By Gary Bennett
Oil up your chain, inflate your tires, and, if you are anywhere in Maryland, head out with your bike onto the historic C&O Canal. My wife and I completed the entire stretch in 10 easy trips. We’ll tell you how we did it further below. But first, about the canal.
This 19th century engineering marvel was transformed in the 1950’s into the longest and thinnest U.S. national historic park. In most areas it is only about 50 feet wide but meanders for 184 gorgeous miles from the mouth of Rock Creek Park in Georgetown to the rugged hills of Cumberland. Frederick is conveniently located about half way along the canal.
Originally designed to carry coal, lumber, grain, and hay from coastal towns inland, helping to open up the western frontier, the canal today preserves history and promotes recreation. The canal towpath was originally used by mules and their handlers to pull the canal boats through the still water but now is a well-maintained biking, hiking, and running trail. It parallels the Potomac River for its entire length and is mostly in sight of this peaceful river that outlines Maryland’s southern border.
Riding west to east on the canal has the advantage of a slight downhill grade, and you’ll want to take advantage of that. You won’t notice it much except at each of the 75 locks, which were used to raise and lower boats according to the change in elevation along the route. During your trip, you’ll descend only 605 feet from Cumberland to near sea level in Georgetown, but every little bit helps.
The following itinerary is the one we followed and is designed for biking novices or families of all types. For time estimates, figure on averaging about 7 miles per hour, which is very easy pedaling.
Day 1: 26 miles – Cumberland to Paw Paw, WV
The beautiful jumping off spot at the western terminus in historic Cumberland at mile marker 184 features a spotless Fairfield Inn right on the canal, an historic canal boat replica, lots of restaurants for good, cheap eats, the Cumberland Visitor Center with interesting exhibits on the B&O Railroad, National Road, and canal, and a downtown walking area. Bike along to Oldtown, just 10 miles away, and have lunch at the town’s former elementary school, which is just off the trail. Continue on another 16 miles to mile marker 158 and the historic Paw Paw Tunnel. The small town of Paw Paw, West Virginia, named after the abundant fruit tree in the area, is just across the Potomac River and features a hotel, some restaurants, and a camping area.
Day 2: 17 miles – Paw Paw to Little Orleans
Departing from the Paw Paw Tunnel, which is over 3,000 feet long and built to bypass the Paw Paw Bends, a six-mile stretch on the Potomac River with five horseshoe-shaped bends, ride 17 miles on the most secluded part of the trail to the tiny hamlet of Little Orleans and mile marker 141. Make sure to have a good working flashlight with you as the Paw Paw Tunnel is not well lit. This part of the trail passes through Green Ridge State Forest. If you go on a weekday, chances are you will see no other riders. Little Orleans features camping and the terrific Oak Barrell Cafe, with easy access to I-70 and Route 40. Ask for the “Kickin’ Chicken” at Oak Barrell.
Day 3: 16 miles – Little Orleans, MD to Hancock, MD
Depart Little Orleans and bike 16 miles to Hancock, a charming little town in Washington County that sits in the shadow of nearby Sideling Hill. In Hancock have lunch or dinner at Buddy Lou’s, a local institution right on the trail that caters to locals and riders alike. Get the pecan, blue cheese, and strawberry salad and browse their fine collection of antiques. This leg of the trail features two scenic aqueducts: Sideling Hill Creek and Cacapon Junction. Be sure to visit the Hancock Visitor Center for a nice respite. Hotels are also available.
Day 4: 13 miles – Hancock, MD to Big Pool, MD
Depart Hancock and travel 13 miles to Fort Frederick State Park near Big Pool in Washington County. Along the way, enjoy Little Pool and Licking Creek Aqueducts, both featuring camping, snacks and other amenities. Fort Frederick State Park right on the canal at Big Pool is worth an extended tour. There, you’ll see the unique stone fort that served as Maryland’s frontier defense during the French and Indian War. Built in 1756, the fort’s stone wall and two barracks have been restored to their 1758 appearance. The park’s campground, picnic area, snack bar, playground, shelter, some public restrooms and all trails are now open.
Day 5: 12 miles – Big Pool to Williamsport
Depart Fort Frederick State Park at Big Pool and bike 12 miles to the small town of Williamsport, just south of Hagerstown. Bypass several scenic dams and locks along the way. Take some time at the Williamsport Visitor Center and nearby Cushwa Warehouse to take in some canal history. Have lunch or dinner at Tony’s Pizza and Italian Restaurant, just two blocks off the canal. Red Roof Inn is not too far away if you need overnight accommodations.
Day 6: 26 miles – Williamsport to Shepherdstown, WV
Depart Williamsport and ride 26 miles to Shepherdstown, West Virginia. This stretch of the canal features many camping options, including Cumberland Valley, Opequon Junction and Horseshoe Bend. For sight-seeing, Killiansburg Cave is along the way. In Shepherdstown, excellent overnight accommodations and a great German meal await you at the well-known Bavarian Inn.
Day 7: 19 miles – Shepherdstown, WV to Brunswick, MD
Depart Shepherdstown and bike 19 miles to historic Brunswick. About halfway to Brunswick, which is home to another canal visitor center and former hub for the B&O Railroad, you’ll pass by Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, home to its namesake national historic park dedicated to John Brown’s unsuccessful raid on the federal armory during the Civil War. It is well worth your time to cross the newly reopened pedestrian bridge over the Potomac River into Harpers Ferry to take in the history and grab a nice lunch at one of its many cozy eateries. The Appalachian Trail and Shenandoah River intersect the canal at this point so the townsfolk are well versed in serving sweaty travelers on foot, bike, or boat. Brunswick, too, features several nice restaurants and hotels.
Day 8: 12 miles – Brunswick, MD to Dickerson, MD
Depart Brunswick and bike 12 miles to the Monocacy River Aqueduct near Dickerson in southern Frederick County. Along the way, enjoy the Catoctin Creek Aqueduct, Bald Eagle Island (where you might spy one its famous namesake inhabitants) and Calico Rocks and Indian Flats for camping and boating. At the Monocacy River Aqueduct, bike another few miles inland to the venerable Dickerson Market for lunch or dinner. Their giant beef hot dogs are worth the visit.
Day 9: 20 miles – Dickerson, MD to Seneca Creek Aqueduct
Depart Monocacy River Aqueduct near Dickerson and travel 20 miles to Seneca Creek Aqueduct in Montgomery County. This stretch of the canal passes by Whites Ferry, which is a working, hand-operated toll ferry crossing the Potomac River to nearby Leesburg, Virginia. It is well worth the time to make this crossing and either grab a bite in Leesburg or at the Whites Ferry Tavern.
Day 10: 23 miles – Seneca Creek Aqueduct to Georgetown
Depart Seneca Creek Aqueduct and travel 10 easy miles to Angler’s Inn near ritzy Potomac in Montgomery County. The highlight of this leg is Great Falls Park, home to the white-water portion of the Potomac River, Billy Goat hiking trail, canal boat rides, and numerous scenic overlooks. Carve out some time for the Great Falls Tavern Visitor Center, which explores more history of the canal and local area. Don’t miss lunch at the charming Old Angler’s Inn just off the trail. Try their gourmet burger on their beautiful patio.
After lunch, continue on another 13 miles to mile marker 0 in Georgetown. This scenic and urbanized stretch features camping and boating at Carderock, the Clara Barton National Historic Site, charming Glen Echo Park and Fletcher’s Boathouse. Have dinner at Il Canale along the canal on 31st Street in DC. Finish your adventure with pictures and high fives at the Georgetown Visitor Center.
