Ask a Marylander where they’re going this summer, and chances are you’ll hear the typical “Merlin” response, “downee ocean, hon!” (Translation: Down to the ocean, my friend.)
Of course, when you go to the ocean in Maryland, you’re going to just one place: Maryland’s iconic beach resort, Ocean City.
But let’s face it, Ocean City in the summer is not for everyone. It can be loud and obnoxious. I know it can be an acquired taste for many, including myself. But, as with, say, a stern mother-in-law, if you can give yourself a chance to know and love her, you’ll be repaid many times over.
There’s good news for people like us: We can fall in love with Ocean City all over again in the winter. It’s really the perfect antidote to the winter blues. So, if you haven’t tried Ocean City with a chill in the air, you’re in for a treat. A calm, quiet treat.
CITY SIZE
In the off-season, Ocean City returns to being a small village of about 7,000 residents, down from about 320,000 in the summer. This is about the size of Walkersville! With so few people and so much land and infrastructure, you’ll have plenty of room to spread out and relax.
OPEN FOR BUSINESS
Be advised: Ocean City is open in the winter. Not everything, of course, but everything that matters.
You’ll still have the iconic boardwalk paralleling the Atlantic Ocean from First to 27th Street. You’ll still have about 10 miles of sandy beaches to explore. You’ll still have beautiful sunrises over the ocean and sunsets over the bay.
When you bundle up for a brisk walk on the smooth, wooden-planked boardwalk in the winter, you’ll have plenty of room to watch the crashing waves without crashing into fellow tourists. Believe it or not, fires are also allowed on the beach, with a permit.
Most of the familiar boardwalk haunts will be open at least for limited hours in the winter. I’ve frequented all these in the winter myself: Thrasher’s French Fries, Wockenfuss Candy, Fisher’s Popcorn, The Dough Roller, M.R. Ducks and Purple Moose Saloon, to name a few.
HOTELS
Not all hotels are open in the winter, but you should have no trouble finding perfectly acceptable oceanfront properties to unwind and gaze upon the waves. Most will have indoor pools, too. The name-brand hotels are your best bet in the winter. Also, be sure to search out local favorites Carousel and Princess Royale. They and others will feature specials for Valentine’s Day and the long President’s Day weekend.
RESTAURANTS
Many of the smaller restaurants on the boardwalk are closed in the winter, but don’t despair. Food options are plentiful year-round for locals and brave tourists. I recommend Harborside Bar and Grill, which reopens Dec. 15, for burgers and comfort food, in West Ocean City. Fager’s Island is a fine upscale restaurant worth visiting in North Ocean City. Other local favorites are Marlin Moon, Palm, Coral Reef, Captain’s Table and The Restaurant at Lighthouse Sound.
DOGS AND BIKES
If you have dogs and want to bring them along, the offseason (Oct. 1 to April 30) is for you. Dogs are allowed on the beach anytime. You’ll have ample room to throw that frisbee or play ball. For a little green space, head up to 94th Street for the Dog Playground. It comes complete with a doggie pool, a small dog area and covered seating with plenty of benches. You’ll need to register your dogs in person at Northside Park on 125th Street or online at oceancitymd.gov/rec. Passes are $10 for one day and $20 for three days.
On those relatively warm winter days that are become increasingly normal, head out by boat to the sandbar just north of Hooper’s Crab House where you’ll likely see plenty of dogs frolicking in the shallow water.
Bring your bike, too. Bikes are also allowed on the boardwalk at any time in the winter. The same goes for rollerblades, scooters and other self-propelled and small engine apparatuses. Rentals will be hard to find, so bring your own. Up and down the boardwalk from start to finish is a perfect 5-mile circuit.
Dogs frolic in the cold, shallow Ocean City surf.
FISHING
The typical fishing season in Ocean City is May through October, so you may not be able to charter an excursion during the off-season, but you can do some ocean, bay, surf or pier fishing on your own any time of year. A valid fishing license for the Atlantic Ocean and coastal bays is required.
Ocean City bills itself as the “white marlin capital of the world,” but several other species are plentiful and in season at any time of year, including American eel, black drum, black sea bass, bluefish, croaker, grouper, mahi-mahi, red drum, Spanish mackerel, spotted seatrout, flounder, wahoo, and weakfish.
INDOOR MINI GOLF AND ICE SKATING
Old Pro Golf has an under-cover course at 68th Street called, appropriately, Undersea Adventure. There’s no better way to while away a couple hours putt-putting your way in total warmth through whales’ mouths and windmills and up and down long hills and curves.
The beautiful oceanfront Carousel Hotel at 118th Street has an indoor ice-skating rink open to the public. Between October and May, you can reserve the rink for two-hour time slots for $125 — perfect for a getaway birthday party.
WINTERFEST OF LIGHTS
If you go between Nov. 17 and Dec. 31, you can enjoy Winterfest of Lights, a mammoth display of holiday lights you can stroll or ride through on a handy tram in 58-acre Northside Park. The animated light displays include a 50-foot tree, flying reindeer and hot chocolate and photos with Santa. This is a much larger display than anything available in Frederick. It’s on par, scale-wise, with the large Christmas lights display in Olney but at a fraction of the cost. The price per person to go through the Olney display: $39. Ocean City’s Winterfest: $6.
ASSATEAGUE ISLAND
You can head a little south of Ocean City for a beautiful escape to Assateague Island. The island itself is 37 miles long and spans Maryland and Virginia. You’ll want to stop at Assateague Island State Park, which has two miles of pristine beach. The nearby marshes are the homes for hundreds of species of wildlife you can spot in the off season, including the famous wild horses. The 100 or so horses roam free and make for great photos. But keep your distance. They are wild animals, after all. The Assateague Island National Seashore Visitor Center offers interesting exhibits including marine aquariums, touch tanks and a film about the wild horses.
View from our winter time, ocean front, reasonably-priced hotel.
PUBLIC PARKS
Ocean City is home to several public parks and recreational areas. Some of my favorites include Inlet Park, which is at the southernmost tip of the boardwalk and features great views of the Atlantic and Ocean City’s official time capsule. Northside Park at 125th Street offers 58 acres of hiking trails, a playground, fishing lagoon, picnic areas and an indoor gymnasium. Sunset Park has a bayside promenade with fantastic views of the bay and Assateague. The Downtown Recreation Complex has basketball courts, a skate park, two tennis courts, a playground and an area for bay fishing.
OUTLET MALL IN WEST OCEAN CITY
You can easily spend an entire day at the Outlet Mall in “West O,” as the locals call it. Over 30 outlet shops feature discounts on apparel, footwear, jewelry, handbags, kid’s clothing and eats.
FOX GOLD COAST THEATER
You can kick back and relax in heated recliners and catch the latest movie you can’t seem to find the time to enjoy in Frederick. The theater is on Coastal Highway at 113th Street behind the Goad Coast Mall.
BAR SCENE
If hitting the bars is more your style, Ocean City naps a bit in the winter but certainly doesn’t hibernate. Local favorites like Brass Balls Saloon, Seacrets, Fager’s Island and Pier 23 are open and inviting places to sample local beers and cocktails.
And speaking of local cocktails, don’t forget to sample Ocean City’s own original Orange Crush at just about any bar in town. I heartily recommend you go to the source of this concoction at Harborside Bar and Grill in West Ocean City, where you can also have the best burger in town. Be forewarned, it is the quintessential biker and dive bar.
OCEAN CITY PERFORMING ARTS CENTER
For a more genteel evening, head over to the Ocean City Performing Arts Center. Located inside the Roland E. Powell Convention Center at 4001 Coastal Highway, the center provides local, regional and national musical acts, plays and a variety of off-Broadway shows.
The venue is similar to our Weinberg Center, with a 1,200-seat auditorium, two tiers of fixed seating and a concession area. During the off-season, they specialize in orchestral shows, stand-up comedians and tribute shows.
OCEAN CITY LIFE-SAVING MUSEUM
Near the end of the boardwalk at the inlet is the Ocean City Life-Saving Museum. There, you’ll find exhibits of the great storms that have battered Ocean City over the years, sea life, shipwreck finds, mermaids and how life-saving is performed in Ocean City.
BERLIN
The historic town of Berlin is only 8 miles west of Ocean City and well worth a visit. Like Frederick, it has been designated an arts and entertainment district. Its downtown has over 60 retail shops, restaurants, art galleries and music venues. You can explore Berlin’s rich history at Taylor House Museum.
SALISBURY
Salisbury is an easy 30-minute car ride to the west. You won’t want to miss The Country House, “the largest country store in the East,” as it is billed. It’s located at 805 E. Main St. and is quite impressive, with 16,000 square feet of gifts, antiques, home décor, linens, florals, baskets, jewelry, food items and seasonal items.
Gary Bennett is a longtime Frederick resident who spends his time hiking, biking, volunteering and providing childcare for grandchildren. He is married and retired from his career as a nonprofit marketing executive.
The goal-oriented author enjoying a crisp day on the boardwalk.
Every time I make my way to Siesta Key, Florida, the terrific steel-drum-infused Beach Boys song “Kokomo” comes to mind. “Everybody knows, a little place like Kokomo … that’s where you wanna go, to get away from it all.”
I’ve been getting away from it all for close to 40 years now, and it’s the same place almost every year — beautiful Siesta Key. It’s a delightful barrier island that juts into the Gulf of Mexico in Western Florida about 70 miles south of Tampa.
The island itself is only eight miles long and crescent-shaped. It’s bordered by the Gulf of Mexico on the west and the Intercoastal Waterway on the east. The vibrant, handsome city of Sarasota is close by, too. That’s where the Orioles train each spring. Two charming drawbridges connect Siesta Key to the mainland.
Florida, of course, sports hundreds of miles of beaches on the Atlantic Ocean and the gulf. It’s hard to go wrong with almost any of them. But if you want calm, warm water almost any time of year; gentle surf; pristine, white powdery sand; and quiet, minimally invasive nightlife, Siesta Key is the destination for you, too.
