Month: May 2022

Roads Less Traveled – Biking the entire C&O Canal in 10 easy trips

By Gary Bennett

The Bennett on the C&O Canal (Credit: Prime Time Magazine, June 2022)

This article appeared in the Prime Time Magazine supplement to the Frederick News-Post, May 25, 2022.

Oil up your chain, inflate your tires, and, if you are anywhere in Maryland, head out with your bike onto the historic C&O Canal. My wife and I completed the entire stretch in 10 easy trips. We’ll tell you how we did it further below. But first, about the canal.

This 19th century engineering marvel was transformed in the 1950’s into the longest and thinnest U.S. national historic park. In most areas it is only about 50 feet wide but meanders for 184 gorgeous miles from the mouth of Rock Creek Park in Georgetown to the rugged hills of Cumberland.  Frederick is conveniently located about half way along the canal.

C&O Canal Historic Park meanders 184 beautiful miles from Georgetown to Cumberland, MD.

Originally designed to carry coal, lumber, grain, and hay from coastal towns inland, helping to open up the western frontier, the canal today preserves history and promotes recreation. The canal towpath was originally used by mules and their handlers to pull the canal boats through the still water but now is a well-maintained biking, hiking, and running trail. It parallels the Potomac River for its entire length and is mostly in sight of this peaceful river that outlines Maryland’s southern border.

Riding west to east on the canal has the advantage of a slight downhill grade, and you’ll want to take advantage of that. You won’t notice it much except at each of the 75 locks, which were used to raise and lower boats according to the change in elevation along the route. During your trip, you’ll descend only 605 feet from Cumberland to near sea level in Georgetown, but every little bit helps.

The following itinerary is the one we followed and is designed for biking novices or families of all types.  For time estimates, figure on averaging about 7 miles per hour, which is very easy pedaling.

Day 1:  26 miles – Cumberland to Paw Paw, WV
The beautiful jumping off spot at the western terminus in historic Cumberland at mile marker 184 features a spotless Fairfield Inn right on the canal, an historic canal boat replica, lots of restaurants for good, cheap eats, the Cumberland Visitor Center with interesting exhibits on the B&O Railroad, National Road, and canal, and a downtown walking area. Bike along to Oldtown, just 10 miles away, and have lunch at the town’s former elementary school, which is just off the trail. Continue on another 16 miles to mile marker 158 and the historic Paw Paw Tunnel. The small town of Paw Paw, West Virginia, named after the abundant fruit tree in the area, is just across the Potomac River and features a hotel, some restaurants, and a camping area.

Lock #75 near Cumberland, MD displays 19th century engineering at its best.

Day 2: 17 miles – Paw Paw to Little Orleans
Departing from the Paw Paw Tunnel, which is over 3,000 feet long and built to bypass the Paw Paw Bends, a six-mile stretch on the Potomac River with five horseshoe-shaped bends, ride 17 miles on the most secluded part of the trail to the tiny hamlet of Little Orleans and mile marker 141. Make sure to have a good working flashlight with you as the Paw Paw Tunnel is not well lit.  This part of the trail passes through Green Ridge State Forest. If you go on a weekday, chances are you will see no other riders. Little Orleans features camping and the terrific Oak Barrell Cafe, with easy access to I-70 and Route 40.  Ask for the “Kickin’ Chicken” at Oak Barrell.

3,000-foot long Paw Paw Tunnel shaved six miles off canal trips in its day.

Day 3: 16 miles – Little Orleans, MD to Hancock, MD
Depart Little Orleans and bike 16 miles to Hancock, a charming little town in Washington County that sits in the shadow of nearby Sideling Hill. In Hancock have lunch or dinner at Buddy Lou’s, a local institution right on the trail that caters to locals and riders alike. Get the pecan, blue cheese, and strawberry salad and browse their fine collection of antiques. This leg of the trail features two scenic aqueducts: Sideling Hill Creek and Cacapon Junction.  Be sure to visit the Hancock Visitor Center for a nice respite. Hotels are also available.

C&O Canal Historical Park in Hancock is one of many welcome respites along the way.

