By Gary Bennett
This article appears in the “72 Hours” insert of the Frederick News-Post, March 9, 2023.
I recently completed the Maryland portion of the venerable Appalachian Trail (AT, for short)—that ancient footpath that stretches nearly 2,200 miles from central Maine to northern Georgia, skipping over the tops of the oldest mountains in North America. When John Denver sings that “life is old there, older than the trees,” he is talking about this part of America. It is a happy coincidence that it passes right by us in central Maryland.
There is no better time to take this on yourself. It’s an unhappy coincidence that we’re all being asked to stay at home to help protect our fellow citizens from COVID-19. We are, however, allowed to go outside for walks as long as we stay six feet apart. For at least momentary mental health reasons we should all take advantage of that rule. It is true you shouldn’t drive long distances to hike on faraway trails in order to limit contact with people and surfaces such as those at gas stations and restaurants, but the AT is right in our back yard. You can access the trail safely and conscientiously without the need for gas stations or restaurants. And staying six feet apart on most parts of the AT is not a problem. You can trust me on that.
I’m not trying to minimize that many of us are essential and still working or that we have childcare responsibilities or sick relatives that need our full attention. And those who have recently been laid off understandably have other concerns and demands on their precious time. But if you can spare some time for yourself, you’ll only need four days of about five hours each to complete this amazing “walk on steroids” that will fill you with a sense of accomplishment.
Late last fall I set a goal for myself to hike the Maryland portion of the AT in the spring of 2020—a goal that must seem very humble to the hardcore hikers among us but one that is more than daunting for someone like me who has never been a hiker. Sure, I’ve taken a few long walks in the woods over the years and many, many walks around the Frederick cul-de-sacs with my middle-aged suburban brethren. And at least one time I walked home from work in downtown D.C. to my former home in Laurel, Maryland—a 15-mile asphalt jungle hike on Route 1. But I’ve never attempted something like this. Yet if I can do it, you can do it, too.
And I did it! Over the course of four day-hikes beginning in mid-March and finishing up in early April, I covered Maryland’s 42-mile section of the AT. Further below I will relate my day-by-day experience so you can make your own plans.
General Impressions
As I reflect back on this series of day-hikes, several things come to mind. First and foremost, I now know I can traverse the entire Appalachian Trail if I should ever care to set my mind to it and allocate the time and patience. There may be tougher parts of the trail but it is hard to see how that could not be conquered with simply a slower pace and more time.
The silence and solitude you experience on the AT is all consuming. The times when the silence is interrupted by the rat-a-tat-tat percussion of a woodpecker, the laughing of oncoming hikers, the humming of a chain saw way off in the distance or small trees creaking in the breeze are surprising and sometimes startling. A strong breeze sometimes sounds like a small freight train just above your head. Sounds of civilization far, far away somehow become comforting. I particularly enjoyed the lonely moan of a train horn many miles away, the faint crackle of a power line in the distance, and the drone of a small plane on the horizon.
There seem to be millions and millions of rocks and boulders of all shapes and sizes to consider on the trail. You will step on many of them and curse some of them. One has to wonder why God placed so many of these seemingly useless objects in our path, but He is God and He knows why and we needn’t trouble ourselves with that. The vertical white blaze marks that point the way are like long lost friends. When you don’t see one for a while you panic just a little even when you know you are not that far from civilization. The trail mostly looks like how you would expect a trail to look except when you are clambering up the side of a mountain over boulders. Then, even the rocks are marked with white blazes. I was worried about seeing snakes during my hikes over the rocks but you needn’t worry about them this time of year. They are safely sleeping off the winter and early spring blues. I saw nary a one. In fact, the only wildlife I saw beside birds singing overhead were two white-tailed deer happily loping along oblivious to me.
And all the trees. At this time of year the thousands of mostly barren trees stand like sentries guarding the trail and you. Many have fallen, some to their final resting place on the forest floor while others are held up by their still-standing compatriots. There are so many fallen trees that you wonder why you never witness one falling yourself. Perhaps it’s better you don’t. Perhaps the Good Lord Himself reserves these solemn funerals for Himself. The final decomposition of the fallen trees reminds you of the circle of life as they finally transform themselves into mulch and then the rich brown soil that is so necessary for the next generation of trees.
