C&O Canal – Gary Bennett Publishing

Hancock delivers trails, history and plenty of pie

By Gary Bennett

Buddy Lou’s Eats, Drinks and Antiques combines a restaurant with antiques and work by local artists at 11 E. Main Street in Hancock.

This article appears in the September 24, 2026 issue of Frederick News-Post’s “72 Hours” entertainment magazine.

The charming little town of Hancock, in far western Washington County, is small but well worth a visit. It is a popular rest stop for motorists heading toward I-68 and points west or the Pennsylvania Turnpike and points north. But make no mistake: You can easily spend a delightful day in Hancock, especially if you are a hiker, biker or, most importantly, a pie aficionado. More on that later.

Hancock has about 1,500 residents, roughly 3 square miles of area and one main drag through town. It is geographically unique, sitting at Maryland’s narrowest point. Less than 2 miles separate the Pennsylvania and West Virginia borders there, creating a place on the map where you could seemingly pinch off Maryland and hand it over to West Virginia. Just west of town, Sideling Hill offers sweeping views of the surrounding ridges and valleys.

Hancock is one of the oldest settlements in Western Maryland. Settlers began putting down roots in the area in the 1730s, and the community was once known as William’s Town. The name Hancock derives from Edward Joseph Hancock Jr., whose family operated a ferry across the Potomac River. Hancock fought alongside George Washington during the Revolutionary War.

The town also has Civil War history. In January 1862, Confederate Maj. Gen. Thomas J. “Stonewall” Jackson demanded Hancock’s surrender. Union Brig. Gen. Frederick W. Lander refused, Jackson’s artillery shelled the town and the Confederate force eventually withdrew after an inconclusive action amid brutal winter weather.

Sumptuous meal at Buddy Lou’s Eats, Drinks and Antiques in Hancock.

Hancock has been designated Maryland’s official Trail Town. It offers easy access to the rustic C&O Canal Towpath, which parallels the Potomac River, and the paved Western Maryland Rail Trail. With restaurants and shops beckoning just steps from both trails, Hancock is a favorite stop for cyclists and hikers.

Hancock is about an hour west of Frederick via I-70. It makes an excellent day trip, but visitors who would rather stay overnight can find small hotels and the 1878 RiverRun Bed & Breakfast.

There is no missing Hancock as you travel west on I-70. On the eastern outskirts of town, motorists are greeted by one of the largest American flags I’ve ever seen. It waves majestically over the Blue Goose Market and Bakery. Be ready, though: The westbound exit into town is on the left.

Housing in Hancock remains comparatively affordable. Recent Census Bureau estimates place the median value of owner-occupied homes at about $190,900. The town also has a sizable retirement-age population: About 22% of its residents were 65 or older in the 2020 census.

BLUE GOOSE MARKET AND BAKERY

If you’ve never visited the Blue Goose Market and Bakery, you are in for a treat, and I mean that literally. This place is a snacker’s and browser’s paradise. It features more than 30 flavors of gorgeously displayed gourmet pies, many taking advantage of local fruit. If calories don’t count in heaven, I’m going to find a way to get a weekly fix of those freshly baked pies and cookies.

The bakery at the Blue Goose offers gourmet pie and other freshly baked goods.

In 2011, a modern building replaced the old barn-style store known as Hepburn’s Orchards. The larger store preserved the fresh produce and baked goods while adding an extensive gift shop with Southern flair. It sells everything from custom floral arrangements and clothing to jewelry and home decor.

You can easily spend a few hours browsing the merchandise, laughing at the snarky T-shirt and sweatshirt sayings — “And despite the look on my face, you’re still talking” — and snacking on fresh pie, gourmet foods and candies, Amish fudge, honey, cider, local wines and jams.

The Blue Goose draws on the area’s apple- and peach-growing tradition to make some of the freshest, tastiest pies you will ever eat. Although the orchard industry is smaller than it once was, Hancock became known during its fruit-growing heyday as the “Fruit Basket of the Nation.”

For my wife and me, stopping here to pick up cookies for the road ahead has become a tradition.

