By Gary Bennett
The charming little town of Hancock, in far western Washington County, is small but well worth a visit. It is a popular rest stop for motorists heading toward I-68 and points west or the Pennsylvania Turnpike and points north. But make no mistake: You can easily spend a delightful day in Hancock, especially if you are a hiker, biker or, most importantly, a pie aficionado. More on that later.
Hancock has about 1,500 residents, roughly 3 square miles of area and one main drag through town. It is geographically unique, sitting at Maryland’s narrowest point. Less than 2 miles separate the Pennsylvania and West Virginia borders there, creating a place on the map where you could seemingly pinch off Maryland and hand it over to West Virginia. Just west of town, Sideling Hill offers sweeping views of the surrounding ridges and valleys.
Hancock is one of the oldest settlements in Western Maryland. Settlers began putting down roots in the area in the 1730s, and the community was once known as William’s Town. The name Hancock derives from Edward Joseph Hancock Jr., whose family operated a ferry across the Potomac River. Hancock fought alongside George Washington during the Revolutionary War.
The town also has Civil War history. In January 1862, Confederate Maj. Gen. Thomas J. “Stonewall” Jackson demanded Hancock’s surrender. Union Brig. Gen. Frederick W. Lander refused, Jackson’s artillery shelled the town and the Confederate force eventually withdrew after an inconclusive action amid brutal winter weather.
Hancock has been designated Maryland’s official Trail Town. It offers easy access to the rustic C&O Canal Towpath, which parallels the Potomac River, and the paved Western Maryland Rail Trail. With restaurants and shops beckoning just steps from both trails, Hancock is a favorite stop for cyclists and hikers.
Hancock is about an hour west of Frederick via I-70. It makes an excellent day trip, but visitors who would rather stay overnight can find small hotels and the 1878 RiverRun Bed & Breakfast.
There is no missing Hancock as you travel west on I-70. On the eastern outskirts of town, motorists are greeted by one of the largest American flags I’ve ever seen. It waves majestically over the Blue Goose Market and Bakery. Be ready, though: The westbound exit into town is on the left.
Housing in Hancock remains comparatively affordable. Recent Census Bureau estimates place the median value of owner-occupied homes at about $190,900. The town also has a sizable retirement-age population: About 22% of its residents were 65 or older in the 2020 census.
BLUE GOOSE MARKET AND BAKERY
If you’ve never visited the Blue Goose Market and Bakery, you are in for a treat, and I mean that literally. This place is a snacker’s and browser’s paradise. It features more than 30 flavors of gorgeously displayed gourmet pies, many taking advantage of local fruit. If calories don’t count in heaven, I’m going to find a way to get a weekly fix of those freshly baked pies and cookies.
In 2011, a modern building replaced the old barn-style store known as Hepburn’s Orchards. The larger store preserved the fresh produce and baked goods while adding an extensive gift shop with Southern flair. It sells everything from custom floral arrangements and clothing to jewelry and home decor.
You can easily spend a few hours browsing the merchandise, laughing at the snarky T-shirt and sweatshirt sayings — “And despite the look on my face, you’re still talking” — and snacking on fresh pie, gourmet foods and candies, Amish fudge, honey, cider, local wines and jams.
The Blue Goose draws on the area’s apple- and peach-growing tradition to make some of the freshest, tastiest pies you will ever eat. Although the orchard industry is smaller than it once was, Hancock became known during its fruit-growing heyday as the “Fruit Basket of the Nation.”
For my wife and me, stopping here to pick up cookies for the road ahead has become a tradition.
BUDDY LOU’S EATS, DRINKS AND ANTIQUES
Another can’t-miss stop is Buddy Lou’s Eats, Drinks and Antiques. The name says it all. Stop for lunch or dinner, then spend time perusing its collection of antiques and work by local artisans. Be prepared to stay awhile. No one is going to rush you. Patrons arrive by foot, car, boat or bike and are treated like family by the friendly staff.
Located at 11 E. Main St., Hancock, and just steps from the C&O Canal Towpath, Buddy Lou’s is a special place. It stands three stories high, with an open-air lower level and a sprawling, inviting patio. It somehow mixes past and present in a pleasing blend of casual charm. The walls are covered with memorabilia that keeps the eyes moving and engaged. The restaurant has a distinct country vibe, but the menu is unquestionably upscale.
Current menu choices include mushroom nuggets made with lion’s mane mushrooms, smoked pork nachos, a fried bologna sandwich, a crab cake sandwich and Buddy Lou’s pork belly BLT. Dinner selections include crab cakes, beer-can roasted chicken, pan-seared Atlantic salmon and rib-eye steak. Sandwiches are served with fresh-cut fries.
Just don’t ask to speak to Buddy Lou. You can pet her namesakes, though. Owner Diane Smith said the restaurant’s name combines the names of her dogs, Buddy and Lucy. “We wanted others to love our dogs like we do.”
C&O CANAL VISITOR CENTER
Several visitor centers interpret the history of the 184.5-mile C&O Canal corridor between Georgetown and Cumberland. Hancock’s visitor center, housed in the historic Bowles House, is one of the most interesting.
Located at 439 E. Main St., Hancock, the two-story brick house overlooks the Potomac River and C&O Canal near Lock 52 and the Tonoloway Aqueduct. The Bowles family occupied the house during the canal’s working years. Today, it illustrates life along the canal and in the neighboring village.
The exhibits tell the story of Hancock’s transformation from a modest colonial river crossing into a bustling commercial gateway. The arrival of the orchards, C&O Canal, Western Maryland Railway and National Road is depicted through illustrations and historical displays.
SIDELING HILL CUT
No trip to the Hancock area would be complete without a visit to the aptly named Sideling Hill Cut. Just a few miles west of town, the striking cut into the ridge was created by highway engineers during construction of I-68 in the early 1980s.
Blasting through the ridge exposed an approximately 800-foot cross section of folded rock layers formed hundreds of millions of years ago. The visible bands of sandstone, shale and thin coal seams are mesmerizing.
The site’s original geology exhibit center has closed, but the rest area, parking, walkways and pedestrian bridge remain. Visitors can climb the stairs to the bridge and overlook for a closer view of the exposed rock layers and the surrounding ridges.
If you go in winter, you may also be treated to some of the largest icicles hanging from a mountainside that you have ever seen.
WESTERN MARYLAND RAIL TRAIL
The paved and well-maintained Western Maryland Rail Trail extends 28 miles from Fort Frederick State Park in Washington County to Little Orleans in Allegany County, passing through Hancock along the way. The flat, smooth trail follows the former right of way of the Western Maryland Railway and parallels the Potomac River and C&O Canal.
If traversing the unpaved and sometimes wet or rocky C&O Canal Towpath seems daunting, the rail trail is for you. Spectacular river views, preserved canal structures and wooded stretches all beckon within a mile or so of civilization.
Be prepared to share the trail with families with small children, inline skaters, walkers and joggers. That’s a small price to pay for such a delightful ride. Also, watch for wildlife, particularly turkeys, snakes, deer and occasionally black bears.
If peaceful but eclectic Hancock and its nearby attractions don’t delight you — which I can’t imagine — you can retreat to Fort Frederick State Park or Cacapon Resort State Park for camping, fishing and hiking, or to Berkeley Springs, West Virginia, for an artsy, laid-back atmosphere.
Gary Bennett is a longtime Frederick resident who spends his time hiking, biking, volunteering and providing childcare for grandchildren. He is married and retired from his career as a nonprofit marketing executive.