Despite my references to God, hiking the Appalachian Trail has not been a religious experience for me like so many others report. Perhaps that level of consciousness is reserved for the thru-hikers. I’m not sure. For me, hiking the AT in Maryland has been more like a very hard workout done during a very quiet mini-vacation with many unexpected rewards along the way.
The trail is beautiful in a “magnificent desolation” kind of way this time of year, breathtaking, exhausting and very possibly the closest you will ever get to seeing what you are made of and what you can do. Unlike professional and Olympic athletes, not many of us are called upon to exert ourselves to maximize speed, strength, endurance, agility or grace. Walking the Appalachian Trail in Maryland may be as close as everyday people like us can get to this level of athleticism. My mantra was simply put one foot in front of the other, even when tired. That philosophy served me well. If you can do that, before you know it you are done. It helps that at some point during your hike it makes no sense to turn back. It is better to just keep going.
You might be wondering, why do this in the first place? Forty-two miles doesn’t sound so tough, right? You can easily do 42 miles around your own familiar neighborhood over several evening walks. Or, you can even do 42 miles by making ten trips up and down Carroll Creek Park in downtown Frederick from start to finish. But if you’re like me, you get bored easily with the same old walk, walking in circles (large as they may be), or, heaven forbid, back-tracking. No, I, and many people like me, need an official starting point and ending point, preferably way off in the distance. That is why I have biked the 180-mile C&O Canal in sections from start to finish. Twice. And that is what the AT in Maryland provides—a trek that is neither too long to be doable in a reasonable amount of time nor too short to be easy. It is just right and provides an endless challenge and a top-notch workout to boot.
I’ll admit that completing the entire 2,200-mile AT is a romantic notion that I would love to achieve, but probably never will. Not because I couldn’t—now I think I could—but because I can never see me being an AT “thru-hiker,” as they are called. These are the determined, hardy souls who camp on the trail and get up every day and carry a 50- pound pack for another 15 miles. Day after day after day. I don’t think I could physically do that. Plus, in the best of circumstances it takes about six months out of your life. Nor can I see me driving off to remote locations for occasional day hikes that would allow me to check off sections of the trail a little at a time. That would be pretty easy physically, I think, but would be inefficient and quite expensive.
Better to limit myself to my home state, at least to start with. Maryland is a relatively skinny state only accounting for 42 miles of the 2,200-mile AT. Maryland’s 42-mile section begins at Penmar Park in northern Washington County, which straddles the Mason-Dixon Line near Cascade, Maryland and Rouzerville, Pennsylvania, then meanders across the top of South Mountain, roughly paralleling the Frederick and Washington County border before finishing up at the Potomac River at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia.
I didn’t do too much planning for this 42-mile, multi-day hike, and you won’t need to either. My hiking wardrobe consisted of comfortable shorts, a t-shirt, sweatshirt, sunglasses, 2 pairs of white socks and hiking shoes bought a few months earlier at Trail House in downtown Frederick. I filled my small blue backpack with two bottles of water, one bottle of Gatorade, 2 granola bars, two pieces of fruit and some crackers and almonds. I threw in my phone, of course, a towel, my AT guidebook also purchased at Trail House, a Mofi to charge my phone if needed, and a few bandages and Neosporin just in case. Ellen, my nurse/wife, insisted on that. My wardrobe, supplies and snacks were consistent over my four day-hikes.
Day-Hike #1, March 14, 2020
Penmar Park to Route 17 (Wolfesville Road) – 9 Miles
My first planned hike was a modest nine miles from Penmar Park on the Maryland/Pennsylvania border to the trail crossing at Maryland Route 17 – Wolfesville Road. Ellen and I set out for Penmar Park on a cool and breezy Saturday morning. We took just one car since my wife wouldn’t be hiking. She would drop me off and pick me up later that day. If you and your spouse/friend/partner both want to hike, just take two cars if you can, placing one at the beginning of your hike and the other at the end. Truth is that the trail in Maryland is never very far from civilization and highway access points.
