If you are looking for a fun weekend excursion that combines small town strolling with an “ocean” cruise to get you there, you can do no better than booking a ride on the Cape May/Lewes Ferry across Delaware Bay and exploring the charming, historic town of Cape May, New Jersey.
Technically, you won’t be cruising on the ocean, but you’ll be very close. Your route across Delaware Bay borders the Atlantic Ocean but in the more protected waters of the bay and closer to shore. Cruising on a smaller vessel across calmer waters provides several advantages.
Advantages of small-scale cruising
You’ll get the same sense of carefree, wind-in-your hair adventure but without the multi-day or week-long time commitment that an Atlantic Ocean cruise up or down the East coast will cost you. You’ll get the same sense of wonder and personal insignificance (a good thing) that comes when you can see nothing but water. You’ll have smaller crowds and a lack of scheduled activities that so many of us crave. You’ll definitely feel like you’re not missing anything.
These are just a few of the reasons the Cape May/Lewes Ferry has earned its reputation as the “best boat ride in America.” This is a phrase they proudly use in their branding, and I believe it.
As an added bonus, you’ll also be able to take your car along for the trip!
There will be no need for expensive air fares or rental cars before or after this cruise. The Cape May/Lewes Ferry is an essential route from Virginia, Maryland and points South up the East coast to New York and New England. Thousands of workers and day-trippers use the ferry every day on one of its many roundtrips. It beats I-95 and the New Jersey Turnpike by a country mile. I’ll never take either of these clogged routes again to New York City or beyond.
About the ferry
The Cape May/Lewes Ferry is actually three ferries that take passengers and their vehicles (if they wish) from the village of Lewes, Delaware at the mouth of Delaware Bay to the town of Cape May, New Jersey on that little peninsula that sticks out like a human appendix on the southern shore of New Jersey. And back again, of course.
Reservations are required. I recommend making them months in advance. The ferry is very popular but it does run about 10 round trips from sun up to sun down every single day. Prices can vary depending on the season and your type of vehicle, but the average price is around $50-$60 for a round trip. There are modest discounts for seniors, children, AAA members, the military and first responders. Well behaved pets are allowed, too.
My wife and I have taken this cruise a few times, and each time has been absolutely delightful. Of course, it helps if you can cruise during the summer months so you can stand outside, do your best hands-free pose on the Titanic bow, Jack and Rose style, and feel the cooling ocean and bay breezes rushing by. From this vantage point, the sense of speed and covering huge chunks of territory is quite palpable.
The cruise across Delaware Bay itself takes only about an hour and a half to cover the 17 or so nautical miles from terminal to terminal, pending bay conditions. But you also need to figure in the time it takes to get to the terminal and waiting for your ship to come in, so to speak.
From Frederick, the departure terminal at Lewes, Delaware is a pleasant three-hour car ride, across the Chesapeake Bay and along the flat lands of Maryland’s Eastern shore and Delaware to Lewes. You literally can’t miss Lewes unless you drive your car into the bay. (If you do, you’ve gone too far.)
Boarding
Once you get to the terminal in Lewes, you’ll be glad to know they have the boarding process down to a science.
Nevertheless, I recommend you get to the terminal an hour or so before your appointed departure time so you can prepare to board and enjoy the many amenities. Be sure to watch a ferry or two come in to get a feel for the choreography. It helps to build anticipation too! The terminals in Cape May and Lewes are both charming and functional, complete with restaurants, gift shops, historical information, play areas for the kids, pleasant walking areas, occasional outdoor entertainment and wonderful breezes.
The ferry terminal at Cape May is imposing but you’ll have no trouble.
First, you’ll drive up to the toll booth, present your reservation and be issued a ticket. Then you’ll be directed to the staging area where you’ll queue up in numbered lanes according to your arrival time and other factors such as vehicle size. Next, you can depart your vehicle and enjoy the amenities or stay with your car. I highly recommend you leave your vehicle behind and head for the terminal for all the fun.
Finally, about 20 minutes prior to boarding, you’ll be called back to your vehicle to prepare to board. Once on the ferry, you’ll be directed to park “nose to tail” with other vehicles on the lower deck, depart your vehicle and head upstairs to enjoy your cruise.
Size doesn’t matter
Don’t worry about the size of your vehicle. The ferry can accommodate vehicles as large as RVs, tour buses and even large tractor trailers carrying interstate cargo. Your heavy-duty pick-up or plus-size SUV will only engender yawns from the helpful staff. Bikes and motorcycles are welcome, too.
Having your vehicle along is handy if you plan to venture up to Atlantic City for gambling or a show or points further North, but it’s not necessary. The ferry drops you off just a short walk from historic Cape May along the Cape May Canal. Shuttles are also available.
During our last trip, we headed up to Atlantic City to see Boz Scaggs in concert for my wife’s birthday, but we saw many folks with just their bicycles along for cycling around Cape May, and many others who had nothing with them but their smiles. They obviously planned to walk around Cape May and return to Lewes on a later cruise. We even saw some unaccompanied teenagers dressed for a day at the beach.
On the ferry
On board, you will enjoy snacks and light fare from the grab and go areas and beer, wine, cocktails and soft drinks from the outdoor Lido bars.
Numerous first-come, first-served indoor and outdoor seating options abound, but I highly recommend standing for your hour and a half voyage outside, (if you can and weather-permitting) so you can easily move around the vessel to enjoy different sightseeing vantage points. You’ll enjoy spotting far away lighthouses, picturesque harbors, bobbing buoys, strange-looking seabirds, and humongous ocean-going vessels.
Ellen Bennett enjoying ocean spay and bay breezes.
If you’re lucky you might even spot dolphins or whales playing in the sun or the ominous fin of a shark protruding from the water. The vessels are safe and smooth-sailing, but you’ll still want to hold onto the railings as you cut swiftly through the water.
Cape May
Cape May, New Jersey is known for its stunning homes that go back to the Victorian era, charming, walkable streets and pristine beaches on Delaware Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. It has the distinction of being the oldest seaside resort in America. Be sure to visit the Cape May Lighthouse and the World War II Lookout Tower on Cape May Point and the Fisherman’s Memorial on Cape May Harbor.
Lewes
Lewes, Delaware is a small but growing town that was one of the earliest founded towns in America. It is home to amazing views of the Atlantic Ocean and numerous waterfront dining establishment. It is well worth getting up early to watch the sun come up in the East over the Atlantic.
