By Gary Bennett
In 2025, the Appalachian Trail, the longest hiking-only footpath in the world, celebrates 100 years of measuring the skills, endurance and heart of thousands of intrepid adventurers.
Over 3,000 hikers attempt to complete the entire length in any given year. Only about one in four succeed. The successful ones are forever known as “thru-hikers” and are treated on the trail with the awe and respect they deserve.
Along with these remarkable thru-hikers, the AT also welcomes and tests the more modest among us: day-hikers, section hikers and “2,000-milers.” The latter are pretty amazing, too. They are the people who hike the entire distance of the AT but not all at one time and not necessarily all in one year.
From its humble beginning at a conference of likeminded hikers and outdoorsmen in March 1925 to today, the AT has provided what was once unthinkable: a continuous, 2,200-mile footpath, skipping along the tops of the Appalachian Mountains from Georgia to Maine. The trail was ultimately completed in 1937.
To be sure, the trail tests one’s mettle at every turn. The terrain is mountainous for its entire length, with an elevation gain and loss equivalent to hiking Mt. Everest from sea level and back 16 times. Hikers of all stripes grouchily complain about the PUDs — the seemingly “pointless ups and downs.” The trail passes through some of the densest wilderness in the U.S.
Grandpa Walking
Although not a thru-hiker, Annapolis resident and divorced father of three Harvey Dennenberg is as adventurous as they come. He has been alive for almost the entirety of the AT’s existence.
The 84-year-old hiking savant is a proud 2,000-miler. He completed the entire trail in sections, beginning at age 68 in September 2009 and finishing up in 2021 at age 80. He lectures about the AT and has written a book, “Maine’s Appalachian Trail: How Seniors Made Section Hiking Easier,” which is available on Amazon and other sites and is also part of the permanent collection at the Appalachian Trail Museum in Pennsylvania.
And, no, he is not the oldest to ever complete the trail. But he’s close!
Dennenberg, known as “Grandpa Walking” (because all hikers must have a trail name) credits reading Bill Bryson’s famous book, “A Walk in the Woods,” in 2000 as his impetus for taking on the AT. There was something special about Bryson’s account of attempting but failing to complete the trail with his overweight friend Katz that piqued Dennenberg’s curiosity. Could he do it? He began to think he could.
He had some hiking experience. In 1993 he bought a second home in Boulder, Colorado, and hiked the local trails in the summer. He did his first modest AT day-hike in 2003 and then some overnight backpacking in 2005.
He retired in 2007 and moved to Maryland. Living in Lutherville, he frequented the trails around Loch Raven Reservoir and even did some camping and hiking in Frederick County at Catoctin State Park. One early AT section hike took him and a partner across Maryland from Pen Mar Park southbound to Harpers Ferry over four days.
Dennenberg began his AT journey in earnest in 2009 by driving to Maine and attempting to scale Mount Katahdin, the infamous starting/ending point of the AT that stands over 5,700 feet high, is often snow-covered and is always rocky and treacherous for even the most seasoned hiker. He failed on this attempt “off the couch,” but he was hooked.
Over the next 12 years, he completed the AT in all 14 states, often hiking with other seniors — 33 different partners at last count, several of whom were women.
Dennenberg counts these many hiking partners and how they helped him among his fondest memories.
“Lee and Randy taught me two-car, road-to-road hiking. Fred and Greg taught me about pre-planning and using spreadsheets to plan hikes. Big Ed, aka Joker, always got water for me when I was too tired to move. Jim, aka Chill, was always calm and collected and a great influence when I got frustrated.”
The hostel owners along the way were also great and always willing to help, he said. He fondly remembers the wonderful, full-body massage he received at Woods Hole in Virginia after nine days of hiking.
And the food! Hiking the AT is a study in deprivation, according to most, so when you get the chance to eat well, you take advantage of it. He remembers a sumptuous breakfast buffet at Mountain Harbour on the Tennessee/North Carolina border and savory meatballs and lobster rolls at another stop.
Not everything, of course, was sunshine and roses.
Heat and humidity were his worst enemies, sapping strength and ending hikes. “I had planned a solo backpack [trip] for three days and two nights in July 2011. I had to quit after eight miles and call my shuttle driver to come get me. I had stopped sweating and knew I was in trouble.”
Fording streams in Maine was particularly tricky and harrowing.
“The rivers and streams have strong currents, and the smooth bottom rocks are covered with moss,” he said. “I always made sure one foot was firmly planted before moving the other foot.”
Then there are the infamous White Mountains of New Hampshire and Maine. For large chunks of the trail, there are steep, almost vertical climbs and descents. In many places, you must “hike” hand over hand.
“Mahoosuc Notch in New Hampshire is the most difficult one mile on the entire AT,” Dennenberg said. “There are huge boulders to climb over and crawl under and gaps in the boulders to jump across. I spent a lot of time crawling.”
While never seriously lost, he agrees that poorly-marked or unmarked areas can be a problem, especially in wilderness areas. Being able to use a map and compass in addition to a GPS device can make the difference between staying on track and getting lost.
Dennenberg never had any run-ins with wildlife but cautions hikers to be vigilant nonetheless. Food must be hung and not kept in tents unless you want company from a hungry bear. Hikers should also watch out for moose, especially in Maine, as they tend to use the trail to get from place to place, just as we do.
But Dennenberg would do it all over again if he had the chance and recommends the AT to anyone who has the will and desire to test themselves.
Unfortunately, in 2023, Dennenberg herniated his L2/L3 discs hiking the Long Trail in Vermont and had to quit after the first day. He has not hiked since and fears his hiking days may be over.
Even if he never takes another step on the AT, Dennenberg will be forever known as a 2,000-miler and affectionately as Grandpa Walking.
Gary Bennett is a longtime Frederick resident who spends his time hiking, biking, volunteering and providing childcare for grandchildren. He is married and retired from his career as a nonprofit marketing executive.