BUDDY LOU’S EATS, DRINKS AND ANTIQUES

Another can’t-miss stop is Buddy Lou’s Eats, Drinks and Antiques. The name says it all. Stop for lunch or dinner, then spend time perusing its collection of antiques and work by local artisans. Be prepared to stay awhile. No one is going to rush you. Patrons arrive by foot, car, boat or bike and are treated like family by the friendly staff.

Located at 11 E. Main St., Hancock, and just steps from the C&O Canal Towpath, Buddy Lou’s is a special place. It stands three stories high, with an open-air lower level and a sprawling, inviting patio. It somehow mixes past and present in a pleasing blend of casual charm. The walls are covered with memorabilia that keeps the eyes moving and engaged. The restaurant has a distinct country vibe, but the menu is unquestionably upscale.

Current menu choices include mushroom nuggets made with lion’s mane mushrooms, smoked pork nachos, a fried bologna sandwich, a crab cake sandwich and Buddy Lou’s pork belly BLT. Dinner selections include crab cakes, beer-can roasted chicken, pan-seared Atlantic salmon and rib-eye steak. Sandwiches are served with fresh-cut fries.

Just don’t ask to speak to Buddy Lou. You can pet her namesakes, though. Owner Diane Smith said the restaurant’s name combines the names of her dogs, Buddy and Lucy. “We wanted others to love our dogs like we do.”

The paved Western Maryland Rail Trail passes through Hancock on its 28-mile route between Fort Frederick State Park and Little Orleans.

C&O CANAL VISITOR CENTER

Several visitor centers interpret the history of the 184.5-mile C&O Canal corridor between Georgetown and Cumberland. Hancock’s visitor center, housed in the historic Bowles House, is one of the most interesting.

Located at 439 E. Main St., Hancock, the two-story brick house overlooks the Potomac River and C&O Canal near Lock 52 and the Tonoloway Aqueduct. The Bowles family occupied the house during the canal’s working years. Today, it illustrates life along the canal and in the neighboring village.

The exhibits tell the story of Hancock’s transformation from a modest colonial river crossing into a bustling commercial gateway. The arrival of the orchards, C&O Canal, Western Maryland Railway and National Road is depicted through illustrations and historical displays.

SIDELING HILL CUT

No trip to the Hancock area would be complete without a visit to the aptly named Sideling Hill Cut. Just a few miles west of town, the striking cut into the ridge was created by highway engineers during construction of I-68 in the early 1980s.

Blasting through the ridge exposed an approximately 800-foot cross section of folded rock layers formed hundreds of millions of years ago. The visible bands of sandstone, shale and thin coal seams are mesmerizing.

The site’s original geology exhibit center has closed, but the rest area, parking, walkways and pedestrian bridge remain. Visitors can climb the stairs to the bridge and overlook for a closer view of the exposed rock layers and the surrounding ridges.

If you go in winter, you may also be treated to some of the largest icicles hanging from a mountainside that you have ever seen.

The Blue Goose Market and Bakery’s gift shop carries clothing, jewelry, home décor, custom floral arrangements and local goods.

WESTERN MARYLAND RAIL TRAIL

The paved and well-maintained Western Maryland Rail Trail extends 28 miles from Fort Frederick State Park in Washington County to Little Orleans in Allegany County, passing through Hancock along the way. The flat, smooth trail follows the former right of way of the Western Maryland Railway and parallels the Potomac River and C&O Canal.

If traversing the unpaved and sometimes wet or rocky C&O Canal Towpath seems daunting, the rail trail is for you. Spectacular river views, preserved canal structures and wooded stretches all beckon within a mile or so of civilization.

Be prepared to share the trail with families with small children, inline skaters, walkers and joggers. That’s a small price to pay for such a delightful ride. Also, watch for wildlife, particularly turkeys, snakes, deer and occasionally black bears.

If peaceful but eclectic Hancock and its nearby attractions don’t delight you — which I can’t imagine — you can retreat to Fort Frederick State Park or Cacapon Resort State Park for camping, fishing and hiking, or to Berkeley Springs, West Virginia, for an artsy, laid-back atmosphere.

Gary Bennett is a longtime Frederick resident who spends his time hiking, biking, volunteering and providing childcare for grandchildren. He is married and retired from his career as a nonprofit marketing executive.

