By Gary Bennett
This article appears in the Frederick News-Post’s “72 Hours” entertainment insert, July 13, 2023.
Just like Las Vegas and Washington, D.C., Niagara Falls is pretty much a one industry town. But oh, what an industry!
It’s typical to think of Niagara Falls as quintessentially American—the one-time de facto destination for newlywed couples from all over America. And part of it is in America, but the main city of Niagara Falls is completely within Ontario, Canada, along with most of the actual falls, too. The Canadian Niagara Falls city is larger than you might expect with over 94,000 full-time residents, making it just a little larger than Frederick. Across the river, Niagara Falls, New York, is the little sister with a population of about 48,000,
When you saunter down just about any street in Niagara Falls, Ontario, as long as you’re headed downhill, you’ll eventually come upon “The Falls.” That’s what all the locals call it and what all the signs proclaim in caps.
The first glimpse is absolutely breathtaking.
The mist emanating from The Falls makes it difficult to see the bottom. The roar is deafening and the mist is omnipresent even relatively far away. The falling water provides a perpetual breeze, much like the ocean. Temperatures can be 10 degrees cooler than in the center of the city. The Falls have eaten away at the banks of the Niagara River to form a very wide, deep gorge.
You’ll be surprised that there are actually three falls within sight.
There is American Falls, the medium-sized one that features a rocky bottom, the smaller Bridal Veil Falls, so named because of what it sauggests, and the large, picturesque Horseshoe Falls, the one we see in our mind and the one perfectly shaped like a horseshoe. Horseshoe Falls is entirely within Canada. American and Bridal Veil Falls are on the American side. The Niagara River famously separates Canada and the U.S. at this point.
It is estimated there are about 500 waterfalls in the world that are taller than Niagara Falls, but there is none that accounts for such a heavy volume of water. It is estimated that over 75,000 gallons of water head over the falls each second.
Niagara Falls was formed eons ago by the Niagara River cascading over very hard rock while perpetually eating away at the softer bedrock further downstream. The collision is so intense that an ever-growing gorge has been formed. Experts say that American Falls will lose its waterfall status and become just a series of rapids in the not-too-distant future.
And yes, many daredevils since the 1920s have attempted to ride over The Falls in barrels and other strange contraptions. Many have made it but some have died. This activity is now illegal in both counties. You might remember that Nic Wallenda had special permission to traverse The Falls by tightrope about a decade ago and made it. Thankfully.
Getting there
Getting to Niagara Falls is relatively easy. One can fly, of course. Niagara Falls International Airport features carriers such as Spirit and Allegiance leaving from Baltimore. Or, you can fly into Buffalo fairly inexpensively on many carriers, but then it is still a 30-minute ride to Niagara Falls.
I love road trips so I recommend driving to Niagara Falls.
From Frederick, it’s about 400 miles or a relatively short, scenic 6.5-hour drive mostly up Route 15 North past Gettysburg, Harrisburg and Williamsport, Pennsylvania, and on to Rochester, New York. Hang a left in Rochester on Route 90 and, before you know it, you’re driving past Buffalo to the Canadian border.
You will cross the aptly named Peace Bridge from the U.S. into Canada. No two countries share such a large, peaceful border. Have your passports ready. Agents are friendly but busy. They may ask you where you are from and where you are going. Practice this. Don’t do as I did and fumble over your words! They may also ask you to roll down your windows for a better look inside. Be ready for this, too. Don’t have all your windows going up and down at the same time like me. No doubt I was lucky to be admitted.
When we drove to The Falls in early June, it was off-season. I highly recommend this time of year or even a bit earlier. Lines are relatively short and hotel rooms are plentiful. Be ready for slow service, though. Going in the winter or fall affords the same advantages but the weather can be sketchy—think lake-effect snow. The Falls are undeniably beautiful in the winter too, since much of it freezes.
Things are expensive as in most resort towns, and you’ll be paying in Canadian dollars, which makes things seem even more expense. Be sure to use your credit or debit card to pay for everything. Let your bank figure out the exchange rate.
What To Do
There are many things to keep you occupied at The Falls other than staring in awe at the cascading water. But don’t worry, the attractions are not as kitschy as you might expect, only pleasingly so.
There are two sides to The Falls – the American and Canadian. The American side, somehow, has remained mostly under-developed and natural. There are some exceptions, of course. The Canadian side, however, is where you’ll find most of the action.
The city has done a wonderful job of making The Falls area quite pedestrian friendly. There is the requisite visitor center on one end near Horseshoe Falls — complete with movie theater, restaurant, overlook vantage points, a restaurant, and shops – and the entrance to scenic tours and the province (not state) park near American Falls at the other end.
I highly recommend a trip on the Maid of the Mist on the American side or its counterpart, the Hornblower, on the Canadian. These boats will cruise you past American and Bridal Veil Falls and right up to the mouth of Horseshoe Falls. They leave every 30 minutes.
Full disclosure: you will get drenched from the heavy mist near the base of The Falls, but you’ll love every minute of it! Besides, you will be outfitted with a handsome, complimentary slicker before departing. The trip out and back to Horseshoe Falls takes only about 20 minutes since you depart within eyesight of The Falls. The trip costs about $28 Canadian for adults and $16 Canadian for kids. Children under five are free.
Another worthwhile endeavor is “Journey Behind the Falls.” It is well named. You descend by elevator several stories below the welcome center and make your way through a manmade tunnel to two viewpoints behind The Falls and to an observation deck beside the base of The Falls.
Be forewarned that if you are claustrophobic, you will not like the long walk in the tunnels. I preferred the view below and beside The Falls on the observation deck to suitably represent its sheer power and magnitude. The view behind The Falls at the two 50-foot cut out portals reminded me more of looking out the window on a very stormy day. There was not too much you could see. Journey Behind the Falls costs $24 Canadian for adults and $16 Canadian for kids.
From just about any hotel room near The Falls you can enjoy the nightly illumination in multi colors at dusk and fireworks at 10 pm. This was a highlight of our trip. It is striking to see so much color and power at the same time. And it was free!
One thing I wish I had done is visit The Falls overnight. Horseshoe Falls reportedly becomes a dribble from midnight to about 5 am due to the diversion of the rushing water to nearby electricity-generating power plants.
A few new and expensive attractions have been added in the last several years.
There is now a zip line that hurtles passengers on a ride of about a quarter of a mile beside The Falls. It was entertaining listening to the shrieks of the passengers as they glided by. Cost: about $70 Canadian per person.
Skylon Tower is a 520-foot tower you can ascend by elevator for an unparalleled view. At the top you can enjoy a rotating restaurant. And yes, try the poutine. Cost: about $55 Canadian per person but if you eat at the restaurant, it is free.
Falls View Casino sits right beside The Falls gorge and offers all you would expect from a casino. And like many resort towns, Niagara Falls also has a large Ferris wheel or “eye” to ride and view The Falls.
Finally, I recommend taking a side trip to the town of Niagara on the Lake during your stay in Canada. It is a pleasant 20-minute drive north to Lake Ontario and this pretty little town of about 20,000. There, you’ll find quaint shops and eateries, numerous wineries, clean streets, manicured parks, friendly people and beautiful, colorful flowers planted all around town.