Relive the powerhouse music that shaped a generation with Neil Berg’s The 60’s: Peace, Love & Rock N’ Roll, rolling into Frederick’s Weinberg Center on April 21 at 8:00 pm. Tickets are still available.
Composer/producer/arranger/musician Neil Berg returns to Frederick with his new production that takes us on a musical trip to the stormy, counterculture 60’s. Berg and his talented troupe of musicians last wowed Frederick audiences in October 2021 with his show 50 Years of Rock N’ Roll.
In this new production, Berg recounts the 60’s through music and stories, culminating with a celebration of the historic Woodstock concert in 1969. If you didn’t make it to Woodstock like me (I was only 12) but remember all the wonderful music wafting down the hall from your big sister’s jukebox, you’ll not want to miss this rollicking evening.
Berg is privy to many behind-the-scenes stories from Woodstock due to his personal friendship with Michael Lang, the original organizer and producer of the iconic event.
“Michael brought me into his New York City office about 15 years ago to discuss the possibility of writing a Broadway musical about Woodstock—stories about unknown artists like Bert Sommer, who was in the Broadway musical Hair, and who was a solo artist at Woodstock and got the first standing ovation.”
That idea morphed into The 60’s: Peace, Love & Rock N’ Roll when Berg realized there are many more stories to tell and music to play that had nothing to do with Woodstock. Berg is not shy about sharing these tales.
Berg promises we’ll hear the story of Joni Mitchell’s song Woodstock, and her relationship to Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young, who were famously playing only their second concert ever in public. We’ll learn about the famous bands that were invited to play, but did not. We’ll hear about Carlos Santana playing his entire Woodstock set tripping on LSD given to him by Jerry Garcia of the Grateful Dead.
And don’t forget the music! Berg and his merry band of Broadway performers will cover the music of Woodstock acts Richie Havens, Country Joe McDonald, The Band, Canned Heat, Creedence Clearwater Revival, Jefferson Airplane, Santana, Sly and the Family Stone, The Who, Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin and Joe Cocker. (Lineup is subject to change.)
A who’s who of 60’s rockers who did not perform at Woodstock will be covered too: Bob Dylan, Four Seasons, Beach Boys, Beatles, Rolling Stones, James Brown, Tom Jones, Aretha Franklin, Monkees, Neil Diamond, Cream, Mamas and the Papas, Otis Redding, Doors, Shirelles, Tina Turner, Frank Sinatra, Elvis Presley, Led Zeppelin and more.
For everyone who wanted to be at Woodstock but wasn’t, The 60’s: Peace, Love and Rock N’ Roll will make you feel like you are there.
Frederick welcomes another icon of ‘70s classic rock to the Weinberg Center when Three Dog Night visits on Sunday, April 16 at 6 pm. Along with recent visits from Gordon Lightfoot, The Temptations, Spinners and America, an evening of music from Three Dog Night promises to take we aging baby boomers back to our teens and 20s. Tickets are still available at https://weinbergcenter.org/.
Thinking back to the ‘70s, it seems that Three Dog Night was always on the radio. Their music didn’t have the hard-diving focus of other ‘70s rock bands like The Rolling Stones, Led Zeppelin, AC/DC, Black Sabbath or even Kiss. And they sure didn’t have the thoughtful lyrics and musicality of The Eagles, The Who, Chicago or Queen. They fit somewhere in the pleasant middle with other pop-oriented bands like The Guess Who and Doobie Brothers.
They were certainly commercially successful. From 1969 to 1974 they racked up 21 Billboard top 40 hits including three number ones. No other group was as successful during that span. If you came of age in the ‘70s and listened to the radio at all, chances are very good you will recognize most of Three Dog Night’s hits. Among the favorites sure to be played on April 16 are the three number ones: Mama Told Me Not to Come (#1 in 1970), Joy to the World (#1 in 1971) and Black and White (#1 in 1972).
Mama Told Me Not to Come tells the funny story of the strangest party “there could ever be.” Joy to the World is a simple song espousing the pure joy of being alive. It is known for its strange opening line “Jeremiah was a bullfrog.” Black and White is a socially-responsible song celebrating the end of racial segregation in schools.
Other top hits include my personal favorite Shambala (#3 in 1973), which uses a solid groove to tell the story of a mystical place where love and kindness abound, The Show Must Go On (#3 in 1974), An Old Fashioned Love Song (#4 in 1971), Easy to be Hard (#4 in 1969), One (#5 in 1969), Never Been to Spain (#5 in 1971), Liar (#7 in 1971) and Eli’s Coming (#10 in 1969).
One of the main appeals of Three Dog Night is that each of their songs sound so different. This is because, like the Beatles before them, they decided to feature all three lead singers pretty much equally among their songs. Lead singers Danny Hutton, Chuck Negron and Cory Wells (also the founders of Three Dog Night) had three very different voices and singing styles. Today, only Hutton remains. In 1985, Negron suffered a relapse into drug addiction and was fired from the group. Wells died in 2015 at age 74.
Unlike most of the rock bands of the ‘70s, Three Dog Night did not write their own songs. They left that work to others. This was not unusual in the music business prior to the arrival of the Beatles in the ‘60s. Instead, Three Dog Night became masters at picking out songs that were right for them and commercially appealing. They were responsible for introducing the world to many up and coming songwriters that are well known today: Randy Newman (Mama Told Me Not to Come), Paul Williams (An Old Fashioned Love Song), and Hoyt Axton (Joy to the World, Never Been to Spain).
There has always been some controversy on what Three Dog Night’s name actually means. Some believe Danny Hutton’s girlfriend suggested the name after reading about aboriginal Australians who on particularly cold nights slept with three dogs to keep warm instead of one or two. An arranger at Warner Brothers disputes this and says he came up with the name. Either way, the phrase has become part of the American lexicon to describe an especially cold night.
Hopefully, Danny Hutton will clear this up once and for all when he visits Frederick on April 6.
I felt at the time and still do that Frederick County has outgrown this outdated policing model and that it does not serve us well.
It wasn’t hard to come to this conclusion after listening to repeated political sniping from Sheriff Chuck Jenkins and his challenger and Jenkins’ ongoing railing against a majority of the county’s population, which he is sworn to protect.
I asked at the time “Do we really want elective politics playing a day-to-day role in professional law enforcement?”