STAR ATTRACTIONS
Of its many qualities, the real star of the show in Siesta Key is the white, cool-to-the-touch sand, rated as some of the world’s finest. It’s clean, dazzling white, and feels like confectioner’s sugar. Scientists say this is because it’s made up of nearly 99% quartz crystals, with little to no chipped shells mixed in. You’ll find nothing like it in the beaches along the Atlantic Ocean. There is no such thing as burned feet due to sand in Siesta Key.
Gentle, shallow, azure waves lap continuously at your ankles.
For nine months of the year, the co-star to the beautiful white sand is the gentle, warm water. You rarely need to worry about waves knocking you over or shocking yourself with cold or even cool water as you enter the surf for the first time. Mostly, the water temperature hovers in the high 80s, which approximates the air temperature. You can literally take your noodle out into the gentle surf and bob for hours while chatting with friends or enjoying an adult beverage. There has been no scientific research to my knowledge to prove this, but I am convinced of the healing powers of the gulf waters. I certainly feel rejuvenated after a few hours in it.
BEACHES
Siesta Key is actually made up of three beaches. Each seems to have its own personality.
Siesta Beach to the north is a busy public beach, complete with tennis and volleyball courts, shaded playgrounds and a bustling concession stand. It has year-round lifeguard protection. There is a fun drum circle one or two hours before sunset each Sunday. Teenagers, 20-somethings and day-tripping families flock here.
Crescent Beach, in the middle of the island, is more secluded and private, with only one public access trail. It is perfect for, shall we say, the more mature crowd. It is dotted with pools, palm trees and lovely condos to rent for as little as three days or as much as a year. Loggerhead sea turtles use this beach to lay eggs and nest for up to six months. The beach is kept dark at night so as not to disorient them. There have been nearly 400 total nests established so far in 2023. Chances are, you’ll see some nests on this beach that have been staked off by biologists.
Lovely, fluttering seagrass on the Siesta Key beach.
Turtle Beach to the south is a sportier, family play beach. It’s a great location for paddle boarding and snorkeling. An abundance of seashells makes it beachcomber’s paradise. There are lots of shark’s teeth, too, to impress the kids.
All three beaches feature breathtaking sunsets; gentle, easy-going waves; and beautiful, shallow, azure water. Young parents can feel secure allowing their pre-school kids to play unattended at the water’s edge. Each beach has been recognized for cleanliness, water quality and safety.
The Travel Channel ranks Siesta Beach as one of the nation’s top 10 beaches. It has also been recognized as the No. 1 beach in the U.S. by Stephen D. Leatherman (aka Dr. Beach), director of the highly respected Laboratory for Coastal Research. It continues to receive recognition across the country and world as one of the top coastal destinations. International visitors abound. There is a cacophony of languages to be heard up and down the island.
GETTING THERE
If you’ve seen any of my contributions to 72 Hours, you may know I love road trips. My best friend and I have made this trip by car many times, picking up our less adventurous (OK, saner) wives at the airport. The 1,200 miles from Frederick to Siesta Key may seem daunting, but it’s really not too bad. You can depart from Frederick at 8 a.m. (preferably on a weekend) and be in Daytona Beach or Ocala (depending on which way you go) by 8 p.m. After a good night’s rest, you’ll be in Siesta Key by lunch time. If you really want to push it, you can make it all the way to Siesta Key in about 16 hours, mostly down I-95.
Siesta Key has breathtaking sunsets over the Gulf of Mexico nearly every night.
Of course, you can easily fly into Tampa, St. Petersburg/Clearwater, or Sarasota International Airports from BWI or Dulles in just about two and a half hours and rent a car to complete your trip. A round-trip plane ticket to Tampa and back to BWI on Southwest recently ran us about $450 each. We then rented a mid-size car for 10 days for about $600 at Enterprise.
While on the island, take advantage of handy and free shuttle services when you can. Siesta Trolley, Jonny’s Original Free Rides, Froghopper and Key Life Shuttle will all deliver you to the commercial parts of the island in a relaxed, fun atmosphere.
WHERE TO STAY
One thing you should know about Siesta Key is that there are no hotels. This has been a controversial subject among locals for years. They have, time and again, prevented the big hotel chains from encroaching on the island. For tourists like us, there are plusses and minuses to this stance. There is no denying the lack of hotels keeps a certain charm about the island intact. On the other hand, this means condo owners rule, and rentals can be pricey.
There are plenty of condos, big and small, up and down the island to suit every taste. Three of our favorites include Sea Shell, Midnight Cove and Palm Bay Club. There are even campgrounds at Turtle Beach for the campers among us.
We and another couple just finished up 10 days at a typical five-story condo in the middle of Siesta Key in the front unit with a panoramic view of the Gulf for about $4,500 or about $450 per night. Nearly a quarter of this price is made up of various state and local taxes placed on tourists. We have been loyal to our condo over the years, staying at Sarasota Surf and Raquet Club almost every trip. But, if you decide to go, it would be wise to consult with a real estate agent who can do all the legwork to find the best value for you. They are paid by the condo owners to find renters.
Prices vary by season, of course. In-season in Florida is generally winter and spring. Prices will be higher then. Our annual trip in September is off-season and a bit cheaper. It also has the added benefit of less tourists due to schools being in session all over the country. Many owners do not rent their condos off-season.
WHAT TO DO
Many people, including us, are more than happy to just chill — spend all day reading, chatting and snoozing under big umbrellas and floating in the warm gulf waters. But if you are more energetic, there is no lack of things to do. I heartily recommend visits to at least four local institutions we have enjoyed.
Ringling Museum of Art, named after circus magnate John Ringling, sports 66 lush acres and one of the largest art collections in the country. Ringling’s mansion is a stunning Gothic style palazzo with sweeping views of Sarasota Bay.
Marie Selby Botanical Gardens is a tropical oasis on the shores of Sarasota Bay. It is an open-air museum with more than 20,000 colorful plants, a butterfly garden, Koi Pond, orchid display and art exhibits.
Mote Aquarium has a variety of sea life from the smallest creatures to the largest predators. A shark habitat and hands-on exhibits round out the offerings.
The Legacy Trail is a 20-mile hardwood biking trail from nearby Sarasota to Venice, Florida, through a thick, lush canopy of vegetation. Be sure to watch out for the frequent “alligator crossing” signs as you roll along at a comfortable 10 miles per hour on the flat terrain. There are frequent rest stops along the way.
The beautiful seaside pool at Sarasota Surf & Racquet Club.
Of course, there are the requisite boat rentals, golf courses, fishing charters, parasailing excursions, jet skis rentals and beach cars to tool up and down the island. Most of these commercial offerings happen at the far northern or southern tips of the island, leaving the large middle section blissfully noncommercial.
There is terrific shopping in Siesta Key Village that includes a farmers market every Sunday from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. “The Village,” as it is known to the locals, is a quaint, mile-long shopping and eating district at the northern end of the island. You’ll likely find yourself drawn here many evenings during your visit. Doors are wide open and inviting. The aroma from the restaurants are exquisite. Most of them sport live acoustic music that gives the area a laid-back, beachy feel. Young people are drawn here, including the cast of the MTV series “Siesta Key.”
WHERE TO EAT
If you venture into Sarasota or Venice, you can enjoy upscale, 4- and 5-star restaurants, like Fins at Sharky’s, Marina Jacks, Antoines, Michael’s on East and Flemings. However, I recommend you mostly stay on the island and eat where the locals eat.
Blasé Café, Gilligan’s Island Bar & Restaurant, Crescent Club, Island House Tap & Grill, Siesta Key Oyster Bar, Sniki Tiki and Captain Curt’s are some of our favorites. You won’t want to miss Broken Egg or Toasted Mango for breakfast at least once during your trip. Other top restaurants on the island include Walt’s, Turtle’s, Ophelia’s on the Bay, Flavios, Café Gabbiano, Siesta Key Oyster Bar and The Old Salty Dog.
The Gulf of Mexico has 87 degree water in September.
Despite a pesky smattering of Nationals fans, Frederick is unquestionably Orioles territory. And like many of you, for better or worse, I’ve always had a love/hate relationship with the Orioles. Just like a wayward brother, I can’t stand them for a while, but as time goes by, I do care what becomes of them.
The O’s are playing surprisingly well this season, but even in the lean years, we still had that oasis of a ballpark to visit – Oriole Park at Camden Yards. That modern, yet retro-looking stadium in the heart of Baltimore with the iconic B&O warehouse as its backdrop started the baseball stadium building craze back in 1992. Since then, almost every major league team has either built a new park like OPACY or has made major renovations to their existing park to create a destination for fans.
While I’m not too interested in the success of any other major league team, I do very much enjoy visiting other major league ballparks. Unlike football stadiums (which are never called parks,) no two baseball parks are alike, not even the playing dimensions! Major League parks tend to be little cities unto themselves and a microcosm of humanity from all walks of life. In short, they are fascinating!
Think of a never-ending food court full of delicious food that is never good for you, a multi-level shopping mall, enormous escape room, rollicking music hall, a spacious outdoor lounge under the stars, helpful talk therapy session and expansive entertainment venue all rolled into one. And with more people-watching than even the Real Housewives of Beverly Hills could stand!
My fascination with ballparks goes back to my youth and the occasional family visit to a favorite uncle in Baltimore. Without fail, one of the highlights of these visits would be a trip over to old Memorial Stadium. I can still remember the first time I caught a glimpse of the greenest grass I had ever seen in that mammoth expanse of outfield as I ascended the escalator. Other perplexing and wondrous sights, sounds and (especially) smells awaited this rural, pre-teen kid who never dreamed he’d actually be in a place his heroes played and only occasionally saw on TV.
Comerica Park in Detroit, MI
Soon after college in 1980 I embarked on my professional career and was introduced to the glory and misery of corporate business travel to faraway cities. Thankfully, nearly all had major league baseball teams that were at home during my visits.
That’s when I began my lifelong hobby of collecting major league baseball stadiums. Not physically of course, although I do have many photos and souvenirs in my home, but as fond memories tucked away in the corners of my mind. To me, there is nothing better than getting off by myself in some faraway city to catch a game under the lights after a long day of dealing with demanding clients and irritable colleagues.
