By Gary Bennett
We are so lucky to live where we live.
Central Maryland is just a stone’s throw away from beaches, big cities, bucolic countryside, iconic rivers and trails, Revolutionary and Civil War history and, of course, the oldest mountains in America.
We are all trying hard to maneuver the hottest summer on record here in the lowlands, but like me, you might just be ready to plan your escape to the cooler climes of our nearby mountains.
The mountains of Western Maryland are easy to get to but small. The ones in West Virginia are larger and more rugged but too far away for a quick trip. Luckily, we have the Blue Ridge Mountains in Virginia right next door. Nothing says mountain retreat more to me than a weekend getaway to Shenandoah National Park in Virginia in the heart of the Blue Ridge.
Shenandoah National Park covers 311 square miles in Northen Virgina from Front Royal to Waynesboro, encompassing 196,000 acres of pristine wilderness. It was established in 1935 and designed for everyday Americans in their new-fangled motor cars to experience the allure and grandeur of the mountains. The peaks range from about 2,000 feet at the beginning and end of the park to 3,700 feet near the middle at aptly-named Skyland near Thorofare Mountain. Small, when compared to the Rocky Mountains, but much older.
Shenandoah is a long and relatively skinny park that boasts world-famous Skyline Drive. It is the focus and hopping off point for all the best park attractions. A national scenic byway, Skyline Drive is Shenandoah National Park for most people. It famously meanders back and forth across the tops of the peaks and runs right down the center of the park for over 100 miles.
Skyline Drive is famous for providing access to beautiful mountain vistas that would otherwise be unobtainable for most of us. You’ll want to take advantage of over 75 scenic overlooks with names like Gooney Run, Hogwallow Flats, Stoney Man, Hawksbill Gap and Naked Creek. You will be tempted to stop at each one to take in all the sights, sounds and fresh air. You’ll see the Shenandoah River and Shenandoah Valley to the west and the rolling hills of the Virginia piedmont to the east.
It will take you about three hours to leisurely cover the 100 plus miles from start to finish. But it is well worth it. You won’t feel a need to go any faster than the 35 mile-per-hour speed limit or honk at the motorist ahead of you as you roll along. I swear I can feel my blood pressure decreasing and sensory perception increasing every time I make this drive.
Shortly after entering the park in Front Royal, stop at Dickey Ridge Visitor Center to get your bearings and to pick up a few snacks. Next, take advantage of the many scenic overlooks I mentioned. A particular favorite of mine is Hogback Overlook, looking west to the valley and George Washington National Forest. If you’d like to stretch your legs, try Hawksbill Summit, which rewards you with a couple of hidden waterfalls and breathtaking peak that is easy to climb. Many Skyline Drive trails connect with the Appalachian Trail.
Please note there is a fee to enter the park whether you are staying or simply driving through. As of this writing, the fee for a private car is $30, which includes unlimited entry and exit for up to seven days. Throughout the year there are some free days. Consult https://www.goshenandoah.com/ for more information.
Getting There:
It couldn’t be easier to get to Shenandoah National Park.
Simply drive west and then south on Route 340 right out of Frederick for about an hour and a half, covering about 70 miles to the doorstep of the park in Front Royal, Virginia. No other roads are necessary. Along the way, you’ll enjoy peaceful country scenery, plentiful farm stands and country stores, the charm of Charlestown, WV, and Winchester, VA, and more beautiful red maple trees and mountain laurel than you can count.
When to Go:
This is completely up to you because every season offers something spectacular. You simply can’t go wrong.
Spring comes late to this part of the country and a definite chill fills the air until late-May. It has been known to snow as late as early June.
Summer brings a shining clarity to all the deep greens in the ridges and hollows. Birds are nesting and seem to sing non-stop from early morning to early evening. Skies are clear blue with white puffy clouds seeping in around the peaks.
Autumn is prime time at Shenandoah National Park. A coolness and crispness fills the air. Brilliant fall colors seem to burst from the trees. Hikers abound. Birds are at their most active preparing for their southward migration.
Even winter offers a quiet snow-covered stillness that is hard to forget.
