By Gary Bennett
It was the beginning of summer here in the “land of pleasant living” in 2022, and the heat was already oppressive. My wife and I wanted to get away to somewhere with bright, 70-degree days and cool, 50-degree nights. In other words, we wanted a Maryland fall but with beaches and ocean.
We’ve tried the Shenandoah Valley and the Poconos. Both are great, of course, but can’t deliver on beaches and ocean. Ocean City has the beaches and ocean but not the weather (or slower pace) that we wanted. Enter our Maine discussion! We decided to spend a week exploring the state.
First, let’s get our bearings. Maine is the northeastern-most U.S. state and the largest (by far) but least populated of the New England states. Maine is well known for many things: its jagged, rocky coastline; sandy beaches like Old Orchard and Ogunquit; colorful maritime history; picturesque lighthouses; fresh, tasty lobsters; enormous moose; seemingly never-ending white pine trees; Mount Katahdin, one end of the Appalachian Trail; and untouched natural areas like Acadia National Park.
We went into this trip wondering why one of Maine’s nicknames is “vacationland,” but after a few days, we wondered no more. Spending a week in Maine was perhaps the most satisfying vacation we’ve taken. Everything was just so perfect: friendly people, charming accents, quirky places with Native American-inspired names, remarkably fresh food, breathtaking scenery and a satisfyingly slow pace of life.
We set off for Maine in our comfy SUV in June 2022, heading up the East Coast on I-95 to make good time. We had already booked two stops at cozy bed and breakfasts in Kennebunk and Bar Harbor. Since our first Maine stop, Kennebunk, is about 9 hours driving time from Frederick, we decided to stay overnight in New York City and take in a Broadway show. The next day, we got up early and headed north into coolers temps.
Driving close to the coast, we passed the heavily industrial Connecticut cities of Stamford, Bridgeport and New Haven, home to Yale University. Cruising into watery Rhode Island, we passed by the picturesque state capital of Providence. We carefully made our way around metropolitan Boston and up the coast of New Hampshire, where we finally started to see traffic and the pace of life slow. We departed I-95, no longer wishing to make time, in favor of Route 1 to take in the sights, sounds and scents of small-town life.
The drive through New Hampshire only takes about an hour before you arrive in Maine, perfectly nicknamed on welcome signs as the Pine Tree State.
In another 30 minutes, we were in Kennebunk. Be advised there’s also a Kennebunkport, right on the ocean, of course, and made famous during two presidencies as the summer home of the Bushes. All told, it was a relatively easy 5-hour drive from New York City to Kennebunk.
In Kennebunk, we stayed in a lovely bed and breakfast called The Tides, located right across from Goose Rocks Beach, which is technically part of Kennebunkport and one of the best sandy beaches you’ll find on the Maine coast. We enjoyed almost three miles of soft, white sandy beach that offered incredible views of the Atlantic and some small offshore islands. The tidal pools that form are also a hit during the summer, making a great place to float along in a natural lazy river. This beach is about as family-friendly as it gets in the state and is a favorite to spend time on during the warmer months.
Our three days in Kennebunk flew by as we enjoyed the beach, strolling the beautiful little village and eating at cozy restaurants. As you might imagine, we didn’t starve. We delighted in delicious lobster rolls, wonderful blueberry pancakes with fresh homemade maple syrup tapped from nearby trees and, surprisingly, Texas-sized steaks and fillets. We rented bikes for a lovely excursion up the beach and through neighboring villages, making sure to get back in time to take in a startlingly red “strawberry” moonrise over the ocean at dusk (we’d wondered why folks were traipsing over to the beach with their flashlights in hand).
In Old Orchard Beach, just up the road from Kennebunk, we spent a day at New England’s largest beachfront amusement park, Palace Playland. It was like taking a step back in time. At this family-owned attraction, we enjoyed the old wooden roller coasters, midway-style rides, water slides, carnival games and Maine’s largest arcade. Exhausted after a day in the bright sun cooled by ocean breezes, we decamped back to our friendly Kennebunk B&B to plan our morning departure to Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park.
On our way, we couldn’t help but stop at Taste of Maine restaurant in Woolwich, about an hour from Kennebunk. There, we found two of the world’s largest lobsters waiting for us. An inflatable lobster, measuring 70 feet long and 12 feet tall, greeted us from the roof. And the “world’s largest lobster roll,” at 2-feet long and packed with over a pound and half of lobster meat, greeted us inside. We didn’t partake, but the views from the back deck were so incredible, we lingered longer than we should have. This place is a must-visit when in the area.
Bar Harbor is about 3 hours northeast of Kennebunk and 2 hours from Woolwich. Sunrise in the summer is at about 4:45 a.m., which can take a little getting used to, but the air is so crisp and cool, you might not mind rising early.
Bar Harbor is a resort town of about 5,000 people that swells to many times that in the summer. Think Ocean City without the boardwalk or crowds. Still, it didn’t seem crowded there when we visited.
Bar Harbor is synonymous with great wealth. Many summer mansions dot the town, and numerous Rockefellers were born here.
We enjoyed strolling the quaint but hilly town while window shopping and reading menu boards, gazing out toward the Atlantic at the many little islands that seem to stand sentinel to the mainland, and walking across the bay. That’s right! Bar Harbor gets its name from a sand and gravel bar that is only visible at low tide, allowing tourists, day trippers, picnickers and hikers to wander about a mile across the bay to lovely Bar Island. It’s not often you get to explore the sea bottom, so we made that trip a few times.
Bar Harbor is also home to a large portion of Acadia National Park, which includes Cadillac Mountain, the highest point in Hancock County. It’s Maine’s only national park and, naturally, the easternmost in the U.S. We took a pleasant one-day excursion up Cadillac Mountain and enjoyed breathtaking views of the Atlantic, numerous tidal pools carved out among the granite rocks and impossibly green forests. A network of carriage roads — a gift from John D. Rockefeller — meanders throughout Acadia, making it easy to get around.
Don’t forget to try the Winter Harbor/Bar Harbor Ferry, one of the best boat tours in Maine. While technically a ferry that shuttles folks back and forth between Winter Harbor to the north and Bar Harbor, this ride on a converted lobster boat is also a scenic tour. For 45 minutes, you get a guided tour of Frenchman’s Bay and several of the islands and landmarks that occupy it between the two towns. Along the way, you’ll get an up-close look at the awesome cliffs of Ironbound Island, the Porcupine Islands, Winter Harbor Lighthouse and usually some wildlife — ocean sunfish, seals, porpoises, waterfowl and even the occasional whale.
There is so much we didn’t see during our weeklong visit to Maine that we can’t wait to go back. After all, Maine is a relatively large state and we stayed mostly “down east,” as the locals say.
Prepare to be spellbound if you take our suggestion and make Maine your next summer vacation destination.
Gary Bennett is a longtime Frederick resident who spends his time hiking, biking, volunteering and providing childcare for grandchildren. He is married and retired from his career as a nonprofit marketing executive.