As I stepped out of the car at Penmar Park at 10:00 am, I was pleased to have as my first AT experience a beautiful vista overlook, panning east towards Thurmont, Maryland. “This is going to be great,” I remember saying out loud. Ellen kissed me goodbye and later admitted that she felt the same way she did when she packed off our oldest son to his first day of kindergarten. It’s sort of an irrational feeling that you’ll never see them again, she explained. Thank goodness there is a big sign featuring north and south directional arrows near the overlook or I would have needed my phone’s built-in compass right way. That would have been embarrassing. The sign says that Maine is 1,080 miles away to the north and Georgia 920 miles to the south. In Maryland you are about halfway along the trail. The mileage is impressive but I wasn’t intimidated. Maybe if I was a thru-hiker.
As I strode deeper and deeper into the woods, I made sure to note the white vertical “blaze” marks on the trees that would show me the way. These crucial signposts are placed there by the various hiking clubs who voluntarily maintain the AT. They become your best friends. I started out on a gentle incline but it rapidly changed to a steep one of about 700 feet over the course of about three miles to High Rock, an old hang-gliding site on the northern part of South Mountain. The walk was not great anymore; it was hard. I was huffing and puffing as I ascended the AT to High Rock, but I wasn’t too worried. I knew from my guidebook that things would get better. I thought of this as a character builder or maybe the ultimate aerobic workout with a great prize at the end. I never considered turning back. The vista at High Rock is mesmerizing but the rock itself is marred by an overabundance of colorful graffiti. Still, you won’t want to leave. High Rock is accessible by road so it is a popular hangout for locals of all ages. On this Saturday, I saw only one family there enjoying the sights.
I didn’t dawdle there long. Mindful of making good time, I got on my way quickly. The trail soon began an equally steep descent of 500 feet over another two miles to Raven Rock Shelter. All shelters and campsites on the AT in Maryland are currently closed by order of Governor Hogan due to the COVID-19 outbreak. For better or worse, this has taken a lot of thru hikers off the AT this year.
From Raven Rock Shelter I descended another 200 feet over two miles to Warner Gap Road. Along the way I had the pleasure of making two stream crossings, one by “rock hopping” and one via two boards situated over the creek by the local AT hiking club. I ate lunch by the quintessential babbling brook and couldn’t help but think I was in a Norman Rockwell painting. From there I ascended another 250 feet over the final three miles past Maryland Route 77 – Foxville Road and Ensign Cowall Shelter and on to Maryland Route 17 – Wolfesville Road for my scheduled pickup. I forgot to call my wife about a mile out as I had planned so I made myself comfortable in the grass and waited. I almost fell asleep.
My tracker said I covered nine miles right on the nose, took 27,000 steps and climbed 134 flights. I finished up at about 4:00 pm. I hiked for roughly six hours and averaged just under two miles an hour. I feel exhausted but great.
Day-Hike #2, March 20, 2020
Route 17 (Wolfesville Road) to the I-70 Footbridge – 8.7 Miles
It was a drizzly, cool Friday when Ellen dropped me off at the Wolfesville Road AT crossing near Smithsburg, Maryland at about 11:00 am. I was happy to see only two other unoccupied cars in the lot. My plan for this day was to hike 8.7 miles to the AT’s I-70 footbridge. This may be the best-known Maryland AT crossing to non-hikers. It is hard to miss the Appalachian Trail sign on the bridge as you drive under it on I-70 or the many cars parked at the access point on Route 40. The footbridge area is also one of the most popular access points to the AT in Maryland so you can expect some small crowds at times. But they quickly thin out on the trail.
I set off on a slightly downhill path and then crossed back over Route 17 and immediately started a grueling uphill climb back and forth over large boulders until I reached the top of South Mountain. This is a 400-foot hand-over-hand ascent in just over half a mile. It is seriously strenuous but I couldn’t help feeling proud of myself as I reached the top still able to breathe just about normally. The rest of the hike took a slightly downhill tack. I was thankful for that. Soon I settled into a nice loping gait that seemed much faster than two miles an hour. At six foot two, I am blessed with long legs and a long stride. Even so, almost every step is one that has to be considered carefully. I had no idea these mountains are so rocky. Nearly every step forces you to decide which rock to step on or avoid because of its sharpness.
