats I-95 and the New Jersey Turnpike by a country mile. I’ll never take either of these clogged routes again to New York City or beyond.
About the ferry
The Cape May/Lewes Ferry is actually three ferries that take passengers and their vehicles (if they wish) from the village of Lewes, Delaware at the mouth of Delaware Bay to the town of Cape May, New Jersey on that little peninsula that sticks out like a human appendix on the southern shore of New Jersey. And back again, of course.
Reservations are required. I recommend making them months in advance. The ferry is very popular but it does run about 10 round trips from sun up to sun down every single day. Prices can vary depending on the season and your type of vehicle, but the average price is around $50-$60 for a round trip. There are modest discounts for seniors, children, AAA members, the military and first responders. Well behaved pets are allowed, too.
You can book your tickets and gather more information at https://www.cmlf.com/.
My wife and I have taken this cruise a few times, and each time has been absolutely delightful. Of course, it helps if you can cruise during the summer months so you can stand outside, do your best hands-free pose on the Titanic bow, Jack and Rose style, and feel the cooling ocean and bay breezes rushing by. From this vantage point, the sense of speed and covering huge chunks of territory is quite palpable.
The cruise across Delaware Bay itself takes only about an hour and a half to cover the 17 or so nautical miles from terminal to terminal, pending bay conditions. But you also need to figure in the time it takes to get to the terminal and waiting for your ship to come in, so to speak.
From Frederick, the departure terminal at Lewes, Delaware is a pleasant three-hour car ride, across the Chesapeake Bay and along the flat lands of Maryland’s Eastern shore and Delaware to Lewes. You literally can’t miss Lewes unless you drive your car into the bay. (If you do, you’ve gone too far.)
Boarding
Once you get to the terminal in Lewes, you’ll be glad to know they have the boarding process down to a science.
Nevertheless, I recommend you get to the terminal an hour or so before your appointed departure time so you can prepare to board and enjoy the many amenities. Be sure to watch a ferry or two come in to get a feel for the choreography. It helps to build anticipation too! The terminals in Cape May and Lewes are both charming and functional, complete with restaurants, gift shops, historical information, play areas for the kids, pleasant walking areas, occasional outdoor entertainment and wonderful breezes.
First, you’ll drive up to the toll booth, present your reservation and be issued a ticket. Then you’ll be directed to the staging area where you’ll queue up in numbered lanes according to your arrival time and other factors such as vehicle size. Next, you can depart your vehicle and enjoy the amenities or stay with your car. I highly recommend you leave your vehicle behind and head for the terminal for all the fun.
Finally, about 20 minutes prior to boarding, you’ll be called back to your vehicle to prepare to board. Once on the ferry, you’ll be directed to park “nose to tail” with other vehicles on the lower deck, depart your vehicle and head upstairs to enjoy your cruise.
Size doesn’t matter
Don’t worry about the size of your vehicle. The ferry can accommodate vehicles as large as RVs, tour buses and even large tractor trailers carrying interstate cargo. Your heavy-duty pick-up or plus-size SUV will only engender yawns from the helpful staff. Bikes and motorcycles are welcome, too.
Having your vehicle along is handy if you plan to venture up to Atlantic City for gambling or a show or points further North, but it’s not necessary. The ferry drops you off just a short walk from historic Cape May along the Cape May Canal. Shuttles are also available.
During our last trip, we headed up to Atlantic City to see Boz Scaggs in concert for my wife’s birthday, but we saw many folks with just their bicycles along for cycling around Cape May, and many others who had nothing with them but their smiles. They obviously planned to walk around Cape May and return to Lewes on a later cruise. We even saw some unaccompanied teenagers dressed for a day at the beach.
On the ferry
On board, you will enjoy snacks and light fare from the grab and go areas and beer, wine, cocktails and soft drinks from the outdoor Lido bars.
Numerous first-come, first-served indoor and outdoor seating options abound, but I highly recommend standing for your hour and a half voyage outside, (if you can and weather-permitting) so you can easily move around the vessel to enjoy different sightseeing vantage points. You’ll enjoy spotting far away lighthouses, picturesque harbors, bobbing buoys, strange-looking seabirds, and humongous ocean-going vessels.
If you’re lucky you might even spot dolphins or whales playing in the sun or the ominous fin of a shark protruding from the water. The vessels are safe and smooth-sailing, but you’ll still want to hold onto the railings as you cut swiftly through the water.
Cape May
Cape May, New Jersey is known for its stunning homes that go back to the Victorian era, charming, walkable streets and pristine beaches on Delaware Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. It has the distinction of being the oldest seaside resort in America. Be sure to visit the Cape May Lighthouse and the World War II Lookout Tower on Cape May Point and the Fisherman’s Memorial on Cape May Harbor.
Lewes
Lewes, Delaware is a small but growing town that was one of the earliest founded towns in America. It is home to amazing views of the Atlantic Ocean and numerous waterfront dining establishment. It is well worth getting up early to watch the sun come up in the East over the Atlantic.