Last week our sheriff was indicted on five counts of conspiring and making false statements to illegally acquire machine guns.
And what did Jenkins allegedly receive in return for helping his friend get those machine guns? Political support, of course.
I hate to say I told you so but this was not difficult to see coming. Sheriffs are all-powerful constitutional animals. They answer to virtually no one, that is, until they get caught.
It doesn’t have to be this way. We shouldn’t have our county’s top law enforcement officer constantly pandering to their political base, begging for money, pushing back against political enemies and looking for political favors.
It doesn’t matter that Jenkins is a Republican. I’m not naïve enough to think a democrat wouldn’t do the very same thing.
I have no idea if the charges will stick. It doesn’t matter. The damage has been done.
He is at least guilty of extremely poor judgement. How he can take his broken law and order persona into the office each day and look his deputies in the eye is beyond me. But then again, the shameless chutzpa so many politicians posses always surprises me.
While the Maryland Constitution requires each county to have a sheriff, state statutes allow counties and municipalities to form local police departments. This is the path Frederick County needs to start down. I realize this was not a priority for our new county executive or the citizens advising her, but we can’t delay. The time is now.
I call on the county council and county executive to begin studying the costs and benefits of creating a professional county police department.
I love a rainy day, and just like Eddie Rabbitt, a rainy night even more. April showers that gently tap, tap, tap on your window pane is one of the great joys in life, and like most things, music makes it even better.
Here are my top 10 classic rainy-day songs that are sure to brighten your day, figuratively speaking, of course. Rain is a handy metaphor for lost love, hard times, and every now and then, surprising happiness. These songs don’t disappoint.
Can you add to this list?
10. Here Comes the Rain Again Eurythmics
Poppy, syncopated and wistful. Extra points for the beginning that brings to mind actual raindrops.
“Falling on my head like a memory, falling on my head like a new emotion.”
9. I Made It Through the Rain Barry Manilow
The king of syrupy pop writes movingly about tough times and how to overcome them.
“And found myself respected, by the others who, got rained on too, and made it through.”
8. Who’ll Stop the Rain CCR
First of two Credence Clearwater Revival classics about rain. How’d they do that? A true rocker with a cool groove.
“Long as I remember, rain been coming down, clouds of mystery pouring, confusion on the ground.”
7. It Never Rains in Southern California Albert Hammond
Achingly sad song about making a devastatingly poor life choice.
“Got onboard a westbound 747, didn’t think before deciding what to. Don’t tell ‘em how you found me, don’t tell ‘em how you found me, give me a break, give me a break.”
6. I Wish It Would Rain Down Phil Collins
A slow, moody and beautiful song about lost love that’s never coming back with the painful knowledge that you caused it.
“You said you didn’t need me in your life, I guess you were right.”
5. Rain Beatles
A cooler-than-you, slow jam love letter to actual precipitation by the greatest band of all time. Extra points for being an actual Beatles music video!
“I can show you, when it starts to rain, everything’s the same, I can show you.”
4. Rhythm of the Rain Cascades
A 60’s classic about lost love that starts with a bang — a thunderclap and actual rain. A happy tune that belies the subject.
“Listen to the rhythm of the falling rain, telling me just what a fool I’ve been.”
3. Rainy Days and Mondays Carpenters
This quintessentially sad rainy-day song is a painful cry for help from such a beautiful voice.
“What I’ve got they used to call the blues, nothing is really wrong, feeling like I don’t belong, walking around, some kind of lonely clown.”
2. Have You Ever Seen the Rain CCR
A cosmic metaphor for things that aren’t quite what they seem. Classic guitar work with John Fogarty lending his unmistakable whiskey-rock voice.
“Someone told me long ago, there’s a calm before the storm, I know, it’s been coming for some time.”
Rainy Night in Georgia Brook Benton
This obscure artist hit it out of the park in 1970 with this hauntingly beautiful, soulful ballad about nothing going right. The best rainy-day song ever, IMHO!
“Hoverin’ by my suitcase, trying to find a warm place to spend the night, heavy rain fallin’, seems I hear your voice callin’, and I think it’s raining all over the world.”
My father-in-law thought he was a pretty good driver. After all, he’d been on the road for over 60 years. Well into his 80s, Pop chugged off from Cumberland every Monday morning to volunteer at a Baptist church camp on South Mountain in Frederick County. Sure, there were some minor fender benders along the way and few other close calls, but nothing serious.
Then one day he had a very serious accident near Boonsboro that injured him and totaled two cars. Thankfully the other driver was not badly hurt. No one was found at fault because witnesses provided differing accounts. After a lengthy hospital stay and some rehab, we came to learn that Pop was having difficulty turning his head to check blind spots. His slowing reflexes also made it difficult to react to changing traffic conditions and to move his foot from accelerator to brake quickly.
Even after all this, he was determined to return to the road, and he did, for a time. Much to our surprise, no authorities like the police, MVA or insurance company came for his keys. His daughters tried to talk him into giving up driving voluntarily, but he would not hear of it. Pop lived in a rural area with family far away and little to no public transportation options. Fiercely independent, he couldn’t imagine life without a car or asking neighbors for help.
Increasingly worried for his and others’ safety and unable to sway him, the daughters did what loving children do all over the country every day—they simply took away his keys.
In retrospect, this was not the thing to do. He was mad as a hornet, uncharacteristically so, and surprisingly resourceful. Pop simply got a ride to the dealership with title in hand and got another set of keys made. He continued driving but now with a mistrust of family that I’m not sure ever completely healed.
Our story is not unique. This scenario plays out across the country every day. For families everywhere, when to prevent an aging loved one from driving and possibly injuring themselves or others is a vexing issue.
For older adults, giving up the car keys means giving up independence and freedom of movement. They can no longer run to the hardware store on a whim or to that favorite restaurant for a quick bite. In their minds, they become beholden to others. They might become socially isolated. No one wants that for a loved one.
For my father-in-law, the answer came in the form of a hired companion and helper who was willing to take him where he wanted to go, when he wanted to go there. It helped that he liked this person and that she was doing her job, not doling out charity. It also helped that this gentle, giving man came to see that he could now donate his car to a someone more in need than him.
Of course, not every far-away family has the resources to hire a companion for their elderly loved one. That is why it is imperative to look for driving danger signs, research the alternative resources available and plan to have “the talk” long before it is needed.