In August of this year, I finally finished up. I recently visited Dodger Stadium in Los Angeles and thus completed what I call my lifetime grand slam, visiting the home ballparks of all 30 major league teams. To be honest, I have not yet been to a couple of the newer stadiums, but I have been to all 30 major league cities and their home parks at the time, so I’m counting it!
To me, this was a great achievement. But I’ve come to learn it might not be so great after all and certainly not unique. Thousands of people have completed this quest. They are called “ball park chasers.” They even have a website: (ballparkchasers.com).
The world record is a breathtaking 30 parks in 24 days by a fellow named Chuck Booth in 2009. He had to do some East coast day/night doubleheaders to achieve that number. I’ll bet he’s also single.
He has my respect. I completed my lifetime quest just a few parks at a time. It was only after I retired a few years ago that I actually took what you might call a baseball trip—a grueling eight-day, six-ballpark drive around the Midwest to catch the “fly over” parks. My wife went with me. She may never be the same.
In the last couple of years, I’ve also scheduled mini vacations with pals to finish up cities I had somehow missed along the way. This included quick 2-day forays to Detroit, Denver, Arlington, TX, and Los Angeles.
Busch Stadium in St. Louis
Before I give you my Top 10 list, let’s get one thing out of the way: I didn’t really like the two oldest parks and the most storied one. Sacrilegious? Maybe, but that’s how I feel. Despite improvements made along the way, Fenway Park (1912) in Boston and Wrigley Field (1914) in Chicago, feel their ages. The seats are small and sometimes not positioned correctly. Concourses tend to be narrow and the fan bases can be, shall we say, overly exuberant. One of Wrigley Field’s concourses even sits underground, which gave me a feeling of claustrophobia.
Yankee Stadium in New York has a corporate feel to it. It’s hard to explain. It’s like they tried too hard to mimic old Yankee Stadium in every way. Lines are long and the food is very expensive. Unfortunately, the fan base takes obnoxiousness to a whole new level making the game-day experience for visitors and families poor at best.
Gary Bennett at Globe Life Field in Arlington, Texas
MY TOP TEN BALLPARKS
10. Target Field – Minneapolis, MN – Minnesota Twins The park is downtown with a terrific cityscape. I loved the statues of Twins’ greats on the concourses and the big sign in center field featuring their original logo: one player representing Minneapolis, the other representing St. Paul, shaking hands over the Mississippi River. Wonderful!
9. American Family Field – Milwaukee, WI – Milwaukee Brewers This park has a cool roof, brats, and Bernie Brewer coming down a slide when a home run is hit. Unfortunately, the park is not in downtown or it would be higher on my list. The very best part: The crowd exuberantly singing “Roll Out the Barrell” complete with accordion accompaniment during the seventh inning stretch!
8. Coors Field – Denver, CO – Colorado Rockies This park is one of the best with stunning views of the Rocky Mountains and a great, natural park-like feature inside the stadium that includes trees and a stream. Even in mid-July the air is so fresh and clean that you hate to leave.
Coors Field in Denver
7. T-Mobile Park – Seattle WA – Seattle Mariners The site of this year’s All-Star Game is tucked in next to the city’s football stadium and a train depot and has an operating train within the park. It’s a downtown park with great views of Puget Sound. It has what looks like a giant umbrella atop the park. That gives it an open-air feel even when the roof is closed.
6. Busch Stadium – St. Louis, MO – St. Louis Cardinals This park features the very best cityscape in all of baseball. You just can’t beat the view of the gateway arch and the feeling of smallness you get when you gaze upon it during the game. This park does a wonderful job of depicting its abundant history, too. Cardinals’ games are always sold out so the energy in the stadium is amazing, but it can feel crowded.
5. Petco Park – San Diego, CA – San Diego Padres A beautiful park in the heart of San Diego’s Gaslamp district. The cityscape is just about unmatched. The incorporation of the iron company façade in left field, which the park was built around, was a master stroke that gives the park character. The park also has the major’s second-best steak sandwich, just after Philadelphia.
4. Dodger Stadium – Los Angeles, CA – Los Angeles Dodgers This is the third oldest park still operating (1962) but it doesn’t feel it. Overlooking the San Gabriel Mountains, it provides stunning views from all over the stadium. There’s sort of a coolness to being at a Dodger’s game that is palpable and unmatched anywhere else. The Dodger Dog really is the best in all the majors.
3. Oriole Park at Camden Yards – Baltimore, MD – Baltimore Orioles What can you say about my home park? It really is amazing. I made it to this gem of a stadium just a few weeks after the inaugural game and looked on approvingly at the warehouse, Utah Street, flag court, and Boog’s Barbeque. Simply mesmerizing! When the O’s are hot, there’s no better place to catch a game.
2. PNC Park – Pittsburgh, PA – Pittsburgh Pirates This park features a beautiful cityscape, but this one is notable for incorporating the Pirates’ gold and black colors on nearby bridges and buildings. It nestles up nicely against the Allegheny River. Since it is a relatively small stadium, all the seats are terrific. You almost feel a part of the action. It’s just a shame the Pirates have fallen on perpetual hard times. When they are good, the place really rocks.
1. Oracle Park – San Francisco, CA – San Francisco Giants For me, there is just no better place to catch a game than stunning Oracle Park. It is nestled up so close to McCovey Cove that home runs splash into the bay just about every game. The food is creative. The weather, perfect. It’s the best walk around the park of them all. Stadium is a pleasant, easy walk from downtown.
MY WORST FIVE STADIUMS
Tropicana Field – St. Petersburg, FL – Tampa Bay Rays Just a terrible place for a game. A non-retractable domed stadium, it is dark and dank and lacks any kind of energy from the sparse fans.
Ring Central Coliseum – Oakland, CA – Oakland A’s Just a horrible, mostly empty stadium set inexplicably in an industrial area. The seats are set much too far away from the field. No wonder the team is contemplating a move to Las Vegas.
Guaranteed Rate Field – Chicago, IL – Chicago White Sox Set in the southside of Chicago, the neighborhood is not the best and there’s not much to do after the game. The stadium has a steep design that makes you feel far away from the action.
Nationals Park – Washington, DC – Washington Nationals A big, impersonal park with no views of the monuments. What were they thinking? Unfortunately, the Nats lost their Senators history when the franchise relocated to Texas.
Angels Stadium – Anaheim, CA – Los Angeles Angels The stadium is not only in the middle of nowhere, but it takes forever in hellish LA traffic to get there. The boulder feature beyond the centerfield fence seems pointless and has nothing to do with LA.
MOST INTERESTING FOOD ITEMS (I’VE TRIED THEM ALL) Poutine – Toronto Blue Jays Dodger Dog – LA Dodgers BBQ Burger – Kansas City Royals Donut Burger – Philadelphia Philles Slider Dog w/Fruit Loops – Cleveland Guardians 4-Way Chili – Cincinnati Reds The Mega Slice – St. Louis Cardinals Prime Rib Sandwich – Houston Astros Fried Dough Sundae – Boston Red Sox Wisconsin Ultimate Cheese Fries – Milwaukee Brewers Pierogi/Kielbasa Cone – Pittsburgh Pirates 18-Inch Hotdog – Arizona Diamondbacks Crab Cakes/Boog’s BBQ – Baltimore Orioles Peanut Butter & Bacon Sandwich – Minnesota Twins Triple Threat Pork Sandwich – San Diego Padres
Ellen Bennett at Kaufmann Stadium in Kansas City, MO.
CHRONOLOGICAL LIST OF MY TRAVELS TO THE PARKS
8/16/67 – Memorial Stadium – Baltimore, MD New York Yankees vs. Baltimore Orioles It took forever to wind our way through Baltimore to get to this mammoth monument to World War II. I made about 25 other trips to this stadium including the final game played there on October 6, 1991.
5/1/78 – Three Rivers Stadium – Pittsburgh, PA San Diego Padres vs. Pittsburgh Pirates The game is memorable for being a fun boy’s trip near the end of the college year and the Iron City beer vendor yelling “Willie Stargell dips his bat in it.”
4/18/92 – Oriole Park at Camden Yards – Baltimore, MD Detroit Tigers vs. Baltimore Orioles I still remember the pride I felt looking out at this glorious new ballpark. The B&O warehouse made it seem cozy. I’ve now been to this park about 50 times including the ’93 All-Star Game.
4/15/98 – Joe Robbie Stadium – Miami Gardens, FL Philadelphia Phillies vs. Florida Marlins I was attending a conference in Hollywood, FL, so I drove over to this huge football stadium for a day game. It was orange, big and empty.
4/24/01 – Chase Field – Phoenix, AZ Florida Marlins vs. Arizona Diamondbacks I was in Phoenix for a national sales meeting. The stadium is right next to the basketball arena and in a very nice entertainment district. The outfield pool is nice, too.
6/9/04 – Anaheim Stadium (or ”The Big A”) – Anaheim, CA Milwaukee Brewers vs. Anaheim Angels This trip is memorable because my then 14-year old son and I drove down from Disneyland to attend a game. Stadium is in the middle of nowhere and only so-so.
6/18/05 – Tropicana Field – St. Petersburg, FL St. Louis Cardinals vs. Tampa Bay Devil Rays (now Rays) I’ve been to this stadium several times since my wife and I like to vacation in Sarasota about 40 miles away. Terrible stadium. The dome appears oddly tilted from the outside and it famously leaks.
10/6/05 – Turner Field – Atlanta, GA Houston Astros vs. Atlanta Braves Memorable, because it was a playoff game, which shows how easy it is to buy one seat at any park at any time. I was in town to visit a vendor. I don’t like the tomahawk chop.
5/20/07 – Wrigley Field – Chicago, IL Chicago White Sox vs. Chicago Cubs I was in town working at a large medical conference when I got a ticket to this cross-town rivalry game in the major’s second-oldest ballpark.