The two best landmarks on this section of the AT in Maryland are Black Rock Cliffs and Annapolis Rocks. It took about 5 miles to get to Black Rock Cliffs and I was rewarded with a breathtaking vista looking west towards Hagerstown. In another mile or so with a slight incline, you arrive at Annapolis Rocks, which is at the end of a secondary trail that takes you just two-tenths of a mile out of your way. It is well signed and very much worth the side trip. Don’t pass it up. Still looking west towards Hagerstown, the vista is higher and even more breathtaking than Black Rock Cliffs. The downside is that Annapolis Rocks can be crowded. On this day there were about 30 people spaced among the rocks. The Rocks are only 2.2 miles from the I-70 footbridge which explains the popularity. It is a moderately easy hike from there. I later realize that Annapolis Rocks is that clump of rocks you see plastered on the side of South Mountain as you approach Frederick from the west. It stands like a beacon welcoming all to Frederick County.
From Annapolis Rocks I descended about 600 feet over the course of two and a half miles to the I-70 footbridge. I have learned that steep descents, while looking good on paper, bring their own challenges. I found myself trying to hold back so as to not fly down the mountain and cause myself to trip. This puts some added pressure on your knees. Ellen is there to pick me up at about 3:30 pm.
My tracker said that I walked 8.7 miles, took just under 22,000 steps, and climbed 68 flights. I did all this in about 4.5 hours so I averaged almost 2 miles per hour. I’m two for two so far!
Day-Hike #3, March 26, 2020
I-70 Footbridge to Gathland State Park – 14.5 Miles
Ellen dropped me off at the I-70 footbridge and now has more confidence in me. I have more confidence in myself, too. On this day, I planned my longest and most ambitious hike yet – 14.5 miles to Gathland State Park near Burkittsville, Maryland. I didn’t really want to hike this far but the best two pick up points on this part of the AT are at Gathland, 14.5 miles away, and Reno Monument Road, only seven miles away. “Seven miles is nothing to me now,” I boasted, so I picked the former and allotted 7 hours for the hike.
We headed out at 10 am. It was a sunny Thursday morning with highs forecasted in the 70’s. I double checked to make sure I had my sweating towel. It is a long hike and one that promised to be quite challenging. The pros would call it highly technical and moderately difficult. I started out at 1,200 feet, went down to 900 feet, went back up to 1,600 feet, before finishing up at 950 feet at Gathland State Park.
My first stop came at the three-mile mark at the Washington Monument. No, not that Washington Monument but the one that was built first in the U.S. (1827) by villagers of Boonsboro, Maryland, to honor the first president. The 30-foot stone structure commands the southwestern edge of South Mountain, can be seen for miles, and looks out over Boonsboro, Maryland. It quickly appears as you come up a small hill and literally takes your breath away.
Next, I traveled over fairly flat terrain to Turner’s Gap on Alternate Route 40. You may know Turner’s Gap better as the place where the South Mountain Inn currently stands promising “Food and Drink For All.” Here, I appropriately stopped for lunch at a deserted employee picnic table at about 12:30. At about the halfway point, 7 miles in, I came upon Reno Monument Road and the monument built to honor a scene of heavy Civil War fighting in 1862 and the winning general from the North, Jesse Reno, who was mortally wounded at the end of the battle. This was the low point of today’s hike at 910 feet.
From there I had a gradual but arduous 700-foot ascent to Lamb’s Knoll and White Rock Cliffs. The Cliffs is the only overlook to this point on the trail that looks eastward towards Frederick and features mile after mile of pristine Frederick County farmland in the beautiful Middletown Valley. From there it was a gradual 700-foot descent over three miles to this day’s terminus at Maryland Route 572 — Gapland Road at Gathland State Park just south of Burkittsville. As I passed through these woods made famous by the movie The Blair Witch Project I was happy to see no strange wooden mini-structures designed by otherworldly beings.