Older Driver Danger Signs
First, ask neighbors if they have witnessed any issues with your loved one’s driving. Many scrapes and bumps can come from parking in one’s own driveway or garage.
Next, check for any driving citations or insurance notices that may have come in the mail.
Also be sure to check the car over every time you visit for new bumps, dents and scratches.
Above all, if possible, take a ride with your loved one to see for yourself how they drive.
Do they seem tentative or anxious, especially at night or in the rain?
Are they able to go the speed limit and not too fast or slow?
Do they make sudden turns or lane shifts?
Are they seeing and following road signs?
Do they forget where they are going or take a long and circuitous route getting there?
Do they have trouble turning their head or lifting their feet?
Can they stay in their lane?
Are they leaving ample space between themselves and other cars?
Do they have trouble with straight-in parking?
If you witness some of these actions on the same trip or one or two over many trips, it may be time for the talk.
Planning for the “Talk”
Even if your loved one is driving well right now, it doesn’t hurt to do your research and make plans for when they aren’t. If you’re one of the lucky ones, your loved one may give up driving on their own, especially after an accident or near miss. But, if you’re like most of us, you’ll have to make a strong but compassionate case for them to give up driving. It also doesn’t hurt to present some attractive options to take its place.
Introduce the driving conversation gradually over time so your loved one knows it is a concern.
Avoid confrontation and be positive and supportive. Try to find a solution together.
Gently remind them other drivers’ well-being and safety is at stake, not just your loved one’s.
Learn about your loved one’s overall transportation needs. You may be surprised to find that their use of the car is minor and manageable.
Remind your loved one how expensive it is to keep a car, and without it, how all that saved money can be used for other transportation options.
Understand the available community resources. Even if public transportation is scarce, there could be non-profits and religious or community organizations that will transport your loved one free of charge or for a nominal cost you could pay ahead of time.
Check with loved one’s friends, neighbors and colleagues to see if they would be willing to help or know of someone who could.
Check with the local senior services agency for no- and low-cost options.
If resources allow, hire a helper who can also be a driver. This doesn’t have to be an all-day thing. This person could come for just a few hours a day to help with appointments and errands.
Help your loved one learn to use a ridesharing app or how to call a cab.
Take advantage of drug, meal and grocery delivery.
Self-awareness is Key
If your loved one is still a decent driver and they are willing, you can help them take steps to minimize risks and improve their driving.
Ensure they have regular check-ups to test sight, hearing, muscle flexibility and mental acuity—all things needed for safe driving.
Remind them they shouldn’t drive if their medicine warns about operating heavy machinery.
Have them avoid driving at night or in bad weather if that is an issue.
Ask them to drive in the right lane at all times unless preparing to turn left.
Emphasize they should be able to drive the legal speed limit and avoid going too fast or too slow.
Make sure they know where they are going and their preferred route to get there before they head out.
Ask them to be a persistent, unapologetic turn signal user. This easy but underutilized act lets other drivers know their intentions.
Ask them to avoid driving during the morning and evening rush hours or at dawn or dusk when the sun may be in their eyes.
Space is their friend. Ask them to not crowd or tailgate. Space allows for minor errors to stay minor and not become critical.
Work to Improve
None of us are too old or experienced to improve our driving skills. Show them how and where they can work to improve. You may find they will welcome this help if it keeps them driving longer.
Ask them to assess their own driving skills. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has an online tool to help.
Ask them to get help from trusted organizations. The American Automobile Association (AAA), American Association of Retired Persons (AARP) and American Occupational Therapy Association (AOTA) offer driver safety courses geared to older Americans.
Worried Senior Male Driver Looking Through Car Windscreen
Gary Bennett is retired and spends his days providing daycare to grandchildren, volunteering, writing, and driving all around Frederick three days a week delivering prescriptions and observing drivers.
I recently completed the Maryland portion of the venerable Appalachian Trail (AT, for short)—that ancient footpath that stretches nearly 2,200 miles from central Maine to northern Georgia, skipping over the tops of the oldest mountains in North America. When John Denver sings that “life is old there, older than the trees,” he is talking about this part of America. It is a happy coincidence that it passes right by us in central Maryland.
There is no better time to take this on yourself. It’s an unhappy coincidence that we’re all being asked to stay at home to help protect our fellow citizens from COVID-19. We are, however, allowed to go outside for walks as long as we stay six feet apart. For at least momentary mental health reasons we should all take advantage of that rule. It is true you shouldn’t drive long distances to hike on faraway trails in order to limit contact with people and surfaces such as those at gas stations and restaurants, but the AT is right in our back yard. You can access the trail safely and conscientiously without the need for gas stations or restaurants. And staying six feet apart on most parts of the AT is not a problem. You can trust me on that.
I’m not trying to minimize that many of us are essential and still working or that we have childcare responsibilities or sick relatives that need our full attention. And those who have recently been laid off understandably have other concerns and demands on their precious time. But if you can spare some time for yourself, you’ll only need four days of about five hours each to complete this amazing “walk on steroids” that will fill you with a sense of accomplishment.
Late last fall I set a goal for myself to hike the Maryland portion of the AT in the spring of 2020—a goal that must seem very humble to the hardcore hikers among us but one that is more than daunting for someone like me who has never been a hiker. Sure, I’ve taken a few long walks in the woods over the years and many, many walks around the Frederick cul-de-sacs with my middle-aged suburban brethren. And at least one time I walked home from work in downtown D.C. to my former home in Laurel, Maryland—a 15-mile asphalt jungle hike on Route 1. But I’ve never attempted something like this. Yet if I can do it, you can do it, too.
And I did it! Over the course of four day-hikes beginning in mid-March and finishing up in early April, I covered Maryland’s 42-mile section of the AT. Further below I will relate my day-by-day experience so you can make your own plans.
General Impressions
As I reflect back on this series of day-hikes, several things come to mind. First and foremost, I now know I can traverse the entire Appalachian Trail if I should ever care to set my mind to it and allocate the time and patience. There may be tougher parts of the trail but it is hard to see how that could not be conquered with simply a slower pace and more time.