5/4/08 – Guaranteed Rate Field – Chicago, IL Anaheim Angels vs. Chicago White Sox This visit was part of our 25th wedding anniversary getaway. (Not one of my finest moments.) Stadium is on the south side, and yes, it really is the baddest part of town.
7/19/09 – New Yankee Stadium – Bronx, NY Detroit Tigers vs. New York Yankees This game is memorable because it was the centerpiece of an epic baseball weekend with my then 19-year-old son. We also visited Cooperstown, New York, home of the baseball Hall of Fame.
6/23/10 – Citi Field – Queens, NY Detroit Tigers vs. New York Mets I was in Manhattan for a conference so rode the subway over for a game. I was pleasantly surprised. The stadium does a nice job representing its considerable history. The arches are nice, too.
9/9/10 – Rogers Centre (originally Skydome) – Toronto, Ontario Texas Rangers vs. Toronto Blue Jays I was in town exhibiting at a convention. The stadium is kind of bland inside but is situated in downtown with a great view of CN Tower. The singing of “Oh Canada” is stirring!
4/14/12 – T-Mobile Park – Seattle, WA Oakland A’s vs. Seattle Mariners I attended this game with a work colleague while at a conference in Seattle. A gorgeous stadium with retractable roof and wonderful food.
5/22/13 – Fenway Park – Boston, MA Cleveland Indians vs. Boston Red Sox I was in town for a business meeting so of course I had to make the pilgrimage over to the oldest major league ballpark. The Green Monster wall in left field is the most interesting quirk in modern baseball and the “Sweet Caroline” singalong is awesome in person!
6/23/14 – Citizens Bank Park – Philadelphia, PA Miami Marlins vs. Philadelphia Phillies Not sure why it took me so long to get up to Philly. This is a very nice park but in a rough part of town. I love the Liberty Bell replica in centerfield… and, of course, the cheesesteaks.
8/16/14 – Oakland Alameda Coliseum (now Ring Central Coliseum) – Oakland, CA Tampa Bay Devil Rays vs. Oakland A’s I drove down from a business trip in Medford, Oregon. This game is only memorable because I missed my return flight to Baltimore because of it.
5/6/15 – Oracle Park – San Francisco, CA San Diego Padres vs. San Francisco Giants I was in town for a conference and brought my wife along for a day game. Aha, I found it! The best park in the land. I could definitely live here and still make use of my O’s orange and black regalia.
8/16/16 – Nationals Park – Washington, DC Baltimore Orioles vs. Washington Nationals This game is memorable because I walked over from my office in D.C. to meet my 26-year-old son for an O’s game. I distinctly remember the O’s winning 10-8 and him outdrinking me 3-2. Or, was it the other way around?
5/18/17 – Minute Maid Park – Houston, TX Cleveland Indians vs. Houston Astros My wife and I drove to Houston from San Antonio where I was attending a conference. The stadium is quirky and fun. It features a very short porch in left field and an actual incline in centerfield, now (thankfully) removed.
5/10/18 – Petco Park, San Diego, CA Texas Rangers vs. San Diego Padres I’ve been to this stadium a few times since San Diego is a popular convention destination. Loved it every time! One of the best. Could live here, too.
7/20/19 – PNC Park – Pittsburgh, PA Philadelphia Phillies vs. Pittsburgh Pirates One of the few times I visited this city just for a game. I remember it was extremely hot throughout the game, but that didn’t dim my appreciation for this beautiful park.
7/21/21 – Great American Ballpark – Cincinnati, OH New York Mets vs. Cincinnati Reds This was the first game of a summer Midwest swing. Six cities in eight days. Best part of this stadium is its location: snuggled right up against the Ohio River. The famous 3- and 4-way chili is nice, too.
7/22/21 – Busch Stadium – St. Louis, MO New York Mets vs. St. Louis Cardinals Game two of our Midwest swing. It was a scorcher of a day, but this beautiful stadium with the gateway arch standing guard beyond the stadium was well worth the visit.
7/23/21 – Kaufmann Stadium, Kansas City, MO Detroit Tigers vs. Kansas City Royals Game three of our Midwest swing. The park is undeniably beautiful especially with the iconic water fountains ringing the outfield and spouting almost continuously. But it is way out of town.
7/24/21 – Target Field – Minneapolis, MN Los Angeles Angels vs. Minnesota Twins Game four of our Midwest swing. Love the statues, walkways and summer weather.
7/25/21 – American Family Field – Milwaukee, WI Chicago White Sox vs. Milwaukee Brewers Game five of our Midwest swing. Love the roof, beer selection, Bernie Brewer and brats. Only downside is the park is well outside of town.
7/27/21 – Progressive Field – Cleveland, OH St. Louis Cardinals vs. Cleveland Guardians The final leg of our 2021 Midwest swing. This downtown stadium features an attractive light coloring on the outside and outstanding city views on the inside. It even features Flo of Progressive Insurance fame.
5/13&5/14/22 – Comerica Park – Detroit, MI Baltimore Orioles vs. Detroit Tigers This was a buddy’s weekend trip to see our beloved Orioles and to help complete this city. The park is OK, but nothing special. The best feature is the roaring Tiger when the home team does something good.
7/16/22 – Coors Field – Denver, CO Pittsburgh Pirates vs. Colorado Rockies This was another buddy’s trip to see our second favorite team and to complete another missed city. Love the mountain views and cool, crisp mile-high air.
4/3/23 – Globe Life Field – Arlington, TX Baltimore Orioles vs. Texas Rangers This was yet another buddy’s outing to see the O’s and mark off another city. (I have a very understanding wife.) Stadium is odd because they built it next door to the old stadium, which is still standing and in use by a college team.
8/19/23 – Dodger Stadium – Los Angeles, CA Miami Marlins vs. Los Angeles Dodgers My final stadium! My wife and I took a whirlwind weekend trip to finish up my baseball stadium quest. Beautiful, mature stadium with great mountain views. They even gave me a certificate!
HOW PARKS ARE NAMED
Team name: 5 Oriole Park, Yankee Stadium, Angels Stadium, Nationals Park, Dodger Stadium Owner’s name: 5 Rogers Center, Kauffman Stadium, Turner Field, Joe Robbie Stadium, Busch Stadium Insurance Companies: 5 Progressive Field, Guaranteed Rate Field, Globe Life Field, Great American Ballpark, American Family Field Bank/Finance: 5 Comerica Park, Citizen’s Bank Park, Citi Field, PNC Park, Chase Field Food: 4 Tropicana Field, Minute Maid Park, Wrigley Field, Coors Field Locale: 3 Fenway Park, Camden Yards, Three Rivers Stadium Telecom: 3 T-Mobile Park, Ring Central Coliseum, Oracle Park Retail: 2 Target Field, Petco Park
Central Maryland is just a stone’s throw away from beaches, big cities, bucolic countryside, iconic rivers and trails, Revolutionary and Civil War history and, of course, the oldest mountains in America.
We are all trying hard to maneuver the hottest summer on record here in the lowlands, but like me, you might just be ready to plan your escape to the cooler climes of our nearby mountains.
The mountains of Western Maryland are easy to get to but small. The ones in West Virginia are larger and more rugged but too far away for a quick trip. Luckily, we have the Blue Ridge Mountains in Virginia right next door. Nothing says mountain retreat more to me than a weekend getaway to Shenandoah National Park in Virginia in the heart of the Blue Ridge.
Shenandoah National Park covers 311 square miles in Northen Virgina from Front Royal to Waynesboro, encompassing 196,000 acres of pristine wilderness. It was established in 1935 and designed for everyday Americans in their new-fangled motor cars to experience the allure and grandeur of the mountains. The peaks range from about 2,000 feet at the beginning and end of the park to 3,700 feet near the middle at aptly-named Skyland near Thorofare Mountain. Small, when compared to the Rocky Mountains, but much older.
Shenandoah is a long and relatively skinny park that boasts world-famous Skyline Drive. It is the focus and hopping off point for all the best park attractions. A national scenic byway, Skyline Drive is Shenandoah National Park for most people. It famously meanders back and forth across the tops of the peaks and runs right down the center of the park for over 100 miles.
Skyline Drive is famous for providing access to beautiful mountain vistas that would otherwise be unobtainable for most of us. You’ll want to take advantage of over 75 scenic overlooks with names like Gooney Run, Hogwallow Flats, Stoney Man, Hawksbill Gap and Naked Creek. You will be tempted to stop at each one to take in all the sights, sounds and fresh air. You’ll see the Shenandoah River and Shenandoah Valley to the west and the rolling hills of the Virginia piedmont to the east.
It will take you about three hours to leisurely cover the 100 plus miles from start to finish. But it is well worth it. You won’t feel a need to go any faster than the 35 mile-per-hour speed limit or honk at the motorist ahead of you as you roll along. I swear I can feel my blood pressure decreasing and sensory perception increasing every time I make this drive.
Shortly after entering the park in Front Royal, stop at Dickey Ridge Visitor Center to get your bearings and to pick up a few snacks. Next, take advantage of the many scenic overlooks I mentioned. A particular favorite of mine is Hogback Overlook, looking west to the valley and George Washington National Forest. If you’d like to stretch your legs, try Hawksbill Summit, which rewards you with a couple of hidden waterfalls and breathtaking peak that is easy to climb. Many Skyline Drive trails connect with the Appalachian Trail.
Please note there is a fee to enter the park whether you are staying or simply driving through. As of this writing, the fee for a private car is $30, which includes unlimited entry and exit for up to seven days. Throughout the year there are some free days. Consult https://www.goshenandoah.com/ for more information.
One of nearly 100 breathtaking overlooks on Skyline Drive.
Getting There:
It couldn’t be easier to get to Shenandoah National Park.
Simply drive west and then south on Route 340 right out of Frederick for about an hour and a half, covering about 70 miles to the doorstep of the park in Front Royal, Virginia. No other roads are necessary. Along the way, you’ll enjoy peaceful country scenery, plentiful farm stands and country stores, the charm of Charlestown, WV, and Winchester, VA, and more beautiful red maple trees and mountain laurel than you can count.