Day 4: 13 miles – Hancock, MD to Big Pool, MD
Depart Hancock and travel 13 miles to Fort Frederick State Park near Big Pool in Washington County.  Along the way, enjoy Little Pool and Licking Creek Aqueducts, both featuring camping, snacks and other amenities. Fort Frederick State Park right on the canal at Big Pool is worth an extended tour. There, you’ll see the unique stone fort that served as Maryland’s frontier defense during the French and Indian War. Built in 1756, the fort’s stone wall and two barracks have been restored to their 1758 appearance. The park’s campground, picnic area, snack bar, playground, shelter, some public restrooms and all trails are now open. 

Top-notch amenities are offered at Fort Frederick State Park in Big Pool, MD.

Day 5: 12 miles – Big Pool to Williamsport
Depart Fort Frederick State Park at Big Pool and bike 12 miles to the small town of Williamsport, just south of Hagerstown. Bypass several scenic dams and locks along the way. Take some time at the Williamsport Visitor Center and nearby Cushwa Warehouse to take in some canal history.  Have lunch or dinner at Tony’s Pizza and Italian Restaurant, just two blocks off the canal.  Red Roof Inn is not too far away if you need overnight accommodations.

Historic Cushwa Warehouse in Williamsport, MD offers canal boat rides.

Day 6: 26 miles – Williamsport to Shepherdstown, WV
Depart Williamsport and ride 26 miles to Shepherdstown, West Virginia.  This stretch of the canal features many camping options, including Cumberland Valley, Opequon Junction and Horseshoe Bend.  For sight-seeing, Killiansburg Cave is along the way. In Shepherdstown, excellent overnight accommodations and a great German meal await you at the well-known Bavarian Inn.

Day 7: 19 miles – Shepherdstown, WV to Brunswick, MD
Depart Shepherdstown and bike 19 miles to historic Brunswick. About halfway to Brunswick, which is home to another canal visitor center and former hub for the B&O Railroad, you’ll pass by Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, home to its namesake national historic park dedicated to John Brown’s unsuccessful raid on the federal armory during the Civil War. It is well worth your time to cross the newly reopened pedestrian bridge over the Potomac River into Harpers Ferry to take in the history and grab a nice lunch at one of its many cozy eateries.  The Appalachian Trail and Shenandoah River intersect the canal at this point so the townsfolk are well versed in serving sweaty travelers on foot, bike, or boat.  Brunswick, too, features several nice restaurants and hotels.

High above historic Harpers Ferry WV, which sits at the intersection of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, Appalachian Trail, and C&O Canal.

Day 8: 12 miles – Brunswick, MD to Dickerson, MD
Depart Brunswick and bike 12 miles to the Monocacy River Aqueduct near Dickerson in southern Frederick County. Along the way, enjoy the Catoctin Creek Aqueduct, Bald Eagle Island (where you might spy one its famous namesake inhabitants) and Calico Rocks and Indian Flats for camping and boating.  At the Monocacy River Aqueduct, bike another few miles inland to the venerable Dickerson Market for lunch or dinner.  Their giant beef hot dogs are worth the visit.

Day 9: 20 miles – Dickerson, MD to Seneca Creek Aqueduct
Depart Monocacy River Aqueduct near Dickerson and travel 20 miles to Seneca Creek Aqueduct in Montgomery County. This stretch of the canal passes by Whites Ferry, which is a working, hand-operated toll ferry crossing the Potomac River to nearby Leesburg, Virginia. It is well worth the time to make this crossing and either grab a bite in Leesburg or at the Whites Ferry Tavern.

Great Falls on the Potomac River turns the river from docile to ferocious very quickly.

Day 10: 23 miles – Seneca Creek Aqueduct to Georgetown
Depart Seneca Creek Aqueduct and travel 10 easy miles to Angler’s Inn near ritzy Potomac in Montgomery County. The highlight of this leg is Great Falls Park, home to the white-water portion of the Potomac River, Billy Goat hiking trail, canal boat rides, and numerous scenic overlooks.  Carve out some time for the Great Falls Tavern Visitor Center, which explores more history of the canal and local area.  Don’t miss lunch at the charming Old Angler’s Inn just off the trail. Try their gourmet burger on their beautiful patio.