The silence and solitude you experience on the AT is all consuming. The times when the silence is interrupted by the rat-a-tat-tat percussion of a woodpecker, the laughing of oncoming hikers, the humming of a chain saw way off in the distance or small trees creaking in the breeze are surprising and sometimes startling. A strong breeze sometimes sounds like a small freight train just above your head. Sounds of civilization far, far away somehow become comforting. I particularly enjoyed the lonely moan of a train horn many miles away, the faint crackle of a power line in the distance, and the drone of a small plane on the horizon.
Just some of the rocks you’ll have to consider carefully before putting your foot down.
There seem to be millions and millions of rocks and boulders of all shapes and sizes to consider on the trail. You will step on many of them and curse some of them. One has to wonder why God placed so many of these seemingly useless objects in our path, but He is God and He knows why and we needn’t trouble ourselves with that. The vertical white blaze marks that point the way are like long lost friends. When you don’t see one for a while you panic just a little even when you know you are not that far from civilization. The trail mostly looks like how you would expect a trail to look except when you are clambering up the side of a mountain over boulders. Then, even the rocks are marked with white blazes. I was worried about seeing snakes during my hikes over the rocks but you needn’t worry about them this time of year. They are safely sleeping off the winter and early spring blues. I saw nary a one. In fact, the only wildlife I saw beside birds singing overhead were two white-tailed deer happily loping along oblivious to me.
And all the trees. At this time of year the thousands of mostly barren trees stand like sentries guarding the trail and you. Many have fallen, some to their final resting place on the forest floor while others are held up by their still-standing compatriots. There are so many fallen trees that you wonder why you never witness one falling yourself. Perhaps it’s better you don’t. Perhaps the Good Lord Himself reserves these solemn funerals for Himself. The final decomposition of the fallen trees reminds you of the circle of life as they finally transform themselves into mulch and then the rich brown soil that is so necessary for the next generation of trees.
Despite my references to God, hiking the Appalachian Trail has not been a religious experience for me like so many others report. Perhaps that level of consciousness is reserved for the thru-hikers. I’m not sure. For me, hiking the AT in Maryland has been more like a very hard workout done during a very quiet mini-vacation with many unexpected rewards along the way.
The trail is beautiful in a “magnificent desolation” kind of way this time of year, breathtaking, exhausting and very possibly the closest you will ever get to seeing what you are made of and what you can do. Unlike professional and Olympic athletes, not many of us are called upon to exert ourselves to maximize speed, strength, endurance, agility or grace. Walking the Appalachian Trail in Maryland may be as close as everyday people like us can get to this level of athleticism. My mantra was simply put one foot in front of the other, even when tired. That philosophy served me well. If you can do that, before you know it you are done. It helps that at some point during your hike it makes no sense to turn back. It is better to just keep going.
You might be wondering, why do this in the first place? Forty-two miles doesn’t sound so tough, right? You can easily do 42 miles around your own familiar neighborhood over several evening walks. Or, you can even do 42 miles by making ten trips up and down Carroll Creek Park in downtown Frederick from start to finish. But if you’re like me, you get bored easily with the same old walk, walking in circles (large as they may be), or, heaven forbid, back-tracking. No, I, and many people like me, need an official starting point and ending point, preferably way off in the distance. That is why I have biked the 180-mile C&O Canal in sections from start to finish. Twice. And that is what the AT in Maryland provides—a trek that is neither too long to be doable in a reasonable amount of time nor too short to be easy. It is just right and provides an endless challenge and a top-notch workout to boot.
I’ll admit that completing the entire 2,200-mile AT is a romantic notion that I would love to achieve, but probably never will. Not because I couldn’t—now I think I could—but because I can never see me being an AT “thru-hiker,” as they are called. These are the determined, hardy souls who camp on the trail and get up every day and carry a 50- pound pack for another 15 miles. Day after day after day. I don’t think I could physically do that. Plus, in the best of circumstances it takes about six months out of your life. Nor can I see me driving off to remote locations for occasional day hikes that would allow me to check off sections of the trail a little at a time. That would be pretty easy physically, I think, but would be inefficient and quite expensive.
Better to limit myself to my home state, at least to start with. Maryland is a relatively skinny state only accounting for 42 miles of the 2,200-mile AT. Maryland’s 42-mile section begins at Penmar Park in northern Washington County, which straddles the Mason-Dixon Line near Cascade, Maryland and Rouzerville, Pennsylvania, then meanders across the top of South Mountain, roughly paralleling the Frederick and Washington County border before finishing up at the Potomac River at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia.
I didn’t do too much planning for this 42-mile, multi-day hike, and you won’t need to either. My hiking wardrobe consisted of comfortable shorts, a t-shirt, sweatshirt, sunglasses, 2 pairs of white socks and hiking shoes bought a few months earlier at Trail House in downtown Frederick. I filled my small blue backpack with two bottles of water, one bottle of Gatorade, 2 granola bars, two pieces of fruit and some crackers and almonds. I threw in my phone, of course, a towel, my AT guidebook also purchased at Trail House, a Mofi to charge my phone if needed, and a few bandages and Neosporin just in case. Ellen, my nurse/wife, insisted on that. My wardrobe, supplies and snacks were consistent over my four day-hikes.
Day-Hike #1, March 14, 2020 Penmar Park to Route 17 (Wolfesville Road) – 9 Miles
The Maryland portion of the Appalachian Trail is located about in the middle.
My first planned hike was a modest nine miles from Penmar Park on the Maryland/Pennsylvania border to the trail crossing at Maryland Route 17 – Wolfesville Road. Ellen and I set out for Penmar Park on a cool and breezy Saturday morning. We took just one car since my wife wouldn’t be hiking. She would drop me off and pick me up later that day. If you and your spouse/friend/partner both want to hike, just take two cars if you can, placing one at the beginning of your hike and the other at the end. Truth is that the trail in Maryland is never very far from civilization and highway access points.
As I stepped out of the car at Penmar Park at 10:00 am, I was pleased to have as my first AT experience a beautiful vista overlook, panning east towards Thurmont, Maryland. “This is going to be great,” I remember saying out loud. Ellen kissed me goodbye and later admitted that she felt the same way she did when she packed off our oldest son to his first day of kindergarten. It’s sort of an irrational feeling that you’ll never see them again, she explained. Thank goodness there is a big sign featuring north and south directional arrows near the overlook or I would have needed my phone’s built-in compass right way. That would have been embarrassing. The sign says that Maine is 1,080 miles away to the north and Georgia 920 miles to the south. In Maryland you are about halfway along the trail. The mileage is impressive but I wasn’t intimidated. Maybe if I was a thru-hiker.