When to Go:
This is completely up to you because every season offers something spectacular. You simply can’t go wrong.
Spring comes late to this part of the country and a definite chill fills the air until late-May. It has been known to snow as late as early June.
Summer brings a shining clarity to all the deep greens in the ridges and hollows. Birds are nesting and seem to sing non-stop from early morning to early evening. Skies are clear blue with white puffy clouds seeping in around the peaks.
Autumn is prime time at Shenandoah National Park. A coolness and crispness fills the air. Brilliant fall colors seem to burst from the trees. Hikers abound. Birds are at their most active preparing for their southward migration.
Even winter offers a quiet snow-covered stillness that is hard to forget.
What to Do:
One can do very little at the park and feel completely content. Stop along the side of Skyline Drive at one of the many picnic areas and enjoy a quiet lunch. Curl up in your cabin with a favorite book. Snooze the day away at one of many comfy loungers available at camps and visitor’s center.
For the more adventurous among us you can hike on over 500 miles of trails including the Appalachian Trail, which cuts a large swath through the park.
Waterfall chasing and bird watching during the day and star gazing at night are two of the more popular activities.
I highly recommend taking in any programs the numerous park rangers offer. Their knowledge and love of the park is palpable, plus, they have all the best stories to tell.
At the two park resorts, Skyland and Big Meadows, you can take advantage of expertly prepared programs. Note that some are free when staying at the resorts and some require paying an extra fee. Again, consult https://www.goshenandoah.com/ for more information.
Some of our favorite activities besides hiking and finding hidden waterfalls include:
Map and compass navigation – guides take away your technology and you must fend for yourself. Don’t worry, you can do it.
Horseback riding – it’s about $60 for one hour at Skyland, but trust me, one hour will be enough time to see the sights from a whole new perspective.
Rock climbing – don’t worry, they have excursions (and rocks) appropriate for both novices and experts.
Basket-making – a local artisan will lead you in making your very own white oak basket.
The ever-popular whiskey and wine shuttle takes you down to the lowlands to relax, partake and listen to stories about the park along the way.
You are high enough to appreciate the clouds from their tops.
Where to Stay
Shenandoah National Park features varied lodging options sure to satisfy every taste – from back-country camping to city-slicker glamping. If you wish, you can pitch a tent in the back country or stay at a spacious, luxurious lodge at one of the two park resorts — Skyland or Big Meadows.
The park also has four main campgrounds that are operated by the National Park Service and are open spring through fall:
Mathews Arm Campground (at mile 22.2)
Big Meadows Campground (at mile 51)
Lewis Mountain Campground (at mile 57.2)
Loft Mountain Campground (at mile 79.5)
Skyland resort is about 41 miles into your trip on Skyline Drive and is located at the park’s highest peak, about 3,700 feet high.
Big Meadows resort is located just a few miles down the road from Skyland and is just a bit lower in elevation. It does feature beautiful Dark Hollows Falls and the handy Byrd Visitor Center.
Lodging at both resorts range from premium hotel-like rooms and suites to small, detached cabins. They even have pet friendly rooms.
Summer prices range from about $150 per night for a cabin with two double beds and very few amenities to about $400 a night for a preferred room with all the amenities you’d expect at a fine hotel. Seniors 62 and older receive a 10 percent discount. Military members and first responders also qualify for special rates. Prices go up a bit in the fall.
I recommend you go with a rustic cabin to get a better mountain retreat experience. Some rooms have TVs and some don’t. Ditch the TV and other technology and instead play a board game to pass the evening, at least until it’s time to star gaze.
Of course, you’ll want a fireplace, especially in the spring or fall. There is nothing better than collapsing into your comfy bed after a day of hiking and starting a cozy fire in your very own fireplace. Unfortunately, in-room fireplaces are unavailable for the 2023 season due to an ongoing rehabilitation project.
The Appalachian Trail cuts a wide swath through the park.
What to Eat
Suffice it to say that you won’t go hungry at the four campgrounds, which are well supplied with nearby camp stores, or at the two resorts.
Skyland and Big Meadows feature several pleasing dining options.
Skyland’s Pollock Dining Room serves regional, flavorful specialties like wild game with wonderful views of the Shenandoah Valley. The spacious dining room is wood-paneled and smells amazing. And don’t miss out on the house specialty desert — Mile-High Blackberry Ice Cream Pie!
There’s also a Grab ‘n Go market and the Mountain Taproom for snacks, drinks and live entertainment in a casual setting.
At Big Meadows Lodge, Spottswood Dining Room guests can enjoy dishes like Roosevelt’s roasted or fried chicken (named after the president who dedicated the park) or the New Deal roast turkey plate. Outdoor patio seating is now available.
The New Market Taproom provides craft beer, local wines, snacks and live entertainment. Or, you can order lunch to go at the front desk.
As you drive along after your stay, whether it be north or south, several waysides will keep you well fed, gassed up and ready to buy souvenirs:
Elkswallow Wayside (at mile 24.)
Big Meadows Wayside (at mile 51)
Loft Mountain Wayside (at mile 79)
Sunset over the Shenandoah Valley and George Washington National Forest.
Just like Las Vegas and Washington, D.C., Niagara Falls is pretty much a one industry town. But oh, what an industry!
It’s typical to think of Niagara Falls as quintessentially American—the one-time de facto destination for newlywed couples from all over America. And part of it is in America, but the main city of Niagara Falls is completely within Ontario, Canada, along with most of the actual falls, too. The Canadian Niagara Falls city is larger than you might expect with over 94,000 full-time residents, making it just a little larger than Frederick. Across the river, Niagara Falls, New York, is the little sister with a population of about 48,000,
When you saunter down just about any street in Niagara Falls, Ontario, as long as you’re headed downhill, you’ll eventually come upon “The Falls.” That’s what all the locals call it and what all the signs proclaim in caps.
The first glimpse is absolutely breathtaking.
Horseshoe Falls, Canada — the main part of Niagara Falls
The mist emanating from The Falls makes it difficult to see the bottom. The roar is deafening and the mist is omnipresent even relatively far away. The falling water provides a perpetual breeze, much like the ocean. Temperatures can be 10 degrees cooler than in the center of the city. The Falls have eaten away at the banks of the Niagara River to form a very wide, deep gorge.
You’ll be surprised that there are actually three falls within sight.
There is American Falls, the medium-sized one that features a rocky bottom, the smaller Bridal Veil Falls, so named because of what it sauggests, and the large, picturesque Horseshoe Falls, the one we see in our mind and the one perfectly shaped like a horseshoe. Horseshoe Falls is entirely within Canada. American and Bridal Veil Falls are on the American side. The Niagara River famously separates Canada and the U.S. at this point.
American Falls, New York, USA — part of Niagara Falls
It is estimated there are about 500 waterfalls in the world that are taller than Niagara Falls, but there is none that accounts for such a heavy volume of water. It is estimated that over 75,000 gallons of water head over the falls each second.
Niagara Falls was formed eons ago by the Niagara River cascading over very hard rock while perpetually eating away at the softer bedrock further downstream. The collision is so intense that an ever-growing gorge has been formed. Experts say that American Falls will lose its waterfall status and become just a series of rapids in the not-too-distant future.
And yes, many daredevils since the 1920s have attempted to ride over The Falls in barrels and other strange contraptions. Many have made it but some have died. This activity is now illegal in both counties. You might remember that Nic Wallenda had special permission to traverse The Falls by tightrope about a decade ago and made it. Thankfully.
Getting there
Getting to Niagara Falls is relatively easy. One can fly, of course. Niagara Falls International Airport features carriers such as Spirit and Allegiance leaving from Baltimore. Or, you can fly into Buffalo fairly inexpensively on many carriers, but then it is still a 30-minute ride to Niagara Falls.
I love road trips so I recommend driving to Niagara Falls.
From Frederick, it’s about 400 miles or a relatively short, scenic 6.5-hour drive mostly up Route 15 North past Gettysburg, Harrisburg and Williamsport, Pennsylvania, and on to Rochester, New York. Hang a left in Rochester on Route 90 and, before you know it, you’re driving past Buffalo to the Canadian border.
You will cross the aptly named Peace Bridge from the U.S. into Canada. No two countries share such a large, peaceful border. Have your passports ready. Agents are friendly but busy. They may ask you where you are from and where you are going. Practice this. Don’t do as I did and fumble over your words! They may also ask you to roll down your windows for a better look inside. Be ready for this, too. Don’t have all your windows going up and down at the same time like me. No doubt I was lucky to be admitted.
When we drove to The Falls in early June, it was off-season. I highly recommend this time of year or even a bit earlier. Lines are relatively short and hotel rooms are plentiful. Be ready for slow service, though. Going in the winter or fall affords the same advantages but the weather can be sketchy—think lake-effect snow. The Falls are undeniably beautiful in the winter too, since much of it freezes.
Things are expensive as in most resort towns, and you’ll be paying in Canadian dollars, which makes things seem even more expense. Be sure to use your credit or debit card to pay for everything. Let your bank figure out the exchange rate.
View from one of many nearby hotel rooms
What To Do
There are many things to keep you occupied at The Falls other than staring in awe at the cascading water. But don’t worry, the attractions are not as kitschy as you might expect, only pleasingly so.
There are two sides to The Falls – the American and Canadian. The American side, somehow, has remained mostly under-developed and natural. There are some exceptions, of course. The Canadian side, however, is where you’ll find most of the action.
The city has done a wonderful job of making The Falls area quite pedestrian friendly. There is the requisite visitor center on one end near Horseshoe Falls — complete with movie theater, restaurant, overlook vantage points, a restaurant, and shops – and the entrance to scenic tours and the province (not state) park near American Falls at the other end.
I highly recommend a trip on the Maid of the Mist on the American side or its counterpart, the Hornblower, on the Canadian. These boats will cruise you past American and Bridal Veil Falls and right up to the mouth of Horseshoe Falls. They leave every 30 minutes.
