By Gary Bennett
My wife and I have been up and down the East Coast from Maine to Florida many times. We’ve enjoyed the Atlantic Ocean in Bar Harbor and Kennebunkport, both Ocean Cities (New Jersey and Maryland), Cape May, Virginia Beach, Myrtle Beach, Jacksonville, Miami Beach and Key West.
But, somehow along the way, we missed the Outer Banks of North Carolina.
We finally made it this past fall, and I’m so glad we did.
The Outer Banks (or OBX as signs and license plates proclaim everywhere) is well-known around Frederick. Many families tell stories of renting a house on this narrow sliver of land that spans about 200 miles of coastline, inviting the entire extended family to join them. I can only imagine what fun this must be.
The Outer Banks is an interesting name. It is a barrier island (or more correctly, a series of barrier islands) sitting in the Atlantic Ocean a few miles from the North Carolina mainland. On a map, it resembles a wayward violin string or a dog’s crooked hind leg. “Barrier” means that the islands will eventually surrender to the ocean, but hopefully not for millions of years.
The islands are separated from the mainland by sounds, which we don’t have here in Maryland. With exotic names like Albemarle, Currituck and Pamlico, these large bodies of water are bigger than a bay or river but not as big as a sea. This gives the islands a secluded feel. Also, there are only a few access points, which increases the feeling of seclusion. You can reach the Outer Banks by highway, of course, but other areas to the south can only be accessed by ferry or small plane.
We arrived at Outer Banks via North Carolina Route 158, which winds its way down the coast from the Hampton Roads area of Virginia. We crossed over the Albemarle Sound and landed near the small village of Southern Shores. From there, it was just a short, pleasant ride to our hotel in Kill Devil Hills.
From Frederick, our drive totaled about 5 and a half hours, covering 320 miles. Overall, it was pleasant. It helps to leave on a Saturday morning if you can, thereby minimizing the traffic around D.C. and Richmond. Once you hang a right at Hampton Roads and head south, traffic thins out nicely.
The Outer Banks begin at Corolla, far to the north, and stretches down to Ocracoke to the south. We didn’t have time on this trip, but one can traverse the entire length of the Outer Banks on picturesque NC Highway 12 (or Beach Road, as the locals call it) and never be more than 3 miles from the ocean. At its narrowest, this spit of land is only 150 yards wide from ocean to sound.
The best-known OBX towns are mostly clustered near the center of the island and have perplexing names. Perhaps the most well-known is Nags Head. No one is certain, but one popular theory is the town got its name from pirates tying lanterns to the necks of horses, or “nags,” to trick ships loaded with booty to run aground.
Kill Devil Hills got its name, so the story goes, from rum, which had washed ashore from wrecked ships and was so strong, it could “kill” the devil.
Kitty Hawk’s name is not quite as interesting. It most likely derives from the Algonquin word “Chickahawk,” which means “a place to hunt geese.” The name first appeared on English maps in the 1700s. Kitty Hawk, of course, will be forever linked to the daring Wright Brothers and their ingenious flying contraption.
The Outer Banks is known for pristine but sometimes wild beaches, majestic sand dunes, wild horses and its many lighthouses. The central OBX beaches of Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills and Nags Head each have their own distinctive personality but share pebbly, off-white sand, skinny shorelines, large oceanfront homes (including Millionaire’s Row), easy access, grassy barriers and numerous fishing piers.
If it’s a boardwalk you’re looking for, we recommend the peaceful, winding one along Currituck Sound in the tiny village of Duck. The Duck Boardwalk encourages a leisurely pace and can be accessed from the town park and other locations throughout the village. It extends for over a mile and offers beautiful views, a variety of wildlife and some retail establishments and restaurants.
The stars of the show at OBX are, without a doubt, the rolling, majestic and seemingly never-ending sand dunes. Jockey’s Ridge State Park in Nags Head has the tallest active sand-dune system in the Eastern U.S., stretching up to 110 feet tall. The chain of dunes is protected by thick maritime forests and grasses. When we visited, families with young children were happily exploring the dunes on nearby trails.