Roads Less Traveled – Biking the entire C&O Canal in 10 easy trips

By Gary Bennett

The Bennett on the C&O Canal (Credit: Prime Time Magazine, June 2022)

This article appeared in the Prime Time Magazine supplement to the Frederick News-Post, May 25, 2022.

Oil up your chain, inflate your tires, and, if you are anywhere in Maryland, head out with your bike onto the historic C&O Canal. My wife and I completed the entire stretch in 10 easy trips. We’ll tell you how we did it further below. But first, about the canal.

This 19^th century engineering marvel was transformed in the 1950’s into the longest and thinnest U.S. national historic park. In most areas it is only about 50 feet wide but meanders for 184 gorgeous miles from the mouth of Rock Creek Park in Georgetown to the rugged hills of Cumberland. Frederick is conveniently located about half way along the canal.

C&O Canal Historic Park meanders 184 beautiful miles from Georgetown to Cumberland, MD.

Originally designed to carry coal, lumber, grain, and hay from coastal towns inland, helping to open up the western frontier, the canal today preserves history and promotes recreation. The canal towpath was originally used by mules and their handlers to pull the canal boats through the still water but now is a well-maintained biking, hiking, and running trail. It parallels the Potomac River for its entire length and is mostly in sight of this peaceful river that outlines Maryland’s southern border.

Riding west to east on the canal has the advantage of a slight downhill grade, and you’ll want to take advantage of that. You won’t notice it much except at each of the 75 locks, which were used to raise and lower boats according to the change in elevation along the route. During your trip, you’ll descend only 605 feet from Cumberland to near sea level in Georgetown, but every little bit helps.

The following itinerary is the one we followed and is designed for biking novices or families of all types. For time estimates, figure on averaging about 7 miles per hour, which is very easy pedaling.

Day 1: 26 miles – Cumberland to Paw Paw, WV
The beautiful jumping off spot at the western terminus in historic Cumberland at mile marker 184 features a spotless Fairfield Inn right on the canal, an historic canal boat replica, lots of restaurants for good, cheap eats, the Cumberland Visitor Center with interesting exhibits on the B&O Railroad, National Road, and canal, and a downtown walking area. Bike along to Oldtown, just 10 miles away, and have lunch at the town’s former elementary school, which is just off the trail. Continue on another 16 miles to mile marker 158 and the historic Paw Paw Tunnel. The small town of Paw Paw, West Virginia, named after the abundant fruit tree in the area, is just across the Potomac River and features a hotel, some restaurants, and a camping area.

Lock #75 near Cumberland, MD displays 19th century engineering at its best.

Day 2: 17 miles – Paw Paw to Little Orleans
Departing from the Paw Paw Tunnel, which is over 3,000 feet long and built to bypass the Paw Paw Bends, a six-mile stretch on the Potomac River with five horseshoe-shaped bends, ride 17 miles on the most secluded part of the trail to the tiny hamlet of Little Orleans and mile marker 141. Make sure to have a good working flashlight with you as the Paw Paw Tunnel is not well lit. This part of the trail passes through Green Ridge State Forest. If you go on a weekday, chances are you will see no other riders. Little Orleans features camping and the terrific Oak Barrell Cafe, with easy access to I-70 and Route 40. Ask for the “Kickin’ Chicken” at Oak Barrell.

3,000-foot long Paw Paw Tunnel shaved six miles off canal trips in its day.

Day 3: 16 miles – Little Orleans, MD to Hancock, MD
Depart Little Orleans and bike 16 miles to Hancock, a charming little town in Washington County that sits in the shadow of nearby Sideling Hill. In Hancock have lunch or dinner at Buddy Lou’s, a local institution right on the trail that caters to locals and riders alike. Get the pecan, blue cheese, and strawberry salad and browse their fine collection of antiques. This leg of the trail features two scenic aqueducts: Sideling Hill Creek and Cacapon Junction. Be sure to visit the Hancock Visitor Center for a nice respite. Hotels are also available.

C&O Canal Historical Park in Hancock is one of many welcome respites along the way.

Day 4: 13 miles – Hancock, MD to Big Pool, MD
Depart Hancock and travel 13 miles to Fort Frederick State Park near Big Pool in Washington County. Along the way, enjoy Little Pool and Licking Creek Aqueducts, both featuring camping, snacks and other amenities. Fort Frederick State Park right on the canal at Big Pool is worth an extended tour. There, you’ll see the unique stone fort that served as Maryland’s frontier defense during the French and Indian War. Built in 1756, the fort’s stone wall and two barracks have been restored to their 1758 appearance. The park’s campground, picnic area, snack bar, playground, shelter, some public restrooms and all trails are now open.