Full disclosure: you will get drenched from the heavy mist near the base of The Falls, but you’ll love every minute of it! Besides, you will be outfitted with a handsome, complimentary slicker before departing. The trip out and back to Horseshoe Falls takes only about 20 minutes since you depart within eyesight of The Falls. The trip costs about $28 Canadian for adults and $16 Canadian for kids. Children under five are free.
Another worthwhile endeavor is “Journey Behind the Falls.” It is well named. You descend by elevator several stories below the welcome center and make your way through a manmade tunnel to two viewpoints behind The Falls and to an observation deck beside the base of The Falls.
View from base of The Falls
Be forewarned that if you are claustrophobic, you will not like the long walk in the tunnels. I preferred the view below and beside The Falls on the observation deck to suitably represent its sheer power and magnitude. The view behind The Falls at the two 50-foot cut out portals reminded me more of looking out the window on a very stormy day. There was not too much you could see. Journey Behind the Falls costs $24 Canadian for adults and $16 Canadian for kids.
From just about any hotel room near The Falls you can enjoy the nightly illumination in multi colors at dusk and fireworks at 10 pm. This was a highlight of our trip. It is striking to see so much color and power at the same time. And it was free!
One thing I wish I had done is visit The Falls overnight. Horseshoe Falls reportedly becomes a dribble from midnight to about 5 am due to the diversion of the rushing water to nearby electricity-generating power plants.
A few new and expensive attractions have been added in the last several years.
There is now a zip line that hurtles passengers on a ride of about a quarter of a mile beside The Falls. It was entertaining listening to the shrieks of the passengers as they glided by. Cost: about $70 Canadian per person.
Skylon Tower is a 520-foot tower you can ascend by elevator for an unparalleled view. At the top you can enjoy a rotating restaurant. And yes, try the poutine. Cost: about $55 Canadian per person but if you eat at the restaurant, it is free.
Falls View Casino sits right beside The Falls gorge and offers all you would expect from a casino. And like many resort towns, Niagara Falls also has a large Ferris wheel or “eye” to ride and view The Falls.
Finally, I recommend taking a side trip to the town of Niagara on the Lake during your stay in Canada. It is a pleasant 20-minute drive north to Lake Ontario and this pretty little town of about 20,000. There, you’ll find quaint shops and eateries, numerous wineries, clean streets, manicured parks, friendly people and beautiful, colorful flowers planted all around town.
Be careful! You can stand mere feet away from impending doom.
“You do want sweet tea, right sugah?” the slightly overweight, middle-aged waitress drawled as I sunk into my comfy booth at Stuckey’s just off Interstate 59 in southern Alabama. “Oh yes, sweet tea would be great”, I said, as she scribbled in het ticket book. “That’s a good thing, sugah,” Doris said, “because you’re in the South now and that’s all we got.” I overlooked the logic of that statement much as you would overlook your mom asking you to wear clean shorts in the car because you never know when you’ll be in an accident. It might not make sense, but she means well.
Ah yes, Doris’s sweetness reminded me there’s nothing
like a good road trip.
Once the bastion of the middle class, Americans of all stripes are now loading up the family car for getaways far and wide. According to U.S. Travel Association, Americans logged 1.8 billion person‐trips of 50 miles a more with an overnight stay for leisure purposes in 2018. That means that, on average, every man, woman, and child in the U.S. took five such leisure trips in 2018.
There used to be a bit of a stigma attached to
traveling long distances by car, especially if you fancied yourself upwardly
mobile with a little bit of money in the bank and are traveling more than a few
hundred miles. After all, why wouldn’t you fly?
Saves a lot of time, right? Well,
sort of. More on that in a minute. Kind
of glamorous, right? Uh, no.
I’m sorry to confirm what you already know in your heart about air travel: there is nothing glamorous about it, and it comes with monumental downsides. First, there’s the expense. Second, the inconvenience. Third, the angst of finding the best deal. Then throw in all the idle time waiting in lines, constant delays, surly agents, glum and germy strangers, crowded conditions, random cancellations, weather problems, terrorist threats, seats designed by Marquis de Sade worshipers, bad food, and nothing being in control, and I’m not sure why anyone flies who doesn’t have to. As for saving time, once you factor in getting to the airport, all the waiting and delays, transfers, and getting a rental car and driving to your final destination, the time savings gap closes up faster than a liquor store on Christmas Eve.
I’m here to witness that if God intended us to fly everywhere, he wouldn’t have created the magnificent U.S. Interstate Highway System, or more precisely, provided the wherewithal for humans to create it. Our interstate system efficiently gets us into every nook and cranny of our great country with very little planning needed. It puts a map of the human body’s circulation system to shame.
If you have the notion and time, you can start off early tomorrow morning from Frederick and be in sunny Tampa, Florida, by night fall. I’ve done that myself many times. Our country is just the right size for such escapades – neither too large nor too small. I envy all those adventurous souls who claim to have driven coast to coast. That’s not such a big deal in, say, Croatia.
My wife Ellen and I wanted to do something special for New Year’s Eve last year, so we made plans to drive 2,200 miles round-trip from Frederick to New Orleans. What better place to solemnly celebrate the beginning of the new year than New Orleans, right?
We could have flown, sure, but didn’t even consider it. Okay, I’m sure Ellen did. After all, I’m not the world’s best driver, as she will attest. But in my defense, I am cheerful and quite enthusiastic. The call of the open road and chance for adventure is just too great for me to pass up. And to my wife’s lasting credit, she is usually willing to overlook the small stuff with me, much as you would a child.
Now, you can’t just head off without a plan. I have several “rules of the road” that I’ve found are necessary in order to make the most of one’s road trip and to bring order to what can be a chaotic endeavor. I am happy to share them here.
My first driving rule is fairly minor but unassailable: the driver controls the music. This may seem unfair (and maybe it is because I drive most of the way) but consider the fact that I, like many drivers, depend on pounding rock music to help propel me down the road. If this were not so, there would be no such things as road trip songs. Further, I believe it has been scientifically proven the nerves in our ears are directly connected to our gas pedal foot.
Why, Sirius XM even has a channel devoted to road trip music. All-time favorites like Steppenwolf’s Born to be Wild and Magic Carpet Ride and Bruce Springsteen’s Born to Run are guaranteed to keep you moving along at a clip just under speeding ticket level. It helps that my wife enjoys the same music I do. I think. Anyway, I’m not a total despot. All Ellen has to do is start bobbing away to a song she likes and I will immediately vacate my rule on a temporary basis and stick with that song for the duration. Bruce Hornsby songs, inexplicably, are a particular favorite of hers.
My second driving rule allows the passenger to control the in-car temperature and to decide when and where to stop. Unless a really good song comes on.
Pike’s Peak, Colorado
You may think that driving long distances is excruciatingly boring. Hah! (I mean, yes, you’re right – please stay off the roads.) But, my third driving rule helps overcome the boredom: You must always consider the people who live and work in the towns and cities you pass by and get to know a few. How do they live? What do they care about?
Fortunately, the need for gas, food, and shall we say “rest” provide ample opportunity to converse with the locals. That’s how I’ve made so many temporary friends over the years – mostly waitresses, convenience store clerks, and the occasional police officer – who are happy to share how they live, work, and what’s going on in town that week.
Take Crystal, our waitress at a New York-style deli in Roanoke, Virginia.
Imagine my surprise when I walked up to the cash register to pay our lunch bill with my credit card, as I always do, but was matter-of-factly informed by Crystal, “We don’t take credit cards—work of the devil. Cash or check only, sweetie.” She displayed no hint of sorrow or embarrassment and was more than happy to point me to the bar next door to access an ATM. “Happens every day,” she sighed while directing me outside. I think the irony was lost on her that she was sending me to a bar to avoid the hellfire of credit, but it wasn’t my job to point that out. I could have just left without paying, but flustered, I left her my credit card anyway to ensure my return.
Crystal was such a trusting soul, she seemed surprised I would do such a thing. But I wasn’t surprised. I’ve always found people in the South to be more trusting than their Northern counterparts. Maybe it’s the slower pace of life or maybe it’s because they are so nice. You’d feel really bad if you cross them, so you don’t.
My fourth driving rule is to always allow enough time to see a few local landmarks along the way. I’m a sucker for these. My two favorite landmarks on this particular trip were the Chattanooga Choo Choo in well, Chattanooga, Tennessee, and Main Street in the sister cities of Bristol, Tennessee and Bristol, Virginia.
In the case of the sisters, not only are they two next-door cities with coincidentally the same name, but you can stand on Main Street and straddle two states at once! I took advantage of this opportunity, of course. Since I’m 6’2” with long legs, I was able to stand with one foot in Tennessee and one in Virginia. People must do this all the time, so I didn’t feel bad about briefly stopping traffic.
Still, as nice as Southerners typically are, some grew impatient and blew their horns. This attracted the attention of a stern-looking deputy sheriff. When I saw him coming, I ran to the car. The deputy stopped to give me some good advice. “Son, you can’t block traffic like this. Pick one town or the other and get the hell on the sidewalk.”
Bemused, he told me about another place I could go. Literally, not figuratively. He must have researched this to help people like me. “You know, out West, there’s a place where four states come together – Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona. They call it the Four Corners, and you can put your arms and legs in all four at once! And better yet, it’s out in the middle of nowhere and far away from here.”
I got the feeling he had imparted this wisdom before.
My fifth driving rule is to always make a bad joke to a total stranger when you can. Makes time go faster. In Chattanooga I stopped at a 7-11 to ask the nice attendant where I could find the famous Chattanooga Choo Choo. On the way in, we saw signs promising it was close by. The attendant, Sidney, seemed ready and willing to help because he’d obviously been asked this question before. But as luck would have it, I had already spotted a cat lounging in the sun on the front sidewalk, and I was ready.
I strolled up to Sidney, pointed, and musically asked “Pardon me, sir, is that the cat that chewed my shoe shoe?”
I laughed loudly. My wife rolled her eyes and moved slowly away. I was pleased with myself, nonetheless. Even though my singing of the old song was spot on, Sidney gave me that classical cocked head, furrowed eyebrow “what-are-you-talking-about” look. I suppose you have to be of a certain age to get that one, and he wasn’t and didn’t.