As I strode deeper and deeper into the woods, I made sure to note the white vertical “blaze” marks on the trees that would show me the way. These crucial signposts are placed there by the various hiking clubs who voluntarily maintain the AT. They become your best friends. I started out on a gentle incline but it rapidly changed to a steep one of about 700 feet over the course of about three miles to High Rock, an old hang-gliding site on the northern part of South Mountain. The walk was not great anymore; it was hard. I was huffing and puffing as I ascended the AT to High Rock, but I wasn’t too worried. I knew from my guidebook that things would get better. I thought of this as a character builder or maybe the ultimate aerobic workout with a great prize at the end. I never considered turning back. The vista at High Rock is mesmerizing but the rock itself is marred by an overabundance of colorful graffiti. Still, you won’t want to leave. High Rock is accessible by road so it is a popular hangout for locals of all ages. On this Saturday, I saw only one family there enjoying the sights.
I didn’t dawdle there long. Mindful of making good time, I got on my way quickly. The trail soon began an equally steep descent of 500 feet over another two miles to Raven Rock Shelter. All shelters and campsites on the AT in Maryland are currently closed by order of Governor Hogan due to the COVID-19 outbreak. For better or worse, this has taken a lot of thru hikers off the AT this year.
Boards over quiet stream on Appalachian Trail near Smithsburg, MD. Thank you to the trail clubs for the work you do!
From Raven Rock Shelter I descended another 200 feet over two miles to Warner Gap Road. Along the way I had the pleasure of making two stream crossings, one by “rock hopping” and one via two boards situated over the creek by the local AT hiking club. I ate lunch by the quintessential babbling brook and couldn’t help but think I was in a Norman Rockwell painting. From there I ascended another 250 feet over the final three miles past Maryland Route 77 – Foxville Road and Ensign Cowall Shelter and on to Maryland Route 17 – Wolfesville Road for my scheduled pickup. I forgot to call my wife about a mile out as I had planned so I made myself comfortable in the grass and waited. I almost fell asleep.
My tracker said I covered nine miles right on the nose, took 27,000 steps and climbed 134 flights. I finished up at about 4:00 pm. I hiked for roughly six hours and averaged just under two miles an hour. I feel exhausted but great.
Day-Hike #2, March 20, 2020 Route 17 (Wolfesville Road) to the I-70 Footbridge – 8.7 Miles
It was a drizzly, cool Friday when Ellen dropped me off at the Wolfesville Road AT crossing near Smithsburg, Maryland at about 11:00 am. I was happy to see only two other unoccupied cars in the lot. My plan for this day was to hike 8.7 miles to the AT’s I-70 footbridge. This may be the best-known Maryland AT crossing to non-hikers. It is hard to miss the Appalachian Trail sign on the bridge as you drive under it on I-70 or the many cars parked at the access point on Route 40. The footbridge area is also one of the most popular access points to the AT in Maryland so you can expect some small crowds at times. But they quickly thin out on the trail.
I set off on a slightly downhill path and then crossed back over Route 17 and immediately started a grueling uphill climb back and forth over large boulders until I reached the top of South Mountain. This is a 400-foot hand-over-hand ascent in just over half a mile. It is seriously strenuous but I couldn’t help feeling proud of myself as I reached the top still able to breathe just about normally. The rest of the hike took a slightly downhill tack. I was thankful for that. Soon I settled into a nice loping gait that seemed much faster than two miles an hour. At six foot two, I am blessed with long legs and a long stride. Even so, almost every step is one that has to be considered carefully. I had no idea these mountains are so rocky. Nearly every step forces you to decide which rock to step on or avoid because of its sharpness.
The two best landmarks on this section of the AT in Maryland are Black Rock Cliffs and Annapolis Rocks. It took about 5 miles to get to Black Rock Cliffs and I was rewarded with a breathtaking vista looking west towards Hagerstown. In another mile or so with a slight incline, you arrive at Annapolis Rocks, which is at the end of a secondary trail that takes you just two-tenths of a mile out of your way. It is well signed and very much worth the side trip. Don’t pass it up. Still looking west towards Hagerstown, the vista is higher and even more breathtaking than Black Rock Cliffs. The downside is that Annapolis Rocks can be crowded. On this day there were about 30 people spaced among the rocks. The Rocks are only 2.2 miles from the I-70 footbridge which explains the popularity. It is a moderately easy hike from there. I later realize that Annapolis Rocks is that clump of rocks you see plastered on the side of South Mountain as you approach Frederick from the west. It stands like a beacon welcoming all to Frederick County.
Looking westward from Annapolis Rocks on South Mountain toward Hagerstown, MD.
From Annapolis Rocks I descended about 600 feet over the course of two and a half miles to the I-70 footbridge. I have learned that steep descents, while looking good on paper, bring their own challenges. I found myself trying to hold back so as to not fly down the mountain and cause myself to trip. This puts some added pressure on your knees. Ellen is there to pick me up at about 3:30 pm.
My tracker said that I walked 8.7 miles, took just under 22,000 steps, and climbed 68 flights. I did all this in about 4.5 hours so I averaged almost 2 miles per hour. I’m two for two so far!
Day-Hike #3, March 26, 2020 I-70 Footbridge to Gathland State Park – 14.5 Miles
Ellen dropped me off at the I-70 footbridge and now has more confidence in me. I have more confidence in myself, too. On this day, I planned my longest and most ambitious hike yet – 14.5 miles to Gathland State Park near Burkittsville, Maryland. I didn’t really want to hike this far but the best two pick up points on this part of the AT are at Gathland, 14.5 miles away, and Reno Monument Road, only seven miles away. “Seven miles is nothing to me now,” I boasted, so I picked the former and allotted 7 hours for the hike.
We headed out at 10 am. It was a sunny Thursday morning with highs forecasted in the 70’s. I double checked to make sure I had my sweating towel. It is a long hike and one that promised to be quite challenging. The pros would call it highly technical and moderately difficult. I started out at 1,200 feet, went down to 900 feet, went back up to 1,600 feet, before finishing up at 950 feet at Gathland State Park.