What to Do:
One can do very little at the park and feel completely content. Stop along the side of Skyline Drive at one of the many picnic areas and enjoy a quiet lunch. Curl up in your cabin with a favorite book. Snooze the day away at one of many comfy loungers available at camps and visitor’s center.
For the more adventurous among us you can hike on over 500 miles of trails including the Appalachian Trail, which cuts a large swath through the park.
Waterfall chasing and bird watching during the day and star gazing at night are two of the more popular activities.
I highly recommend taking in any programs the numerous park rangers offer. Their knowledge and love of the park is palpable, plus, they have all the best stories to tell.
At the two park resorts, Skyland and Big Meadows, you can take advantage of expertly prepared programs. Note that some are free when staying at the resorts and some require paying an extra fee. Again, consult https://www.goshenandoah.com/ for more information.
Some of our favorite activities besides hiking and finding hidden waterfalls include:
- Map and compass navigation – guides take away your technology and you must fend for yourself. Don’t worry, you can do it.
- Horseback riding – it’s about $60 for one hour at Skyland, but trust me, one hour will be enough time to see the sights from a whole new perspective.
- Rock climbing – don’t worry, they have excursions (and rocks) appropriate for both novices and experts.
- Basket-making – a local artisan will lead you in making your very own white oak basket.
- The ever-popular whiskey and wine shuttle takes you down to the lowlands to relax, partake and listen to stories about the park along the way.
Where to Stay
Shenandoah National Park features varied lodging options sure to satisfy every taste – from back-country camping to city-slicker glamping. If you wish, you can pitch a tent in the back country or stay at a spacious, luxurious lodge at one of the two park resorts — Skyland or Big Meadows.
The park also has four main campgrounds that are operated by the National Park Service and are open spring through fall:
- Mathews Arm Campground (at mile 22.2)
- Big Meadows Campground (at mile 51)
- Lewis Mountain Campground (at mile 57.2)
- Loft Mountain Campground (at mile 79.5)
Skyland resort is about 41 miles into your trip on Skyline Drive and is located at the park’s highest peak, about 3,700 feet high.
Big Meadows resort is located just a few miles down the road from Skyland and is just a bit lower in elevation. It does feature beautiful Dark Hollows Falls and the handy Byrd Visitor Center.
Lodging at both resorts range from premium hotel-like rooms and suites to small, detached cabins. They even have pet friendly rooms.
Summer prices range from about $150 per night for a cabin with two double beds and very few amenities to about $400 a night for a preferred room with all the amenities you’d expect at a fine hotel. Seniors 62 and older receive a 10 percent discount. Military members and first responders also qualify for special rates. Prices go up a bit in the fall.
I recommend you go with a rustic cabin to get a better mountain retreat experience. Some rooms have TVs and some don’t. Ditch the TV and other technology and instead play a board game to pass the evening, at least until it’s time to star gaze.
Of course, you’ll want a fireplace, especially in the spring or fall. There is nothing better than collapsing into your comfy bed after a day of hiking and starting a cozy fire in your very own fireplace. Unfortunately, in-room fireplaces are unavailable for the 2023 season due to an ongoing rehabilitation project.
What to Eat
Suffice it to say that you won’t go hungry at the four campgrounds, which are well supplied with nearby camp stores, or at the two resorts.
Skyland and Big Meadows feature several pleasing dining options.
Skyland’s Pollock Dining Room serves regional, flavorful specialties like wild game with wonderful views of the Shenandoah Valley. The spacious dining room is wood-paneled and smells amazing. And don’t miss out on the house specialty desert — Mile-High Blackberry Ice Cream Pie!
There’s also a Grab ‘n Go market and the Mountain Taproom for snacks, drinks and live entertainment in a casual setting.
At Big Meadows Lodge, Spottswood Dining Room guests can enjoy dishes like Roosevelt’s roasted or fried chicken (named after the president who dedicated the park) or the New Deal roast turkey plate. Outdoor patio seating is now available.
The New Market Taproom provides craft beer, local wines, snacks and live entertainment. Or, you can order lunch to go at the front desk.
As you drive along after your stay, whether it be north or south, several waysides will keep you well fed, gassed up and ready to buy souvenirs:
- Elkswallow Wayside (at mile 24.)
- Big Meadows Wayside (at mile 51)
- Loft Mountain Wayside (at mile 79)