After lunch, continue on another 13 miles to mile marker 0 in Georgetown.  This scenic and urbanized stretch features camping and boating at Carderock, the Clara Barton National Historic Site, charming Glen Echo Park and Fletcher’s Boathouse. Have dinner at Il Canale along the canal on 31st Street in DC.   Finish your adventure with pictures and high fives at the Georgetown Visitor Center.

Gary and Ellen Bennett after completing their 10-trip, 184-mile trek at the mouth of Rock Creek Park in Georgetown.

Court Packing to Finally Bear Abortion Fruit

By Gary Bennett

The Roberts Court, April 23, 2021 Seated from left to right: Justices Samuel A. Alito, Jr. and Clarence Thomas, Chief Justice John G. Roberts, Jr., and Justices Stephen G. Breyer and Sonia Sotomayor Standing from left to right: Justices Brett M. Kavanaugh, Elena Kagan, Neil M. Gorsuch, and Amy Coney Barrett. Photograph by Fred Schilling, Collection of the Supreme Court of the United States

After nearly 50 years as the law of the land, it seems the end of Roe v. Wade is upon us. Who could have seen this coming? As it turns out—everyone.

It doesn’t matter that nearly two-thirds of Americans support a women’s right of bodily self-determination. This day has been inevitable ever since Justices Gorsuch, Kavanaugh, and Barrett ascended to the Supreme Court under disgusting (even for politics) circumstances. We should never forget the rank political maneuvering that got them there and brought us to this day.

Gorsuch was appointed by Trump after then senate majority leader Mitch McConnell refused to even give Obama’s pick, Merick Garland, a hearing nine months before the 2016 presidential election. For nearly a year the Court operated with eight justices. Then McConnell turned around and rushed Kavanaugh through despite believable allegations of sexual misconduct that were never fully investigated. Not to be outdone, he then pushed through Barrett just seven weeks before the 2020 election that Trump would lose and during (during!) early voting for president. The hypocrisy (again, even for politics) has been stunning.

This whole sordid affair has never gotten the attention it deserves. It is court packing, pure and simple. One could hardly blame Biden if he were to immediately name and push through three or four new justices. There is nothing but howls and screams from the right to stop him. Of course Biden would never do this but since the right only understands scorched-earth politics, the left should abide. 

One might wonder how mitch McConnell sleeps at night but then you remember who we’re talking about. If there was ever a person singularly interested in obtaining and keeping raw political power no matter the consequences and who it tramples, it is him. He admits as much.

I’ve written before in this paper that the majority leader in the Senate, no matter the party or person occupying this made-up office that is not even mentioned in the Constitution, has too much power. In the case of McConnell, he was singularly making decisions that affected all Americans based on the electoral wishes of a majority of a small southern state’s voters. I never got a chance to vote for McConnell or McConnell’s opponent, and probably neither did you.

Now, with this new precedent, it would not surprise anyone if the right-leaning Court begins to systematically chip away at same-sex marriage, LBGTQ rights, and even the separation of church and state. And, if the GOP gains control of both houses and is able to win the presidency in 2024, the complete and total end of abortions in the U.S. for any reason would likely become a reality no matter what most Americans think. Iron-fisted rule by a loud minority over a quieter, less organized majority is, historically, how democracies begin to crumble.

I clearly remember the day in 1973 when the Supreme Court found in favor of Roe, and suddenly, receiving and performing abortions were no longer a crime. The ruling, while critically important, did not throw the country into crisis mode. It even felt like a compromise in some ways. Even the most callous of citizens agreed that, if we had to have abortions, better they be performed safely by trained clinicians than in some dark alley by someone with little or no training or by the desperate women themselves. Red states were even able to put some restrictions in place, but it seemed like everyone could work with that. Those kinder, gentler days seem to be gone forever.

It’s Not You–It’s Me (Breaking Up America)


By Gary Bennett

As I complete my mail-in ballot request and prepare to serve as an election judge again in this great state of Maryland, I can’t help but be grateful I live in a place that comfortably aligns with my political sensibilities and vision for America.

I know that is not true for everyone.