My first stop came at the three-mile mark at the Washington Monument. No, not that Washington Monument but the one that was built first in the U.S. (1827) by villagers of Boonsboro, Maryland, to honor the first president. The 30-foot stone structure commands the southwestern edge of South Mountain, can be seen for miles, and looks out over Boonsboro, Maryland. It quickly appears as you come up a small hill and literally takes your breath away.
George Washington Monument on South Mountain near Boonsboro, MD.
Next, I traveled over fairly flat terrain to Turner’s Gap on Alternate Route 40. You may know Turner’s Gap better as the place where the South Mountain Inn currently stands promising “Food and Drink For All.” Here, I appropriately stopped for lunch at a deserted employee picnic table at about 12:30. At about the halfway point, 7 miles in, I came upon Reno Monument Road and the monument built to honor a scene of heavy Civil War fighting in 1862 and the winning general from the North, Jesse Reno, who was mortally wounded at the end of the battle. This was the low point of today’s hike at 910 feet.
From there I had a gradual but arduous 700-foot ascent to Lamb’s Knoll and White Rock Cliffs. The Cliffs is the only overlook to this point on the trail that looks eastward towards Frederick and features mile after mile of pristine Frederick County farmland in the beautiful Middletown Valley. From there it was a gradual 700-foot descent over three miles to this day’s terminus at Maryland Route 572 — Gapland Road at Gathland State Park just south of Burkittsville. As I passed through these woods made famous by the movie The Blair Witch Project I was happy to see no strange wooden mini-structures designed by otherworldly beings.
I called Ellen the requisite 30 minutes ahead of time to pick me up at the appointed parking lot. She beat me by about 10 minutes as I undertook a steep and arduous descent down the mountain. I could see the parking lot below teasing me for what seemed to be hours as I eased down the hill. I was traveling extremely slowly on this section, slower than I had traveled when I was going up the mountain. It was that steep.
As I finally collapsed into the waiting car at 5 pm, my tracker said I traveled 14.5 miles, took 33,000 steps, and climbed 106 flights over seven hours. I am improving; I averaged just over two miles an hour. After a hot bath and great dinner, I slept like a baby.
Fourth and Final Day-Hike, April 2, 2020 Gathland State Park to Potomac River at Harpers Ferry – 10 Miles
It was a sunny but blustery Thursday with highs in the 60’s as I began this final leg of the Maryland section of the Appalachian Trail. I anticipated my easiest leg since I was starting out at 1,150 feet and descending steadily to 250 feet over 10 miles to the Potomac River at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. I scrambled out of the car quickly at 11:15 am since I was not entirely sure we should have driven the 15 miles from Frederick to Gathland State Park to begin today’s hike. The previous day Governor Hogan issued a stay-at-home order due to the coronavirus outbreak but since outside exercise is allowed, I reasoned this must be okay. But still, I wasn’t interested in explaining my thinking to any law enforcement officials who might be close by.
Ed Garvey Shelter on South Mountain in Maryland.
First, I traveled about three and a half mostly level but rocky miles to Ed Garvey Shelter, which is officially closed due to the governor’s order. I found a rickety picnic table to have my lunch. The shelter looks east out over the beautiful, fertile farmland of southern Frederick County. One other hiker was lounging there. We acknowledged each other but stayed far apart. Next, I completed a gentle descent of about 200 feet over another two miles to Weverton Cliffs. The view of the Potomac River from this vantage point is breathtaking. Again, only one other hiker joined me at this beautiful landmark. After mentally recharging here for about 15 minutes, I began the arduous trek down the mountainside toward Weverton Road and then on to the Potomac River. This nearly 400-foot descent takes place over just one mile and featured a zig-zagging, back and forth trail that necessarily prevents hikers from falling down the mountain. I am glad I was going down and not up.
I met a family with small children heading up the trail toward Weverton Cliffs but warned them off. That particular section is just too tough for small children. The dad was thankful. If you want what I believe to be the most arduous workout the AT in Maryland has to offer, I highly recommend the one-mile hike going north from Weverton Road to Weverton Cliffs. From Weverton Road it is an easy hike under U.S. 340, onto Keep Tryst Road and then as an extra bonus, you hike west for two miles on the C&O canal to reach the Goodloe E. Byron Memorial Footbridge over the Potomac River and into Harpers Ferry, West Virginia.
Unfortunately, you cannot actually use the footbridge at this time. It is closed indefinitely due to damage from a train derailment late last year. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy recommends calling a taxi to transport you into West Virginia. Happily, I had no such need as I reached my goal of hiking all 42 miles of the AT in Maryland over the course of four day-hikes. Ellen picked me up at about 5:00 on nearby Sandy Hook Road, which parallels the Potomac River and C&O Canal on the Maryland side of the river.
Over about six hours, I hiked exactly 10 miles, took 27,921 steps and climbed 66 flights.
Weverton Cliffs overlooking Potomac River in Maryland near Harpers Ferry, WV.
We are fortunate to have this national treasure so close by. So, give the Maryland portion of the Appalachian Trail a try, especially now when so many of us have time on our hands. It’s not that awfully far and it is very safe. I hiked it alone but can see that it would be a good idea to take a partner with you if you can. But if not, don’t let that stop you. I came upon many hikers that would have helped me had I been in distress. That is the code of the trail I am told
What’s next for me? I would love to complete the West Virginia and Northern Virginia portions this year, beginning as soon as the travel ban between states is lifted. It is only another 54 miles. Only. I still can’t believe I can say that now, but my confidence is at an all-time high.
Valentine’s Day is here! It’s time to plug in that perfect playlist for the evening’s activities. No, no, not necessarily those activities.
But, it is nice to have the right background music when presenting your loved one with flowers, those delicious red and pink M&Ms artfully placed in a pretty candy bowl, and that little heart necklace you picked up at Kay Jewelers.
Recording artists of the ‘60s, ‘70s and ’80 provided the soundtrack of my youth so I always look to them to help with completing my playlists. Whether it’s love songs, Christmas songs or rainy-day songs, I can always count on the sensitive singer-songwriters and soft rocks bands of these earlier, gentler times to provide the ambiance I need.
So, here are my top ten classic love songs guaranteed to set the Valentine Day’s mood. Did I miss any of your favorites?
You still have time to surreptitiously create your own playlist and magically call it up on your smart speaker on Valentine’s Day. If you do, you will own the day and your loved one will never look at you the same way again. (I mean that in a good way.)