There was one sign on the way to New Orleans, though, that particularly caught my eye and rivaled any South of the Border sign. It nearly caused me to swerve onto the shoulder and back up a couple hundred feet to snap a picture. Sadly, I didn’t – Ellen has a better sense of road etiquette than me. Somewhere in rural Tennessee an official looking state-sanctioned sign warns: Rest Stop Ahead, No Oversize Loads
My final driving rule is to pay attention to the signs. You never know when you’ll be rewarded with a nugget of golden wisdom. Aliens landing on one of our interstate highways would surely think “Crazy Eddy” is a very important person and that a “Gentleman’s Lounge” is the seat of power.
I’ll be the first to admit, however, that the signs on the way to New Orleans pale in comparison to the signs on the way to Florida on I-95. Sure, there was “Stay Off Tracks—Trains” and ‘Get Lunch, Gas, and Worms Here” in rural Mississippi. But I-95 in South Carolina has the venerable tourist trap South of the Border. It is a tour de force of politically incorrect creative signage like “Roads’ Scholar,” “No Monkey Business, Joost Yankee Panky” and “Give Pedro the Business.” But the very best one features their intrepid mascot Pedro who assures us that “You’ve Never Sausage a Place; You’re Always a Weiner at Pedro’s” complete with an image of a very large pork product representing their iffy lunch offerings.
There was a sign on the way to New Orleans, though, that particularly caught my eye and rivaled any South of the Border sign. It nearly caused me to swerve onto the shoulder and back up a couple hundred feet to snap a picture. Sadly, I didn’t. Somewhere in rural Tennessee, an official looking state-sanctioned sign warns: Rest Stop Ahead, No Oversize Loads
Now maybe it is just the way my mind works, but that hardly seems fair when every other exit features a Cracker Barrell, Stuckey’s, or Hardees. Even though I did qualify to stop, I indignantly decided to pass this one by.
My father-in-law thought he was a pretty good driver. After all, he’d been on the road for over 60 years. Well into his 80s, Pop chugged off from Cumberland every Monday morning to volunteer at a Baptist church camp on South Mountain in Frederick County. Sure, there were some minor fender benders along the way and few other close calls, but nothing serious.
Then one day he had a very serious accident near Boonsboro that injured him and totaled two cars. Thankfully the other driver was not badly hurt. No one was found at fault because witnesses provided differing accounts. After a lengthy hospital stay and some rehab, we came to learn that Pop was having difficulty turning his head to check blind spots. His slowing reflexes also made it difficult to react to changing traffic conditions and to move his foot from accelerator to brake quickly.
Even after all this, he was determined to return to the road, and he did, for a time. Much to our surprise, no authorities like the police, MVA or insurance company came for his keys. His daughters tried to talk him into giving up driving voluntarily, but he would not hear of it. Pop lived in a rural area with family far away and little to no public transportation options. Fiercely independent, he couldn’t imagine life without a car or asking neighbors for help.
Increasingly worried for his and others’ safety and unable to sway him, the daughters did what loving children do all over the country every day—they simply took away his keys.
In retrospect, this was not the thing to do. He was mad as a hornet, uncharacteristically so, and surprisingly resourceful. Pop simply got a ride to the dealership with title in hand and got another set of keys made. He continued driving but now with a mistrust of family that I’m not sure ever completely healed.
Our story is not unique. This scenario plays out across the country every day. For families everywhere, when to prevent an aging loved one from driving and possibly injuring themselves or others is a vexing issue.
For older adults, giving up the car keys means giving up independence and freedom of movement. They can no longer run to the hardware store on a whim or to that favorite restaurant for a quick bite. In their minds, they become beholden to others. They might become socially isolated. No one wants that for a loved one.
For my father-in-law, the answer came in the form of a hired companion and helper who was willing to take him where he wanted to go, when he wanted to go there. It helped that he liked this person and that she was doing her job, not doling out charity. It also helped that this gentle, giving man came to see that he could now donate his car to a someone more in need than him.
Of course, not every far-away family has the resources to hire a companion for their elderly loved one. That is why it is imperative to look for driving danger signs, research the alternative resources available and plan to have “the talk” long before it is needed.
Older Driver Danger Signs
First, ask neighbors if they have witnessed any issues with your loved one’s driving. Many scrapes and bumps can come from parking in one’s own driveway or garage.
Next, check for any driving citations or insurance notices that may have come in the mail.
Also be sure to check the car over every time you visit for new bumps, dents and scratches.
Above all, if possible, take a ride with your loved one to see for yourself how they drive.
Do they seem tentative or anxious, especially at night or in the rain?
Are they able to go the speed limit and not too fast or slow?
Do they make sudden turns or lane shifts?
Are they seeing and following road signs?
Do they forget where they are going or take a long and circuitous route getting there?
Do they have trouble turning their head or lifting their feet?
Can they stay in their lane?
Are they leaving ample space between themselves and other cars?
Do they have trouble with straight-in parking?
If you witness some of these actions on the same trip or one or two over many trips, it may be time for the talk.
Planning for the “Talk”
Even if your loved one is driving well right now, it doesn’t hurt to do your research and make plans for when they aren’t. If you’re one of the lucky ones, your loved one may give up driving on their own, especially after an accident or near miss. But, if you’re like most of us, you’ll have to make a strong but compassionate case for them to give up driving. It also doesn’t hurt to present some attractive options to take its place.
Introduce the driving conversation gradually over time so your loved one knows it is a concern.
Avoid confrontation and be positive and supportive. Try to find a solution together.
Gently remind them other drivers’ well-being and safety is at stake, not just your loved one’s.
Learn about your loved one’s overall transportation needs. You may be surprised to find that their use of the car is minor and manageable.
Remind your loved one how expensive it is to keep a car, and without it, how all that saved money can be used for other transportation options.
Understand the available community resources. Even if public transportation is scarce, there could be non-profits and religious or community organizations that will transport your loved one free of charge or for a nominal cost you could pay ahead of time.
Check with loved one’s friends, neighbors and colleagues to see if they would be willing to help or know of someone who could.
Check with the local senior services agency for no- and low-cost options.
If resources allow, hire a helper who can also be a driver. This doesn’t have to be an all-day thing. This person could come for just a few hours a day to help with appointments and errands.
Help your loved one learn to use a ridesharing app or how to call a cab.
Take advantage of drug, meal and grocery delivery.
Self-awareness is Key
If your loved one is still a decent driver and they are willing, you can help them take steps to minimize risks and improve their driving.
Ensure they have regular check-ups to test sight, hearing, muscle flexibility and mental acuity—all things needed for safe driving.
Remind them they shouldn’t drive if their medicine warns about operating heavy machinery.
Have them avoid driving at night or in bad weather if that is an issue.
Ask them to drive in the right lane at all times unless preparing to turn left.
Emphasize they should be able to drive the legal speed limit and avoid going too fast or too slow.
Make sure they know where they are going and their preferred route to get there before they head out.
Ask them to be a persistent, unapologetic turn signal user. This easy but underutilized act lets other drivers know their intentions.
Ask them to avoid driving during the morning and evening rush hours or at dawn or dusk when the sun may be in their eyes.
Space is their friend. Ask them to not crowd or tailgate. Space allows for minor errors to stay minor and not become critical.
Work to Improve
None of us are too old or experienced to improve our driving skills. Show them how and where they can work to improve. You may find they will welcome this help if it keeps them driving longer.
Ask them to assess their own driving skills. The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration has an online tool to help.
Ask them to get help from trusted organizations. The American Automobile Association (AAA), American Association of Retired Persons (AARP) and American Occupational Therapy Association (AOTA) offer driver safety courses geared to older Americans.
Worried Senior Male Driver Looking Through Car Windscreen
Gary Bennett is retired and spends his days providing daycare to grandchildren, volunteering, writing, and driving all around Frederick three days a week delivering prescriptions and observing drivers.
As you wind your way up stately Sideling Hill and through the iconic man-made cut in the mountain that jaggedly exposes millions of years of rock, coal and sediment, you’re finally able to see the picturesque valley of Allegany County as you begin your descent over the crest
This is the entrance to what the tourism folks now call “Mountain Maryland.” But for me, this place will always be home.
My wife and I spent our formative years in Allegany County. I grew up in the southwestern part of the county near Keyser, West Virginia. I went to high school in Westernport at now defunct Bruce High, and completed my undergraduate work at Frostburg State University. Ellen grew up just north of Cumberland and went to school at Fort Hill High, that notable state football powerhouse. As most of us know, this part of the state has fallen on perpetual, shall we say, less-than-stellar times. We wouldn’t want to live there anymore, but as they say, it’s a great place to visit.
My wife and I occasionally travel back home to eat, visit, sight see, and just plain decompress. In some ways it’s like a trip back in time. The pace of daily life is decidedly slow, traffic is nearly nonexistent, the scenery is absolutely beautiful, and the cost of food and lodging is much less than in the Frederick area. There may be no better way to spend a day outside of Frederick than to take a trip to Allegany County – and perhaps farther to Garrett County, Maryland’s westernmost county.
Getting There
As you head west on I-70 to Hancock where you pick up I-68, Sideling Hill should be your first stop. Get out of your car, stretch your legs and climb the stairs halfway up the mountain in just minutes to take in the breathtaking view.
At roughly 2,300 feet, Sideling Hill allows glorious views of West Virginia to the south and Pennsylvania to the north. On a map, this stretch of Maryland is so narrow it seems you could easily pinch it off and hand it over to West Virginia. It’s no secret that most folks in these parts wouldn’t mind that a bit. The real draw, however, is the dramatic cut in the mountain that exposes over 800 feet of rock and coal, dating back millions of years. If you go in winter, you’ll marvel at the largest icicles you’ve ever seen.
Back in the car, you descend past Green Ridge State Forest, the picturesque town of Flintstone, and Rocky Gap State Park, where camping, swimming, boating, and gambling share equal billing.