I can’t imagine living in a state like West Virginia or Texas where the majority political opinion is so much different than my own, and the political leaders seem to take such delight in marginalizing the opposition citizenry like they aren’t really citizens at all.

As for my conservative friends, I can’t imagine how it must be for you living in the Old Line State. You must cringe every time the democratic legislature passes a crazy bill like banning the sale and possession of untraceable “ghost” guns or establishing a statewide paid family and medical leave program for millions of workers. Even when a republican governor vetoes a bill, the democratic legislature simply overrides it with little or no fanfare because it’s (ho-hum) business as usual.

Despite the frequent threats I hear to leave Maryland, I know it’s not easy to move. But if I were in the permanent political minority, I would surely make it a priority. In this regard you have to give former Maryland state senator Alex Mooney (R-Mars) credit because he took his political talents from Maryland to West Virginia and picked up right where he left off. Except now, he has more sympathetic ears and has gained higher office, even if it’s in West Virginia.

I might be pessimistic but when you project this state-by-state angst over the entire country, It seems quite possible to me the United States makes a clean, political break one day. It is doubtful there would be all out war—we’ve been down that woeful road before and it didn’t work out so well. But, a political, paperwork-laden solution decades from now? Sure. Just think something like Brexit.

Consider if breaking up would be so bad. California is, by itself, the world’s fifth largest economy. Texas, Florida, and New York could no doubt stand on their own. The remaining states would then band together in one or more conservative-leaning countries or progressive-leaning countries. This could be decided by state referendum but the lead time would be such that the political losers in each new country could find work and swap accommodations with the losers in the other if they wish, sort of like an enormous Airbnb program. Texas could build that wall and California could ban all those guns. We would all be able to move freely about these new countries just like the EU citizens do. We would all be members of NATO.

Politicians are fond of saying we have more in common than we have differences. My observation is we don’t. We have many more differences—certainly too many and too serious to remain in an unhappy marriage. It used to be that a foreign threat would bring us together. Think Cuban missile crisis or 9-11. No longer. All you have to do is watch some Fox News and you’ll see we can’t even agree on our opposition to Russia in their war with Ukraine.


Abortion?  As we are now seeing this issue alone has the potential to thwart the very idea of what it means to be American. Most of us want this procedure to be safe, rare and legal. We feel it is none of our business what women do with their own bodies. Others want it to be very much their business. They wish to preserve the fetus at all costs and make criminals out of doctors and desperate women.

Gun rights? Some of us know that more guns do not make us safer and would be happy if we had many less guns than people. Others insist more guns d0 make us safer and there can’t be too many. They should even be at our sides at all times. 

Voting rights? Most of us believe there is not a voter fraud problem in this country and wish to make voting as easy as possible. Others believe elections are stolen and voting laws must be tightened up precipitously.

I could go on and on.

If you know a little history, you know this: there is nothing sacred about being a “country.” The list of countries that have come and gone is telling. We only have to look at modern times to remember there used to be independent states like USSR, Czechoslovakia, Yugoslavia, East Pakistan, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland. They’ve been replaced by a potpourri of new or merged countries. English- and French-speaking Canada flirts with a split every decade or so. Even on our own sunny shores, Texas and Hawai’i, believe it or not, used to be independent countries. And let’s not forget America itself was not so long ago part of the British Empire.

When you look clear-eyed at this in an historical light, it seems more likely than not that America breaks up with itself one day. And, why not? Most people are either mad, anxious, or apoplectic at the other side. They simply can’t understand why those people think and live the way they do and are always stirring up trouble. The same angst and stress that plays out in red and blue states for the opposition party clearly plays out at the federal level every day. Do you really think it will get better? I don’t. Compromise and “country before party” is a quaint relic of another time. The political class has failed us.

I hope I’m wrong about breaking up. I can’t imagine needing a passport to visit my beloved Siesta Key, Florida, each year. Of course, I don’t think you could pay me to live there now with Ron DeSantis (R-Looney Tunes) gleefully banning books, criticizing mask-wearing students and picking on Mickey Mouse for saying “gay”. But if Florida were in a different country, I’m ashamed to say that I would probably hold my nose and overlook the human rights abuses taking place there in order to visit. After all, I did that when I visited China many years ago.