10. Glen Campbell: “Grow Old with Me” John Lennon wrote it but never got a chance to record it. Glen’s beautiful voice does justice to this simple, heartfelt tune. “Grow old along with me, whatever fate decrees, we will see it through, for our love is true.”
9. Dan Fogelberg: “Longer” A frequent wedding song that sweetly proclaims that love will last forever. “Longer than there’ve been stars up in the heavens, I’ve been in love with you.”
8. Al Green: “Let’s Stay Together” This soulful balladeer promises he’ll do whatever it takes to keep his baby. “Let me say that since, baby, since we’ve been together, ooh, loving you forever, is what I need, let me, be the one you come running to, I’ll never be untrue.”
7. Willie Nelson: “Always on My Mind” The grizzled, veteran singer struck gold with this sorrowful, love mea culpa. “Little things I should have said and done, I just never took the time, but you were always on my mind, you were always on my mind.”
6. Gordon Lightfoot: “Beautiful” The spare arrangement and simple words offer the profound emotion of love realized. “And when you hold me tight, how could life be anything but beautiful, I think that I was made for you, and you were made for me.”
5. Beatles: “Something” This timeless classic written by quiet Beatle George Harrison tells about the little things that makes love so special. “Somewhere in her smile she knows, that I don’t need no other lover, something in her style that shows me.”
4. Etta James: “At Last” This quintessential wedding song from the ‘40s proclaims love has finally arrived. It was made famous by Etta in 1961. “At last, my love has come along, my lonely days are over, and life is like a song”
3. Kenny Rogers: “Through the Years” The perfect song for a grateful man in a long-term relationship who can’t believe it has been so good. “Through the years, you’ve never let me down, you’ve turned my life around, the sweetest days I’ve found, I’ve found with you.”
2. Foreigner: “I Want to Know What Love Is” A haunting melody that shows how to look for love after it’s been lost. “I wanna know what love is, I want you to show me, I wanna feel what love is, I know you can show me.”
1. The Righteous Brothers: “Unchained Melody” This strangely titled but deeply emotional song perfectly captures the intense longing for an unwavering love. You’ll be amazed at their range in octaves. “Woah, my love, my darling, I’ve hungered for your touch, Are you still mine?”
Honorable mentions: The Association’s “Cherish,” Bee Gee’s “Run to Me,” Chicago’s “Just You ‘n’ Me,” Climax’s “Precious and Few,” Climax Blues Band’s “I Love You,” Jim Croce’s “I’ll Have to Say I Love You in a Song,” Eagles’ “Best of My Love,” John Lennon’s “Woman,” Barry Manilow’s “Somewhere in the Night,” Paul McCartney’s “No More Lonely Nights,” Orleans’ “Love Takes Time” and Turtles’ “Happy Together.”
Did anyone else scratch their head when reading the story with the headline “District 5 residents ask not to be ignored”(The Frederick News-Post, Jan. 30)?
It came a few days after Thurmont residents voted in a referendum to disallow the annexation of 16.7 acres of county land in order to stop a high-density development that would have brought in over $1 million in tax revenue?
Residents from the northern part of the county made their conflicting feelings known at a District 5 town hall held by the new county executive just a few days after the referendum.
They say they often feel left out so they came with a laundry list of spending wishes including repairs and upgrades to roads, new parks and trails, help for emergency services, and more affordable housing for seniors—the very things this nixed high-density development would have aided.
Of course, District 5 includes more than just Thurmont, but one has to wonder if these folks wish to have their cake and eat it, too.
The kicker came when one resident said “the referendum came to a vote because the people of Thurmont want an opportunity to have a development that fits in with their small town atmosphere, not rows of townhouses that looks like Frederick City.”
As a proud resident of Frederick City, I hope the person I quoted does not partake of our many fine restaurants, theaters, cultural activities, parks or trails—all those things that a higher-density tax base allows—because if they do, they have shown their true “not in my backyard” colors.
Perhaps it is time Frederick County adopt a “fair share” law in affordable housing that is now gaining traction in other states and jurisdictions—an approach that assigns each town a certain number of units to plan and zone for, based on the needs of the region and the wealth of the town in question. The towns would then share the responsibility for that need.
Thurmont, I hate to break this to you, but your working-age children and your aging parents simply can’t afford to live in your single-family town and will most likely move to a townhouse in Frederick.
Not everyone loves Christmas songs, but you can put me in a special category. I love Christmas songs from classic rockers.
It couldn’t have been easy for them. I’m sure some producer or agent along the way told them they needed to do a Christmas album or at least record a few Christmas songs. It would have been easy to record a few of the old standards, and many of them did just that. But, to write and record an original track and have it turn into a standard, well, that is saying something.
Here are my top 10 original Christmas songs from classic rockers, or at least covers that have become indelibly associated with the artist. Build this playlist into your smart speaker and, if you’re about my age, you’ll be instantly transported back to your teen years when Christmas was carefree.
How’d I do? Did I miss any of your favorites?
10. Jim Croce – It Doesn’t Have to Be That Way What can I say, I’m a big fan and this is my list. But wait. Give it a chance. Listen to the unmistakably smooth voice and heartfelt sentiment. 9. Paul McCartney – Wonderful Christmas Time This one’s a bit syrupy, but come on, it’s Paul McCartney! He can do what he wants. 8. Paul Young – What Christmas Means to Me Paul is an obscure ’70s/’80s top 40 artist who somehow struck gold with this one. 7. Kenny Loggins – Celebrate Me Home This obscure song is hauntingly beautiful. Just listen. 6. Carpenters – Merry Christmas, Darling Ok, they’re not rockers but the angelic voice of Karen Carpenter offers up a true standard of aching loneliness and missing your loved one at Christmas. 5. Bryan Adams – Christmas Time I love this Canadian rocker’s voice and sentiment. Super nostalgic. Always takes me back. 4. Beach Boys – Little Saint Nick They make it seem so easy. These Hall of Famers offer their 60’s hit Little Deuce Coup with snow a-flying instead of rubber! 3. Stevie Wonder – Some Day at Christmas A pointed, political statement from someone who really cares. 2. Eagles – Please Come Home for Christmas It wouldn’t be Christmas without this bluesy and melancholy cover. 1. John Lennon and Yoko Ono– Happy Xmas (War Is Over) A political statement mixed with an unforgettable melody and simple words. A true masterpiece from an all-time great.