I spent much of my youth sunning and swimming here in Lake Habeeb. Today, the Rocky Gap Casino Resort has taken over much of the land once used for outdoor recreation, but plenty is still available. If casinos are your thing, this one should be your go-to. It’s a bit farther from Frederick than Hollywood Casino in Charles Town, West Virginia or Horseshoe in Baltimore, but the state invested heavily to bring this cash cow to Western Maryland to help nudge the chronically underperforming economy along.
Cumberland
Your next stop is historic Cumberland, the county seat and hub of Allegany County’s economic, tourist and government activity. I-68 actually passes over Cumberland, so you have to be careful to find an exit and stick with it or you’ll pass it by completely. You’ll know you’re there by the beautiful church steeples that adorn the skyline.
Cumberland has seen better economic times but is still charming.
Before you depart the interstate for downtown Cumberland, you’ll want to grab some lunch. We wholeheartedly recommend Puccini’s Restaurant, just east of Cumberland on Ali Ghan Road and right along the interstate. It features casual Italian dining set in the historic setting of the former Hinkle House, which served as a Civil War hospital during the Battle of Folck’s Mill. Try the wedge salad and wood-fired pizza. Their delicious pizza is unlike anything we’ve found in the Frederick area. The house-made dough is thin, crispy and perfectly blackened at the edges. The potassium-rich wood ash adds flavor. Lunch for two will set you back only about $20 or $25.
If pizza is not your thing for lunch, try one of these two local landmarks – D’Atris or Coney Island Famous Wieners. D’Atris has the best steak sandwich I’ve ever eaten – and that includes in Philadelphia (it’s all in the dressing the lettuce is soaked in, I’m told.) The Coney Island wieners actually melt in your mouth, and you’ll have a hard time having just one or two.
Queen City is a pleasantly walkable. You can take a leisurely stroll on the C&O Canal towpath, which terminates near the intersection of the Potomac River and Wills Creek near George Washington’s Headquarters. The towpath in the city is not very shady, and you’ll have to watch out for bicyclists whizzing by, unless you decide to bike it yourself. If you do, take advantage of several bike rental shops within easy walking distance of the towpath and Canal Place – the modest eating and shopping area right at the canal terminus.
A replica of an old canal boat adorns the C&O Canal terminus in Cumberland.
If you have more time, you can hop aboard the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad for a leisurely four and a half-hour round trip to Frostburg and back, or you can get off in Frostburg and bike back to Cumberland via the Maryland portion of the Great Allegany Passage, the 150-mile bike and walking trail from Cumberland to Pittsburgh. If you do, you’ll enjoy a gentle 10-mile downhill decline on a crushed limestone surface, snaking through the “Narrows” and into Cumberland where you’ll connect with the C&O Canal towpath.
Besides the rich history and outdoor recreational opportunities, the best reason to visit Cumberland might be its architecture. My wife and I like nothing better than to stroll along Baltimore Street, the now-struggling downtown area of Cumberland, trying to recall the names of the local shopping institutions that once made these enormous and ornate storefronts their home. We can usually come up with Rosenbaums, Peskins, Lazarus and a few more.
Today, you can enjoy antiquing, art galleries and a few charming pubs and eateries. We then walk up to Washington Street, the “old money” residential area of Cumberland, taking note of the remarkable late 19th- and early 20th-century architecture. Most of the homes on Washington Street are very large, seemingly far too large for just one family.
Baltimore Street in Cumberland provides a striking example of 19th-century architecture.
Frostburg
Known as the Mountain City, Frostburg is just 10 miles west of Cumberland – be sure to travel there on the National Road (Route 40) through the Narrows – but a world away in many respects, particularly weather-wise. Because of its elevation near the peak of Big Savage Mountain, it’s not unusual for Frostburg to be consistently 10 degrees cooler and wetter than Cumberland year-round. During my college days, it was typical for the ice and snow to pile up so much that sidewalks were not seen for months at a time.
Frostburg is a university town with an energy and vibrancy unlike anywhere else in the county. Because of Frostburg State University, the arts, entertainment, and eateries abound on Main Street in a way that Cumberland cannot duplicate.
If you have time we recommend a classic film matinee at the historic Palace Theater, a drink and a snack at one of the many brewpubs on Main Street or a walk across the FSU campus (preferably when there are no classes) to visit the state-of-the-art library, football field, “Old Main” building, the performing arts center, Lane Center student union or environmental center.
Frostburg State Universiy is a desirably snowy destination for high school students all along the northeast coast.
Frostburg is also notable for the annual Appalachian Festival, which features local artisans and is one of the leading showcases for Appalachian culture in the U.S. The Western Maryland Scenic Railroad, which turns around in Frostburg on an old-style turntable for the return trip to Cumberland, and the Thrasher Carriage House Museum, located next to the scenic railroad depot featuring late 19th- and early 20th-century carriages of all types, are two additional popular draws.
Garrett County
After a few hours in Frostburg, head due west over Big Savage Mountain and into the charming hamlet of Grantsville in Garrett County, and have dinner at Penn Alps Restaurant & Craft Shop. This cozy, 1700s-style restaurant features Amish and German cooking at its best. If you go Friday through Sunday, have the hot food buffet that is lovingly tended and jam-packed with perfectly seasoned soups, meats and vegetables. Top it off with a sampling from the homemade desert bar with old-time favorites such as bread pudding, oatmeal cake, apple pie and blueberry and cherry cobbler. Take the time to meander around the craft shop situated in the same building as the restaurant, and then take a stroll along the Spruce Forest Artisan Village next door. Unfortunately, the giant blue spruces are gone, felled by a small tornado a few years ago, but the weavers, potters, woodworkers and other artisans remain, diligently working in their cabins for all to watch and ask questions.
Penn Alps restaurant in Grantsville provides delicious German and Amish home-cooking in an historic setting.
Finish your day with a drive past lovely Deep Creek Lake. Maryland’s largest lake is an outdoors paradise featuring boating, fishing, camping and skiing. It is about 20 miles west of Grantsville.
If you have more time in Garrett County, we recommend two modest hikes to work off the amazing dinner you had at Penn Alps.
The first is to find the source of the Potomac River. Spoiler alert: it’s not much of a hike at all and the source is not even in Maryland! It’s in a small state park in West Virginia near the junction of Grant, Tucker and Preston counties. It boggles my mind to compare this little trickle, bubbling up from the ground, to its imposing grandeur at the Chesapeake Bay some 400 miles away. So much of Maryland’s geography and identity is tied to this famous river that you’ll be glad you completed this hike.
The other is a more difficult hike to the highest point in Maryland, the area known as Hoye-Crest on Backbone Mountain. The peak is nestled against the Maryland-West Virginia border near Red House, Maryland. Hoye Crest is more than 3,300 feet high and is about a 1-mile hike on steep, rocky terrain.
The trail to the highest point in Maryland on Backbone Mountain is steep, rocky and 3,360 feet high.
Going Home
Out of breath and tired from your busy but delightful day, you get back in your car and continue driving past Oakland, the attractive county seat of Garrett County, and make the long, downward trek back to Allegany County via Route 135 into Westernport and McCoole. At McCoole, the site of my long-gone elementary school, you pick up Route 220 for the 30-minute drive back to Cumberland. Once there, you can decide whether to stay in a hotel (we recommend the Fairfield Inn near the C&O Canal terminus) or pick up I-68 and then I-70 near Hancock for the 90-minute drive east to Frederick.
When you meet James Hubbard for the first time, a sense of quiet confidence, competence and thoughtfulness comes through clearly.
And, it’s no wonder after the things he saw and accomplished in Vietnam in the late 1960s. He especially points to the story of his “alive day”—a day he not only remained alive under dire circumstances but proved he could think and function well under extreme pressure.
March 30, 1968 was a typical hot and humid day at fire support base Fels in the Vietnam delta near the town of Cai Lay. The base served as field headquarters for an infantry battalion. Sometime after 5:30 pm, the Viet Cong started dropping mortar rounds onto the base from about 1,000 yards away. Unfortunately, a few of the rounds caused six or seven casualties among the troops, a few very serious.
The battalion surgeon was soon on the phone asking then Lieutenant Hubbard for helicopters to immediately evacuate the worst casualties to a field hospital for treatment. Trouble was, it was extremely dark with no moon or stars to guide the chopper pilots. For just such an emergency, Captain Hubbard and his men had constructed a helipad, complete with 15 slanted holes about five yards apart in the shape of a T to hold tin cans that would, in turn, hold 15 flashlights to guide the pilots onto the base. This did the trick and the chopper landed safely.
Unfortunately, the chopper, with its flashing red lights, made a good target and the enemy soon started firing again. Through the chaos of shouts, screams of wounded men and enemy fire, Captain Hubbard and his men got the casualties loaded onto the chopper and out of harm’s way just as the last round landed near to their position. Extreme courage, preparation and inventiveness had saved the day. Captain Hubbard went on to receive the Silver Star for his service in Vietnam.
In 1973 Captain Hubbard was medically discharged by the Army due to a serious illness. Otherwise, he would have made the Army his career. The discipline and leadership skills he learned in the Army served him well over his long civilian career as a director and lobbyist for the American Legion, where he was a frequent presence testifying on Capitol Hill. One of his proudest moments at the Legion was assisting in the approval and dedication of the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Washington, DC.
Not one to stop working, Captain Hubbard now serves as a volunteer at Monocacy National Battlefield giving tours and explaining what went on at this hallowed battlefield during the Civil War. “My time in the military taught me a lot about myself, about leadership, about buckling down and getting the job done, about decision-making. It was a really enjoyable part of my life, even though some of it was fraught with danger.”
James B. Hubbard, Jr. and his wife Judy live in Frederick and celebrated their 56th wedding anniversary in 2022. They have two daughters and four grandchildren. Daughter Deborah Nylec assisted in the development of his book. To read more about Captain Hubbard’s time in Vietnam, read his book, From Michigan to Mekong, Letters on Life, Learning, Love and War 1961-1968.
Name: James Hubbard Current Age: 79 Hometown: Ludington, MI Year Enlisted: 1966 Years of Service: 6.5 Branch: Army Rank when retired: Captain