Top-notch amenities are offered at Fort Frederick State Park in Big Pool, MD.

Day 5: 12 miles – Big Pool to Williamsport
Depart Fort Frederick State Park at Big Pool and bike 12 miles to the small town of Williamsport, just south of Hagerstown. Bypass several scenic dams and locks along the way. Take some time at the Williamsport Visitor Center and nearby Cushwa Warehouse to take in some canal history. Have lunch or dinner at Tony’s Pizza and Italian Restaurant, just two blocks off the canal. Red Roof Inn is not too far away if you need overnight accommodations.

Historic Cushwa Warehouse in Williamsport, MD offers canal boat rides.

Day 6: 26 miles – Williamsport to Shepherdstown, WV
Depart Williamsport and ride 26 miles to Shepherdstown, West Virginia. This stretch of the canal features many camping options, including Cumberland Valley, Opequon Junction and Horseshoe Bend. For sight-seeing, Killiansburg Cave is along the way. In Shepherdstown, excellent overnight accommodations and a great German meal await you at the well-known Bavarian Inn.

Day 7: 19 miles – Shepherdstown, WV to Brunswick, MD
Depart Shepherdstown and bike 19 miles to historic Brunswick. About halfway to Brunswick, which is home to another canal visitor center and former hub for the B&O Railroad, you’ll pass by Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, home to its namesake national historic park dedicated to John Brown’s unsuccessful raid on the federal armory during the Civil War. It is well worth your time to cross the newly reopened pedestrian bridge over the Potomac River into Harpers Ferry to take in the history and grab a nice lunch at one of its many cozy eateries. The Appalachian Trail and Shenandoah River intersect the canal at this point so the townsfolk are well versed in serving sweaty travelers on foot, bike, or boat. Brunswick, too, features several nice restaurants and hotels.

High above historic Harpers Ferry WV, which sits at the intersection of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers, Appalachian Trail, and C&O Canal.

Day 8: 12 miles – Brunswick, MD to Dickerson, MD
Depart Brunswick and bike 12 miles to the Monocacy River Aqueduct near Dickerson in southern Frederick County. Along the way, enjoy the Catoctin Creek Aqueduct, Bald Eagle Island (where you might spy one its famous namesake inhabitants) and Calico Rocks and Indian Flats for camping and boating. At the Monocacy River Aqueduct, bike another few miles inland to the venerable Dickerson Market for lunch or dinner. Their giant beef hot dogs are worth the visit.

Day 9: 20 miles – Dickerson, MD to Seneca Creek Aqueduct
Depart Monocacy River Aqueduct near Dickerson and travel 20 miles to Seneca Creek Aqueduct in Montgomery County. This stretch of the canal passes by Whites Ferry, which is a working, hand-operated toll ferry crossing the Potomac River to nearby Leesburg, Virginia. It is well worth the time to make this crossing and either grab a bite in Leesburg or at the Whites Ferry Tavern.

Great Falls on the Potomac River turns the river from docile to ferocious very quickly.

Day 10: 23 miles – Seneca Creek Aqueduct to Georgetown
Depart Seneca Creek Aqueduct and travel 10 easy miles to Angler’s Inn near ritzy Potomac in Montgomery County. The highlight of this leg is Great Falls Park, home to the white-water portion of the Potomac River, Billy Goat hiking trail, canal boat rides, and numerous scenic overlooks. Carve out some time for the Great Falls Tavern Visitor Center, which explores more history of the canal and local area. Don’t miss lunch at the charming Old Angler’s Inn just off the trail. Try their gourmet burger on their beautiful patio.

After lunch, continue on another 13 miles to mile marker 0 in Georgetown. This scenic and urbanized stretch features camping and boating at Carderock, the Clara Barton National Historic Site, charming Glen Echo Park and Fletcher’s Boathouse. Have dinner at Il Canale along the canal on 31^st Street in DC. Finish your adventure with pictures and high fives at the Georgetown Visitor Center.