Other must-sees when visiting OBX include the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse and National Seashore, Currituck Beach Lighthouse and Maritime Museum, Jennette’s Pier (home to an excellent science and educational center) and the Wright Brothers National Memorial.
The Wright Brothers National Memorial, inexplicably in Kill Devil Hills and not Kitty Hawk, includes a full-scale reproduction of the original plane that is not much bigger or sturdier than a hang glider, numerous exhibits, educational talks by docents, the 1902-‘03 camp buildings where the brothers performed their experiments, the carefully maintained 3,000-foot airstrip, a mesmerizing sculpture of the brothers and other helpers preparing for takeoff, the “First Flight” boulder marking the takeoff point of the three experimental flights and the dominating, 60-foot memorial to their achievements at the top of a huge sand dune.
For food, Miller’s Seafood and Steakhouse in Kill Devil Hills serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, specializing in fresh seafood and aged steaks. For dinner, I tried the North Carolina sea scallops, which were seared and grilled to perfection, and my wife, Ellen, had the sesame-seared bourbon tuna. Both were excellent. The Miller family also owns the “American Pie” shop right next door that offers delicious homemade pies and ice cream.
For lunch, try Cosmo’s Pizza, the local, New York-style pizza shop. It sits unassumingly in a strip mall near Corolla, but the tasty food and friendly atmosphere make it worth the trip. Their red brick, wood-burning oven gives the place a warm, homey feel and provides a crispy, slightly burnt pizza crust that is so hard to find in Frederick.
We considered trying some North Carolina-style barbecue, but after learning the Eastern-style Carolina type is made using the “whole hog,” we demurred. Using the whole hog means the entire pig is barbecued, chopped up and mixed together. It is served with a vinegar-based sauce, also not one of my favorites. The locals claim that pork served this way is the most tender with a deliciously distinct flavor. I guess I’ll never know.
For shopping, I recommend four local favorites: The Cotton Gin, Farmer’s Daughter, Gray’s and Kitty Hawk Kites.
The Cotton Gin provides high-end shopping and seems to have something for everyone. True to its name, 100% cotton clothing dominates the offerings. This local landmark has been around nearly 100 years and is the go-to place for gifts and souvenirs.
Farmers Daughter (there is no apostrophe to be found) is the quintessential beach shop with 16 OBX locations. The Kill Devil Hills location we visited specializes in what they call “fish hippie apparel.” You’ll need to check that out to see for yourself.
Gray’s Outer Banks Lifestyle Clothing Company (its long, official name) in Kitty Hawk specializes in coastal, casual resort wear. As soon as you step inside, you’re greeted by local history and friendly faces.
To really get into that beach vibe and double down on the “first in flight” mojo, visit Kitty Hawk Kites in Duck. It is celebrating 50 years in business. The colorful kites and hang gliders appear ready to jump into the air at any moment.
Two locals favorites we couldn’t resist are Brew Thru, a drive through convenience store offering everything you need, including beer and wine, and one of the last remaining Ben Franklin stores left standing in the U.S.
The former offers more than 100 brands of beers and wines you simply point to and pay for. That, my friends, is America at its best! The latter is a proud member of the five-and-dime retail empire that once numbered over 2,500 stores, mostly in smaller locales nationwide, but now are fewer than 250. According to the manager, the Nags Head Ben Franklin has stood the test of time by adapting to the needs of its customers. It has become an immaculately neat beach gift shop, but its proud history is front and center thanks to the gigantic, unmistakable, red Ben Franklin sign and the ocean-themed mural that adorns the facade of the building.
Gary Bennett is a longtime Frederick resident who spends his time hiking, biking, volunteering and providing childcare for grandchildren. He is married and retired from his career as a nonprofit marketing executive.