I called Ellen the requisite 30 minutes ahead of time to pick me up at the appointed parking lot. She beat me by about 10 minutes as I undertook a steep and arduous descent down the mountain. I could see the parking lot below teasing me for what seemed to be hours as I eased down the hill. I was traveling extremely slowly on this section, slower than I had traveled when I was going up the mountain. It was that steep.
As I finally collapsed into the waiting car at 5 pm, my tracker said I traveled 14.5 miles, took 33,000 steps, and climbed 106 flights over seven hours. I am improving; I averaged just over two miles an hour. After a hot bath and great dinner, I slept like a baby.
Fourth and Final Day-Hike, April 2, 2020
Gathland State Park to Potomac River at Harpers Ferry – 10 Miles
It was a sunny but blustery Thursday with highs in the 60’s as I began this final leg of the Maryland section of the Appalachian Trail. I anticipated my easiest leg since I was starting out at 1,150 feet and descending steadily to 250 feet over 10 miles to the Potomac River at Harpers Ferry, West Virginia. I scrambled out of the car quickly at 11:15 am since I was not entirely sure we should have driven the 15 miles from Frederick to Gathland State Park to begin today’s hike. The previous day Governor Hogan issued a stay-at-home order due to the coronavirus outbreak but since outside exercise is allowed, I reasoned this must be okay. But still, I wasn’t interested in explaining my thinking to any law enforcement officials who might be close by.
First, I traveled about three and a half mostly level but rocky miles to Ed Garvey Shelter, which is officially closed due to the governor’s order. I found a rickety picnic table to have my lunch. The shelter looks east out over the beautiful, fertile farmland of southern Frederick County. One other hiker was lounging there. We acknowledged each other but stayed far apart. Next, I completed a gentle descent of about 200 feet over another two miles to Weverton Cliffs. The view of the Potomac River from this vantage point is breathtaking. Again, only one other hiker joined me at this beautiful landmark. After mentally recharging here for about 15 minutes, I began the arduous trek down the mountainside toward Weverton Road and then on to the Potomac River. This nearly 400-foot descent takes place over just one mile and featured a zig-zagging, back and forth trail that necessarily prevents hikers from falling down the mountain. I am glad I was going down and not up.
I met a family with small children heading up the trail toward Weverton Cliffs but warned them off. That particular section is just too tough for small children. The dad was thankful. If you want what I believe to be the most arduous workout the AT in Maryland has to offer, I highly recommend the one-mile hike going north from Weverton Road to Weverton Cliffs. From Weverton Road it is an easy hike under U.S. 340, onto Keep Tryst Road and then as an extra bonus, you hike west for two miles on the C&O canal to reach the Goodloe E. Byron Memorial Footbridge over the Potomac River and into Harpers Ferry, West Virginia.
Unfortunately, you cannot actually use the footbridge at this time. It is closed indefinitely due to damage from a train derailment late last year. The Appalachian Trail Conservancy recommends calling a taxi to transport you into West Virginia. Happily, I had no such need as I reached my goal of hiking all 42 miles of the AT in Maryland over the course of four day-hikes. Ellen picked me up at about 5:00 on nearby Sandy Hook Road, which parallels the Potomac River and C&O Canal on the Maryland side of the river.
Over about six hours, I hiked exactly 10 miles, took 27,921 steps and climbed 66 flights.
We are fortunate to have this national treasure so close by. So, give the Maryland portion of the Appalachian Trail a try, especially now when so many of us have time on our hands. It’s not that awfully far and it is very safe. I hiked it alone but can see that it would be a good idea to take a partner with you if you can. But if not, don’t let that stop you. I came upon many hikers that would have helped me had I been in distress. That is the code of the trail I am told
What’s next for me? I would love to complete the West Virginia and Northern Virginia portions this year, beginning as soon as the travel ban between states is lifted. It is only another 54 miles. Only. I still can’t believe I can say that now, but my confidence is at an all-time high.